Arp headstud question??
Arp headstud question??
I was hoping anyone that did this could post some tips on how they did it. Cause I have heard some ppl left the head on and did one by one, If you did plz post how. Any tips would be appreciated and I am sure many other ppl will find this information valuable. I have done some searchs and could not find any info.
Thxs in advance,
Dan
Thxs in advance,
Dan
I wouldn't do each bolt individually with the head on, no. The head gasket requires an even application of pressure across its surface. The heads and block themselves will warp if the torque is applied unevenly.
Because of this, i would suggest doing it the "tried and true" way. Take the head off, inspect everything, and put it together carefully.
If you were replacing say valve cover bolts with studs, naw, then it's not a big deal. But the head keeps the explosion inside. Don't muck with the "way".
ferb!
Because of this, i would suggest doing it the "tried and true" way. Take the head off, inspect everything, and put it together carefully.
If you were replacing say valve cover bolts with studs, naw, then it's not a big deal. But the head keeps the explosion inside. Don't muck with the "way".
ferb!
I had talked to my freind who is a 4g63 mechanic and told me that method would work fine. He has built a few sweet *** engines. So i think I will try it like that. He said just as long as you follow the bolt pattern specified by mitus it would be good to do it this way. Have you done this before Ferb?
AMS is doing the one by one method using the proper torque sequence, as well as many individuals. I think it was Evo Dave, or Evo Dad that posted his experience doing this by only removing the valve cover... He said he didn't have to remove the cams. I have yet to try it myself, but I don't remember the manual calling for a two stage torque sequence. I'll try it on my own car and post the results when I get around to it... If I screw it up, shame on me, or you.
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Originally posted by Zeus
AMS is doing the one by one method using the proper torque sequence, as well as many individuals. I think it was Evo Dave, or Evo Dad that posted his experience doing this by only removing the valve cover... He said he didn't have to remove the cams. I have yet to try it myself, but I don't remember the manual calling for a two stage torque sequence. I'll try it on my own car and post the results when I get around to it... If I screw it up, shame on me, or you.
AMS is doing the one by one method using the proper torque sequence, as well as many individuals. I think it was Evo Dave, or Evo Dad that posted his experience doing this by only removing the valve cover... He said he didn't have to remove the cams. I have yet to try it myself, but I don't remember the manual calling for a two stage torque sequence. I'll try it on my own car and post the results when I get around to it... If I screw it up, shame on me, or you.
The reason that the manual doesn't call for the torque sequence is that they don't make those studs. We have spoken with the techs at ARP and they have recommended to us the 2 step sequence.
-kris
Originally posted by boiwunder
The reason that the manual doesn't call for the torque sequence is that they don't make those studs. We ave spoken with the techs at ARP and they have recommended to us the 2 step sequence.
-kris
The reason that the manual doesn't call for the torque sequence is that they don't make those studs. We ave spoken with the techs at ARP and they have recommended to us the 2 step sequence.
-kris
So are you no longer doing the head studs with the head on? I have not heard of any head gasket failures while using the "one at a time method", however, I'd be very interested (as all should be) if there have been any reported...
here is the link to the how to by me.Yes you can do it one by one as no head warping will occur.Just please use the "SEARCH" button once and a while,thanks,here's the link https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=75639




