If You have or use to own an Evo with the 6sp and acd and have clutch problems or transfer case problems please post here and if you haven't please go on about the the car adn how you drive it or baby it. I am trying to see if holding out for the possiblity of a MR with acd and 6sp will be having the same sorta clutch and canter diff problems that some are having on this board.



BTW I searched about 5 times for any news on this topic.

 

Sti and Evo have been in Hong Kong for long time, people knows how to drive it properly here. I had many stick shift in the past 15 years but the E7 was my first Jap Awd turbo car. In the first month, there's always a burnt smell everywhere I go, until other Evo owners pointed out to me what I was doing wrong. I have 10,000km on my second clutch now, driving it properly and it's still like new.
I have never heard any complaint about the transfer case here.
The most common problem here is ACD/AYC related.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. about this subject.

 

Although I don't own a 8 jap spec, I do have a 7 jdm with ayc, acd. I am in contact with some folks that own the 8 gsr down here.

The only transfer case failures have been due to drag racing... with higher WHPs... along with rear diff failure due to such.

No reports of syncho problems with the 8 yet (but these cars are low mileage here) ... this has happend to two 7s that i know of.

The MR is not going to make any difference to the centre diff/clutch issues...... these are due to abuse . And to make it worse, you will have a whole new issue to worry about if you intend to drag race.......

A FRAGILE REAR DIFF.

 

unfortunately you are right on that one... all these people claim to know how to drive stick but if they are burning these clutch in 10k miles, they arent doing it right. i mean if the clutch goes in 5k, its possible flaw but 10k+.. i dont think so.

 

The Rear LSD in the USDM Evo is the same one from the Evo 7/8 RS ... a very strong unit. The (S)AYC rear diff's casing & pinion gears are weak in comparison.....

400+ whp with standing starts will f it up!

The US market has not seen the full meaning of driveline issues yet, wait till the active diffs cars get there....... mark my words

 

The Evo is not designed for drag racing, I am surprised to see it becoming a drag car in the U.S.
Many people in Hong Kong would go back to the OEM clutch, it is good enough for up to 300whp, easier to drive in city traffic and last a long time.

 

Still on the stock clutch .. same one the car came with.... 24,000KMs..... and it grabs a few cms (2-3) from the floor.

 

so what is the "correct" way to drive the awd turbo.

 

launching or downshifting, just don't slip at all.

 

what do you mean by "just don't slip at all." Just on launching? that would surely shatter something. Maybe I'm misinformed.

 

don't try to slip the OEM clutch when you launch. if you have to drag race your car, dump the clutch at hi rpm and let the wheel spin dampen the shock.
shifting should also be quick, don't feather every gear shift. If you rev match, you can dump the clutch and the shift will still be smooth.
In the Best Motoring video, the professional drivers use the clutch like an on/off switch. They can downshift from 5-4, 4-3, 3-2 in a second.

 

i think i'd rather burn up a clutch than change a diff or anything on an awd drivetrain

 

speack to some of the guys at http://www.lancerregister.com. People overhere have had many problems with the weak rear diffs and many go for the stronger RS set up.

 

The Evo is not designed for drag race in the first place. But the drivetrain is more than enough to withstand a few hi rev dump. The OEM clutch do slip for a fraction but that could be a good thing because the shock is dampended. Any drag race will greatly shorten the clutch life no matter what technique you use.