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Standalone, piggyback? Which one is best?

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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 05:38 PM
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Standalone, piggyback? Which one is best?

What should I do? Aem standalone, xede, utec, etc. Which one is the most rewarding with safety for every day driveability? Also, which one is undetectable and best bang for the buck? Possibly even ebc, and fuel control only, but with the others listed above I can get it all especially standalone. Friends with the utecs for the wrx seem to loose there map over time and have to get retuned. Give some intel people who have knowledge in this area.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 06:17 PM
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First question, what do you want to do with your car? How much horsepower? Drag, auto-x, or track days. You really need to know where you want to end up before you begin your journey.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 06:24 PM
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I am looking for a low 12 sec. car that is quick around town also. I am just your average every day driver who likes driving fast. Possibly driving some track time some day. I have an intake and cat back exhaust waiting for the dp and will probably add some hks camshafts. With those mods alone, I know I just need good tuning. But hands down reliability is most important to me.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 06:41 PM
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Hearing that I would reccomend something like the Dynoflash/Buschur ECU reflash. A standalone isnt a great solution for a 12 sec car. Its much better for a street/strip car with intentions of low 11s/high 10s.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 06:51 PM
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yeah, and keep in mind the amount of tuning that the piggyback or stand alone will cost you.

most tuners charge a good amount for tuning an AEM EMS
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 06:53 PM
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A stand alone is a lot of work up front, and a lot of maintenance once it's in. If you only want to run low 12's, the Buschur stage 3 will get you there cheaply. It utilizes an ECU re-flash which is no maintenance.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 07:02 PM
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My only problem with the reflash theory is that most cars whether they know it or not run lean and fight detonation. But trust me I think the reflash thing is great, I mean they are tuned for your specific cars. But I'm just about sure that I need the camshafts to run low 12's anyways.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 07:15 PM
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UTEC!! Its the best. Its more cost effective and you get everything you need, and even as far as an accurate a/f monitor. 1600 bucks and you're there. If you can read a laptop screen and determine what the adjustments should be, you're there. Good for a lot of things, and no problems like a standalone.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 07:24 PM
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But you don't need $1600 worth of fuel management to run low 12's.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 08:13 PM
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True. Its a bundle, but definitely a good unit.
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Old Apr 30, 2004 | 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by feldguy
True. Its a bundle, but definitely a good unit.
Better than an AEM? No not close. And its more?
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Old May 1, 2004 | 11:06 AM
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I would either get a flash (simple, efficent and cheap) or just go all the way and get the AEM( if you are planning for big power). No gray area in between. Why would anyone want to spend over a grand for a piggybag? I really don't understand.
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Old May 1, 2004 | 11:30 AM
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So far you have different components installed in your car, which is not bad. I did that with my old WRX and told myself I would never again put parts together to make my car faster. It will work, but you will have to go to a good tuner to make your car run right. With some tuners, you intake might already be a waste of money for your car and with others it may not. I found it easier to buy staged systems from one shop and just stick to thier upgrades. This way I have the choice to either get mail order parts which will work great, or take the a road trip to visit the tuner and slap my ride on the dyno.

Running 12's is easy money in an Evo. All you will need is a reflash or some type or piggyback on your car. Go with where you live and research on what products will be best for you and your Evo...

My 2cents...
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Old May 1, 2004 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Tracer
I am looking for a low 12 sec. car that is quick around town also. I am just your average every day driver who likes driving fast. Possibly driving some track time some day. I have an intake and cat back exhaust waiting for the dp and will probably add some hks camshafts. With those mods alone, I know I just need good tuning. But hands down reliability is most important to me.
I think that it all depends in what EVO you have and how well you drive (or how hard you are willing to to abuse your car). According to some people in these forums you can run in the 12's with a stock evo..... That's not my experience. My EVO with a 3" catback and K&N drop in filter ran 14's @ 97-98 mph.....
According to what folks post, I guess if you have a fast EVO and can drive it to it's maximum, you can probably get the 12's you want with the mods you have already. I have gotten a 13 flat at 105 mph with a conservative launch. I suppose if I'd launched more aggressively I could have been in the 12.7 @ 107 mph, but I also have intake, turboback, pump, injectors, cams, cam gears, fuel rail and AEM EMS..... Oh yeah, all you flamers save your napalm, I know that with all the mods I have you'll be running in the 10's

If you want ultimate reliability and best performance at the same time, you must keep your car stock and learn to drive it at it's maximum potential. Regardless of what anybody will say, there is no panacea for achieving your goals. Every type of stand alone, piggy-back, or reflash has it's drawbacks. To some ppl these drawbacks are practically insignificant, but to others they are unbearable hassles. You got to ask yourself where you fit in.
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Old May 1, 2004 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rdrkt
Better than an AEM? No not close. And its more?
Im not quite following? I said that its the best. its the easiest to use, and the AEM is more expensive. Other than the AEM, standalones are finicky and hard to set up, from what I've come to gather from people who have them. The UTEC, while pricey, has everything someone would need, even more. I dont see how that is argueable.
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