Hey yesterday i installed a stainless braided clutch line as well as removing the clutch restrictor plate. After i was finished i noticed 3rd geard slipped just for a second when i floored it. By the way my clutch was just fine before the install. Then i took it to the track. I wasnt getting the times i was supposed to. On my way back from the drag strip i noticed the clutch was slipping in every gear. Even at light throttle. But not contiously. FOr instance in 5th gear at fist if i gave it 50% throttle it would slip for about 1000 rpm then lock up and not slip untill the next time i left off the gas and pressed the gas again. Im guessing its because i did not bleed the system correctly and there are air bubbles remaining. i got home at 2am so i had no time to re-bleed the system.

Ill do that today.

But do u guys think my clutch is dead or i just screwed up the bleed?

 

First re-bleed the clutch completely. Trapped air shouldn't keep the clutch from engaging properly, but could prevent it from disengaging completely while you were shifting. The extra drag while shifting could wear or glaze your clutch.

Was the Clutch Restrictor Plate you removed located inside the bottom of the slave cylinder? A tiny piece on the end of a spring?

I hope re-bleeding clears this up for you.

 

i hope so too. yes the restrictor was a black piece of plastic with a spring attached to it. Im sure i took the right thing out. Was i supposed to take anything else out? I would think i finally friend my clutch but it was working before i did this so im thinking its not. Could it possibly be related to the braided clutch line? I got in my friends who who also did this but his clutch pedal felt toatally different than mine. It was lighter to push down and had more force comming back up, the engaging point was also higher, but he has the stock clutch just like me. Any ideas?

 

Re-bleed the system. Did you use the nut on top to bleed it or on the bottom. If you used the one on the bottom, use the one on top. Hope that helps.

 

i used the one on the top. I bled the system again but it is still slipping. Could it have anything to do with me not using the factory clips to hold the new stainless steel line in place? Or could it be that i might not have tightened the hardline to the stainless line enough?

 

If your clutch feel is completely off there is probably someting wrong somewhere. does the car sound normal while you drive and shift? Is the idle where it should be when you have it stopped in first and the clutch pushed in?

 

ya everything seems normal. But if i press the gas even lightly it will slip for a second then grip.

 

but again, a friend of mine who had this done has a different feeling clutch. even though he also has the stock clutch. Can it be cuz my fluid is slightly above the maximum line on the reseviour? Also, i noticed that where the stainless line connects to the banjo bolt behind the strut tower, the line is pointing toward the firewall and is bent back towards the front of the car.

 

ok i completely went over my install and nothing could possibly be wrong with it. I havnt tested it yet because im taking a icecreame break. But just incase its still not working. Is it possible that my clutch is "GLAZED" and if so, is that only temporary? If i keep driving it will it get better? Anyone got any possibilities?

 

air in the system won't make it slip. restriction in the line would after the install, like a overly bent line

 

i tried straightening out the new line but it didnt work. I guess tomorrow ill take the part thats connected to the hardline off, straighten out the line, and put it back. If that dont work. I dunno what the hell to do. If that doesnt work ill put the stock line back in, if that doesnt work ill take it to mitsu and say fix it *****.

 

Try parking next to a curb and turning the tire towards the curb until it's touching. Now, engage the clutch in 2nd gear just enough to load up the clutch a bit. That should clean up the plate if it's just glazed.

If not, buy a new clutch and install it.

 

tried it, ill test it to see if it works after the clutch cools down.

 

sorry to tell you that you can only get rid of a glazed flywheel is re-surfacing it. loading up the clutch would overheat the unit making it worse. They work like brakes, overheating a brake rotor would need resurfacing.

did you use brake fluid to refill it? is it contaminated? if you are using shi**y brake fluid, it could overheat the fluid causing it to expand and thereby pushing the rod forward dis-engaging your clutch slightly. this happened on my Starion. drove me nuts trying to figure it out.

 

the clutch line can be a real biatch to bleed sometimes. I have found that air can get trapped between the master cylinder reservoir and the clutch master cylinder. There is a black rubber line that joins both, try squeezing the line with a pair of pliers ( just squeeze the line, dont gouge it) . This squeezing usually will remove any air pockets in between both cylinders. Always, ALWAYS keep the master reservoir topped of when bleeding the clutch lines. Good luck!

Gil-superz