Is my clutch dead?
i dont have the rubber hose installed anymore i put on a stainless steel braided clutch line. I used expensive valvoline brake fluid rated at over 500 degrees. I didnt see any air bubbles at all when finished bleeding it.
I tried the whole 2nd gear let off the clutch thing to fix the glazing if any, it didnt work. Maybe my clutch is dead. But still not sure.
I tried the whole 2nd gear let off the clutch thing to fix the glazing if any, it didnt work. Maybe my clutch is dead. But still not sure.
i dont have the rubber hose installed anymore i put on a stainless steel braided clutch line. I used expensive valvoline brake fluid rated at over 500 degrees. I didnt see any air bubbles at all when finished bleeding it.
I tried the whole 2nd gear let off the clutch thing to fix the glazing if any, it didnt work. Maybe my clutch is dead. But still not sure.
I tried the whole 2nd gear let off the clutch thing to fix the glazing if any, it didnt work. Maybe my clutch is dead. But still not sure.
Originally Posted by XRS-Lift
Also, i noticed that where the stainless line connects to the banjo bolt behind the strut tower, the line is pointing toward the firewall and is bent back towards the front of the car.
Ideally, the line should slope gently down from the resivoir to the clutch salve cylinder. More questions: Did the new line come with its own hardware, or did you need to resuse the banjo bolt? Did you look to make sure the banjo bolt and end fitting had some space to flow brake fluid? Is there any chance an end fitting or the line was pinched or damaged durring the install?
There was a thread that talked about visually checking the throw-out bearing without pulling everything apart. That was why I asked you about how the car sounded. You may want to dig up that thread and take a look there also.
Originally Posted by erioshi
Your problem could be in this area. If your line extends above your resivoir at any point, you may have problems getting the line to bleed correctly. Also if your line is kinked or bent too tightly at any point, it could be restricing the flow of fluid.
Ideally, the line should slope gently down from the resivoir to the clutch salve cylinder. More questions: Did the new line come with its own hardware, or did you need to resuse the banjo bolt? Did you look to make sure the banjo bolt and end fitting had some space to flow brake fluid? Is there any chance an end fitting or the line was pinched or damaged durring the install?
There was a thread that talked about visually checking the throw-out bearing without pulling everything apart. That was why I asked you about how the car sounded. You may want to dig up that thread and take a look there also.
Ideally, the line should slope gently down from the resivoir to the clutch salve cylinder. More questions: Did the new line come with its own hardware, or did you need to resuse the banjo bolt? Did you look to make sure the banjo bolt and end fitting had some space to flow brake fluid? Is there any chance an end fitting or the line was pinched or damaged durring the install?
There was a thread that talked about visually checking the throw-out bearing without pulling everything apart. That was why I asked you about how the car sounded. You may want to dig up that thread and take a look there also.
the line came with its own banjo bolt. But i used the factory one. Could it be that the factory banjo bolt does not line up with the new line properly resitricting the flow of fluid causing the clutch to slip?
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