Did this codfe appear before or after your flash?

 

If you unplugged TPS (throttle position sensor) with the key in the "on" position then this DTC would have been set,or you may have a bad TPS.clear the SES light by pulling both fuses in your under hood fuse block(the 15a and 20a fuses that have the picture of an engine),this will clear the DTC.BTW,you must reinstall them if you plan on starting vehicle back up.See if DTC returns.The p0420 dtc will take 2 "drive" cycles to reset,but the TPS code will reappear almost right away if there is a fault with it.Hope this helps

 

I had this CEL way before the Flaash... before I put my intake on I think (I never checked what the code was back then, but I still had it.)

 

thanks for the info... I will try that

 

Actually, I've noticed codes that don't trigger CELs just lurk around till you pull them.. and you can't always clear codes by disconnecting power, I've tried it before..

However, the code I get every so often is the one for the idle mixture lean.. happened ever since I installed the new MAF pipe.. I clear it, and it goes for days, but if I get one of those "move, clutch, brake, almost stall" symptoms, the code comes back, so I know what that is..

Now.. I suspect the TPS Code has been lurking, since your TPS sensor appears to be working correctly, its likely the code was in the ECU, and you got a CEL due to your other code (new intercooler pipes.. lowered air velocity, maf pipe.. etc..) but now you see them both..

In order to tell for sure, you'd need to clear them and wait for them to come back.. and I mean clear them correctly, not do an ECU power reset..

Any chance you'll be out on Long Island any time soon? I can pull the codes, clear them, and test your TPS sensor to make sure its in spec..

 

Oooh.. and the simple answer is likely even lower airflow.. If you only had the Typhoon, there's always that chance you didn't have any issue simply because your air velocity through the sensor was adequate.. by adding the intercooler pipes, you may have slowed the velocity slightly due to the increased volume.. (bigger pipes means more volume with less velocity for the same quantity..) and might not be generating the same level of negative pressure to draw air through the sensor at idle..

 

MalibuJack, So basically a induction pipe will do more harm than gain if running a stock MAF? I had the stalling issue with the induction pipe, and after I swap the stock rubber back, no more stalling. Do one need a reflash because of swapping the stock rubber hose back in?

BTW, Did you pass by NewBridge rd Bellmore around 6ish today? Saw a black Evo with painted taillights.

 

Not me.. I'm in that area alot, but I don't have painted tails and wasn't in the area today..

The stalling isn't the worst thing in the world if it only happens rarely.. But if you have the car flashed, and then return it to the stock accordian pipe, you will find the car runs a little rich from 1500-4500rpm.. since tuning would have tuned for the idiosycrasies in that pipe.. So the short answer is its not necesary, but is recommended if you want the best performance.

 

Jakc if you come to one of our events you would actually meet Joel. Im sure youve read the BBQ post for the following Sat. Hope to see u there. Plus its closer to LI so no excuses!!!

 

hehe.. ok, I'll try to make it out this time.. I like being the phantom motorgeek.. But I want to at least see him get his car running right ASAP..

 

TRY???? Dont try....cause that means NO!

 

yea Jack, come out and meet us.. even if you dont help me out.. I would still love to meet you ... and use ur help also

- Joel

 

MalibuJack,i have the means to clear dtc's as well as just pulling the ecu fuses and have never once not been able to clear a dtc by pulling the ecu fuses.The dtc's that you speak of are of the "2 trip logic"varity,which means that they will not set the ses light if tripped on one drive cycle as to not alarm driver that something is wrong.The tps will set on the 1st drive cycle that it sees a failure,as it is an important part of the efi system as far as
feed back to ecu.I would be very curious as to see if the dtc for the tps that yellow fever has came back or not as to see if it was caused by a failure or not.The ancient mitsu ecm and programs are only second to toyota as far as outdated.How many cars these days that are being produced even go into "open loop" at WOT anymore?,not that may .

 

Well, I've disconnected the ECU on my car and have had DTC's persist until their cleared by the scantool, but thats not important.. I also would like to see which codes if any came back after resetting the ECU...

And honestly, many of the cars I've worked on still do use open loop.. OBD-III cars are entirely closed loop from my understanding though..

Anyway.. the problem was likely a loose connection or a one time thing if your running ok otherwise.. but we'd all like to see if it comes back.

 

My car always has teh check engien Light on, ohh well.