I, along with some other members were having a problem with the fuel gauge. I took the car to the dealer and they could not find anything wrong with the sender or wiring. I am trying to collect info and what mods, circumstances, and if applicable, any solutions to this problem. The problem is: The fuel needle does not return to 4/4 after filling the tank. Highest it will climb to is ~7/8. MPG suck. Here are 2 threads which previously discussed the issue.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...y+fuel+problem

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...297#post945297

If anyone knows what's wrong, or how to fix it, please chime in. Some subbies are also having this problem. Perhaps if we can collect enough info we can find a consistant pattern and perhaps fix the problem. Thanks in advance for your help.

 

bump

 

This happened here which is only a few hours from NC>
http://www.thelouisvillechannel.com/...81/detail.html
even happened in Florida
http://www.thelouisvillechannel.com/...60/detail.html

You should talk to one of the gas stations to have it fixed, not the dealer.

 

My fuel needle sometimes doesn't go up when my tank has around 3/4 gas in there. It only goes up a little below 1/4 when I just start the car, but after I drive awhile it goes up. Weird.

 

Mine will go up to 3/4 full and then slowly reach just above the full line.

Sometimes however it just goes all the way up, glad to know im not alone.

 

That's interesting but it's not quite the same problem I'm having. Almost the exact opposite. My gas needle does not rise all the way to full. It only gets up to about 7/8. And it moves around inconsistantly. I will say 4/8 full while I'm driving somewhere. Then when I get back in the car to leave it will read 5/8 full. It's weird. The tech said the sender and everything in the tank looks fine. There are no faulty parts or anything. He said since the needle position is determined by a voltage, there may be a wire too close to the fuel needle wire that's screwing with the voltage reading. Sounds like it makes sense, maybe? Anyway, if anyone else is having this problem, please list mods, or circumstances when it started happening, or when it happens.

I have:
HKS EVC V
GReddy E-manage
GReddy Type-S
B&B TB with Cat Delete
HKS RS Intake
Buschur FMIC w/ piping
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Battery Relocated to trunk
HKS Type-1 TT

Problem just sprang up out of nowhere. C'mon guys, I really want to figure this out. I'm getting really terrible gas mileage because of it. PLEASE HELP

 

bump for a new day

 

I chaulk it up to cheap mitsu part number "who knows".

I just wait for the gas light and then go to nearest station off boost. It's that simple

 

Bit of a bump for this problem (did anyone find a fix yet? I searched but came up empty). I have a similar thing happening:

1. Fuel light comes on
2. Fill car until pump automatically shuts off (usually about 10.5 - 11 gallons)
3. Fuel gauge rises to around 7/8 of full

It seems to be a bit variable as far as fuel level reading when it's above the halfway mark, but after that no problem - and that also may be to do with the angle of the car. I'll pay more attention from now on.

I was actually thinking it was a problem with the filler neck or something, not the gauge. But I guess it makes more sense that the gauge is reading low.

So I think what is happening is that when the light comes on, there is actually still two or three gallons of gas left in the tank; it seems like your cruising range has been cut down to 180-190 miles (and MPG down to, what, 13 or 14?), but actually it's just the gauge. The MPG stays the same, and you could probably get the same range out of the car, but who wants to drive around for 40 miles with the gas light on?

Contributing factors? Could be electrical maybe - I've had a TT in my car for ages so it isn't that, but I did install a new stereo at about the same time this started to happen. I did a proper job, all insulated, no exposed wires or hack jobs, but I'll try pulling it and see if it makes a difference. Who knows. I'll try a few other things too.

Other than that, I can't think of anything that might have caused it to start acting up, but it's nice to know I'm not the only one with the 'issue'...

edit: forgot to mention - I have a stock fuel pump and haven't modified the fuel system in any way.

 

It could be a grounding issue. Check to make sure your stereo has a consistant ground with the rest of the electrical system.

 

If I top it off mine will go to the full line exactly but no farther. Stock fuel pump, stereo and Hks grounding system.

 

I've topped it off to the very top and it goes to the very higest point with no problems. How many miles do you guys have on your car? (those who are having problems)?

 

TearItUp: Thanks for the response. I had the same thought. My stereo is actually grounded to the same point as a lot of other wires (the gold bolt under the dash on the driver's side) but I was gonna move it anyway - the new stereo has very poor AM reception and more CD seek noise than it should, so I guess it needs a better (or different) ground. The OEM one was fine in that respect.

I did put in a home-made 'hyper ground' for kicks, but that was ages ago. Just the usual, fat wires arranged in the same way as the $200 Mitsu one.

Rino: 20.5k miles on mine. It's a very early model.

 

If you have a voltmeter with long leads, check the voltage between the ground by the battery and the one where the radio is at. It should be 0V. Also see if you can find the ground where the gauge cluster is and test that vs both the stereo and the battery. You may need the shop manual to find the correct ground location for that though.

You could also have some corrosion under the stereo ground bolt, or improper connection to the car frame. I would recommend you remove it, and clean up the surface under it with some sand paper, then put a layer of electric grease (to prevent further corrosion) under it and reinstall everything. Make sure all the wires there have good contact with each other and the frame too. Sometimes when there are two or more wires on a single bolt, they dont clamp against each other well.

 

it's that or you have a faulty rear air sensor?

you do know how the fuel system on evo works right?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-gauge.htm

hmm today's topic is "how turbo works". Interesting.



It's that or your real air sensor that's not working properly. don't ask me why the air sensor, because I don't know. But this happened to me before, where the fuel gauge wouldn't read properly and it would take a long time to go up to full.

The dealer told me it was the sending unit and also the rear air sensor, on a stock car. Not evo tho.