Thought stock was ok, have exedy twin..
Thought stock was ok, have exedy twin..
Just swapped my stock clutch for the exedy twin disk. the stocker still felt ok, but when we got it out of there it was about 1mm from the screws! it would have gone soon (5200 miles on the clock)
When they changed the clutch line the bleeding didn't go so well.
The clutch is definately grippy and it is very streetable. chaters at idle whith clutch depressed, but still quieter than a stock 350z clutch. RPM's and pedal have to be just right to get it into first. I'm going to take it back in tommorrow.
Dealer gave me the whole blah blah about the clutch is the weak link to protect the drive train. Can someone please enlighten me:
1) a clutch produces no horsepower, powere transfer difference is negligible
2) stock clutch doesn't blow like a fuse therefore the only thing it protects is someones clutch swapping job.
3) yeah, I know it grabs blah blah blah, but isn't the intensity of the grabbing regulated buy how hard I lift my foot? A stock clutch grabs pretty damn good for the first few times...
My thought is a transfer case could be destroyed in the same manner with 5 stock clutches as one exedy twin plate. Probably similar mileage... Any thought from someone with experience would be appreciated...
When they changed the clutch line the bleeding didn't go so well.
The clutch is definately grippy and it is very streetable. chaters at idle whith clutch depressed, but still quieter than a stock 350z clutch. RPM's and pedal have to be just right to get it into first. I'm going to take it back in tommorrow.
Dealer gave me the whole blah blah about the clutch is the weak link to protect the drive train. Can someone please enlighten me:1) a clutch produces no horsepower, powere transfer difference is negligible
2) stock clutch doesn't blow like a fuse therefore the only thing it protects is someones clutch swapping job.
3) yeah, I know it grabs blah blah blah, but isn't the intensity of the grabbing regulated buy how hard I lift my foot? A stock clutch grabs pretty damn good for the first few times...
My thought is a transfer case could be destroyed in the same manner with 5 stock clutches as one exedy twin plate. Probably similar mileage... Any thought from someone with experience would be appreciated...
The stock clutch will slip a little when too much power is applied. The twin disk won't. Also, there is a restrictor in the clutch line that helps limit the shock to the drivetrain. If you removed that also, then I would be very careful on those 6000 rpm clutch drops.
Originally Posted by morefaster
2) stock clutch doesn't blow like a fuse therefore the only thing it protects is someones clutch swapping job.
3) yeah, I know it grabs blah blah blah, but isn't the intensity of the grabbing regulated buy how hard I lift my foot? A stock clutch grabs pretty damn good for the first few times...
3) yeah, I know it grabs blah blah blah, but isn't the intensity of the grabbing regulated buy how hard I lift my foot? A stock clutch grabs pretty damn good for the first few times...
On point 3; Your foot is the first (and primary) line of defence for the tranny. The clutch restrictor is the second. The springs in the clutch disks and the slip provided by the friction surfaces in the clutch itself are the third (and last) line of defence.
As you limit the ability of those systems to protect the drive line by installing more aggressive parts, you increase the possibility that parts can be damaged through abuse. That means your foot is now MUCH more responsible for how much abuse the transmission and differentials take.
The changes you have made can be great for performance, but you need to be aware of what those changes mean to your driveline.
Originally Posted by jj_008
The stock clutch will slip a little when too much power is applied. The twin disk won't. Also, there is a restrictor in the clutch line that helps limit the shock to the drivetrain. If you removed that also, then I would be very careful on those 6000 rpm clutch drops.
I'm getting ready to drop it off this morning. It is pretty tough to get it into gear. Once you are rolling it shifts fine, but at a stand still you have to play with the clutch and accelerator and then cram it into gear.
When I replaced my clutch and put new fluid in the tranny, it took a while for the lube to set in. It was hard to shift for a few days.
I removed the restrictor when I had the stock clutch and it felt good. I know have an Unorthodox Racing 6 puck ceramic clutch w/ their lightweight flywheel. After I installed this clutch, I ended up putting the restrictor back in. It was too aggressive when it was engaging without it. With your clutch setup, I'd probably leave it in. Just my 2 cents...
The restrictor is located in the underside of the clutch release cyclinder where the hydraulic line connects. You may need to remove the whole clutch release cylinder and poke a needle on the bleed port side to push out the restrictor. In my case, as soon as I removed the lower banjo bolt, it popped right out. I have a picture diagram I can upload. Just looking for it now... Good luck!
I removed the restrictor when I had the stock clutch and it felt good. I know have an Unorthodox Racing 6 puck ceramic clutch w/ their lightweight flywheel. After I installed this clutch, I ended up putting the restrictor back in. It was too aggressive when it was engaging without it. With your clutch setup, I'd probably leave it in. Just my 2 cents...
The restrictor is located in the underside of the clutch release cyclinder where the hydraulic line connects. You may need to remove the whole clutch release cylinder and poke a needle on the bleed port side to push out the restrictor. In my case, as soon as I removed the lower banjo bolt, it popped right out. I have a picture diagram I can upload. Just looking for it now... Good luck!
Originally Posted by eazyevo
When I replaced my clutch and put new fluid in the tranny, it took a while for the lube to set in. It was hard to shift for a few days.
I removed the restrictor when I had the stock clutch and it felt good. I know have an Unorthodox Racing 6 puck ceramic clutch w/ their lightweight flywheel. After I installed this clutch, I ended up putting the restrictor back in. It was too aggressive when it was engaging without it. With your clutch setup, I'd probably leave it in. Just my 2 cents...
The restrictor is located in the underside of the clutch release cyclinder where the hydraulic line connects. You may need to remove the whole clutch release cylinder and poke a needle on the bleed port side to push out the restrictor. In my case, as soon as I removed the lower banjo bolt, it popped right out. I have a picture diagram I can upload. Just looking for it now... Good luck!
I removed the restrictor when I had the stock clutch and it felt good. I know have an Unorthodox Racing 6 puck ceramic clutch w/ their lightweight flywheel. After I installed this clutch, I ended up putting the restrictor back in. It was too aggressive when it was engaging without it. With your clutch setup, I'd probably leave it in. Just my 2 cents...
The restrictor is located in the underside of the clutch release cyclinder where the hydraulic line connects. You may need to remove the whole clutch release cylinder and poke a needle on the bleed port side to push out the restrictor. In my case, as soon as I removed the lower banjo bolt, it popped right out. I have a picture diagram I can upload. Just looking for it now... Good luck!
Here's a website which has a good "how to" on removing the restictor.
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?techID=26
Good luck!
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?techID=26
Good luck!


