Need help with MBC Install
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From: Columbus, OH
Need help with MBC Install
So I tore my car all apart and I started to install my Turbo XS MBC. I've got 2 sets of directions here, one that came with the boost controller, and one that someone on the forums wrote up.
1. The TurboXS instructions say run the WGA to the MBC, and run the Turbo to the MBC.
2. The EVOM write-up says to run the WGA to the MBC, and plug the Turbo outlet. Then 'T' in to the line running from the BOV line to the Intake Manifold and run that line to the MBC.
My question is, how did you guys all install your MBC? Option 1., 2., or other?
Thanks!
1. The TurboXS instructions say run the WGA to the MBC, and run the Turbo to the MBC.
2. The EVOM write-up says to run the WGA to the MBC, and plug the Turbo outlet. Then 'T' in to the line running from the BOV line to the Intake Manifold and run that line to the MBC.
My question is, how did you guys all install your MBC? Option 1., 2., or other?
Thanks!
not true at all. go by the brand mbc instructions. i went against Perrins instructions cause i like pictures on evom. i followed that and tee-ed the bov and i was spiking all over the place.
so i went by the instructions and it holds perfect! my perrin mbc goes from the compressor nipple to mbc and wastegate to mbc.
so i went by the instructions and it holds perfect! my perrin mbc goes from the compressor nipple to mbc and wastegate to mbc.
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Cool, thanks for the feedback guys. I decided to go with Option1.
Although after reading into the instructions for my MBC a little further it said that Option2 is best for cars boosting 15psi or more.
I dialed in my MBC at roughly 1.4 kg/cm2, with spikes to 1.5. Which is roughly .1 kg/cm2 more than I was boosting stock. It does appear to be holding to redline a little better, however, I think my BOV might be leaking. (I have an uncrushed 1G DSM BOV.) I will swap out my BOV to stock and do some further testing. If the stock BOV is not holding to redline either, I may swap the MBC over to the Option2 install and see if I get better results.
Although after reading into the instructions for my MBC a little further it said that Option2 is best for cars boosting 15psi or more.
I dialed in my MBC at roughly 1.4 kg/cm2, with spikes to 1.5. Which is roughly .1 kg/cm2 more than I was boosting stock. It does appear to be holding to redline a little better, however, I think my BOV might be leaking. (I have an uncrushed 1G DSM BOV.) I will swap out my BOV to stock and do some further testing. If the stock BOV is not holding to redline either, I may swap the MBC over to the Option2 install and see if I get better results.
The only real difference is installing it with the compressor nipple as opposed to the T to the BOV line is your getting boost pressure BEFORE the intercooler which could spike significantly higher than what you'd find in the rest of the intake tract after the intercooler.
I had a MBC hooked up to the "Stock location" using a Hallman Ballvalve setup.. Boost would ramp quickly and hit target most of the time.. the disadvantage is you will occasionally get spiking, it used to happen to me if I downshifted from 5th to 3rd and accellerated..
hooking it up the second way reduces the spiking, but also may slow the aggressiveness of the boost curve, it spools at about the same rate, but since the boost pressure is what controls the wastegate opening its a little less aggressive in the curve..
Also keep in mind that depending on your blowoff valve, and type of boost controller, that tapping off the BOV vacuum line could result in needing a little adjustment since it may also reduce the level of boost that the BOV will force itself open with since your using the pressure in that line to control boost and the BOV... Its not a major deal and in most cases makes no difference, but it is something to keep in mind.
I had a MBC hooked up to the "Stock location" using a Hallman Ballvalve setup.. Boost would ramp quickly and hit target most of the time.. the disadvantage is you will occasionally get spiking, it used to happen to me if I downshifted from 5th to 3rd and accellerated..
hooking it up the second way reduces the spiking, but also may slow the aggressiveness of the boost curve, it spools at about the same rate, but since the boost pressure is what controls the wastegate opening its a little less aggressive in the curve..
Also keep in mind that depending on your blowoff valve, and type of boost controller, that tapping off the BOV vacuum line could result in needing a little adjustment since it may also reduce the level of boost that the BOV will force itself open with since your using the pressure in that line to control boost and the BOV... Its not a major deal and in most cases makes no difference, but it is something to keep in mind.
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Ahh, great feedback MJ. I think I will just leave it as-is then. My knuckles are still sore from yesterday.
I would rather not have to make my car look like this again, and then have to put it all back together:
I would rather not have to make my car look like this again, and then have to put it all back together:
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Option 2 is the way to go, and you don't have to do what you did above. Look under the car and there is a center plastic panel that comes out. It gives you access to the bottom of the turbo.
I installed no less than 9 MBCs in a week and this was the easiest way. Takes me about 45 minutes to complete now. PM me if you need some detailed instructions that I wrote up.
Good luck!!
I installed no less than 9 MBCs in a week and this was the easiest way. Takes me about 45 minutes to complete now. PM me if you need some detailed instructions that I wrote up.
Good luck!!
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Yeah, I noticed after I had everything removed that the install probably could have been done from below. I had never installed an MBC before so I wanted to see more of what I was doing though.
When I put everything back together, I relocated the screws and clamps to make it easier to remove next time around. I could probably do it in less than 45 minutes working from the top now.
When I put everything back together, I relocated the screws and clamps to make it easier to remove next time around. I could probably do it in less than 45 minutes working from the top now.
read this. Good pros and cons on option 1 and option 2.
go with option 2, it's better and more constant. However, compressor/turbo inlet connection gives you more accurate reading or faster reading or something like that. but it's all over the place.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=114794
go with option 2, it's better and more constant. However, compressor/turbo inlet connection gives you more accurate reading or faster reading or something like that. but it's all over the place.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=114794
hey plokivos ---
can u show me the location of mbc installed? and inside cabin contorller ]knob too>? if u dont mind?
since i have stock air box...i couldnt mount mbc on battery holder screw,...
and looking for the mounting place
can u show me the location of mbc installed? and inside cabin contorller ]knob too>? if u dont mind?
since i have stock air box...i couldnt mount mbc on battery holder screw,...
and looking for the mounting place



