Well, I left my friend at the dealership borrow my car and I took his Harley. Needless to say he got the better half of this deal. Anyway I asked them to replace some hoses they inadvertantly cut when trying to install my MDC. They had patched them with T's but I wanted them replaced.
When I got the car back today I pulled onto the highway and floored it. MY BOOST WENT TO 28 PSI!! After about 25 it felt stunted but I thought maybe I reading this wrong.
I nailed it again and sure as s**t 28 PSI!!!
I called and he swears they did nothing but replace my hoses, I might have been bleeding the extra boost, the T's weren't being held with clamps.

But I can say that this diverter valve is great! I am on my way home and am going to turn the boost down. Just thought someone might like to hear!

L8R

 

**Post Deleted** You are perfectly welcome to disagree with someone. If you are going to make a post noting that disagreement, find a respectful way to convey that message. ~SC

 

i tihnk they hooked up your boost solinoid/ boost controller backwards.... I wouldn't advise boosting thaat much psi without supporting mods even if its not holding it

 

**Post deleted** Please don't egg on the trouble makers.

 

redusevo, i need to talk to you. you are refering to jereme at westboro mitsubishi. he has told me about your car and i need some advice. i'm the one who traded the motorcycle for the black evo, anyway i have some questions about your car. thanks cory

 

Doesn't the diverter valve line apply boost to the top of the valve's diafragm?

On the VW 1.8t the DV is kept shut by manifold boost pressure, and opens by vaccum. The spring is just to clamp it shut before boost rises again and to keep it shut in the 0 vaccum 0 boost conditions.

 

Red... whats your Wastegate bypass upgrade, where did you get the MR Divert Valve, How much was it.. Where is the location of it.. Why not go with another co.?

 

Yes that is correct. For one reason or another, at a certain point any BOV will leak. That point depends on the specific design. It's normally a function of the quality of the seal rather than the spring that holds the seal. Under boost, pressure is about equal on either side of the diaphram so it stays closed until the throttle plate closes. When that happens, there is vaccum in the intake manifold (where the vaccuum line is connected to the BOV) and the difference in pressure opens the valve.

The only reason I can think to run a really stiff spring is to keep from relieving all the pressure in the system between shifts. As a side-effect, this often results in part-throttle compressor surge, but under certain extreme racing conditions maintaining a little more boost between shifts could be considered beneficial (Drag racing, rally racing). Personally, if I'm gently feathering the throttle around a highs-speed turn at the track, I'll be damned if I want my car to jerk and shudder and become unbalanced because my god damned BOV spring is too stiff. Hell I'll be damned if I want my car to jerk & shudder at all lol.

 

Okay, here's the scoop. The car was boosting as high as 30psi, no s**t. The guy in the garage that was supposed to replace the hoses he inadvertantly cut when installing my boost guage disconnected the hose from my waste gate to the boost controller. It was running unrestricted. I had them fix this the next day and have resumed my factory boost levels. The car seems to be fine, they are going to do a compression check and some other tests just in case.
By the way, once the car hits about 26psi it feels like it is no longer generating power but is losing it. I will say that running to the 26 psi is ridiculous! Very strong pull, like a motorcycle.
And for the player haters, you don't have to beleive me. My service tech and I both saw and felt it. Man am I glad I paid Mitsubishi to do my upgrades thus they warranty them

 

so will they warranty your car to install the full 3" turboback exhaust?

Do you have all your claims in regards to keeping your warranty in writing?

 

Yes, they installed my full 3" catback. In your warranty statement, it states that anything that is approved by Mitsu or an authorized rep is covered. They don't warranty the exhaust, that is the manufacturers responsiblity but they cannot blame it for engine damage as they approved the install.

 

not the smartest reason to be happy, your lucky you didnt damage the motor.

johnny

 

you see his avatar....he is trying to tell us something

 

30 PSI???

You'd better make sure you didn't stretch your head bolts!

Running boost that high just blows hot air into the engine, causing the ECU to pull timing...that's why you start to actually lose power after a certain boost level on the stock turbo.

 

wow 30 psi on pump gas, stock turbo... I can see why it felt like it was falling on its face after 20something psi, that has got to be way out of the efficiency range for that little turbo. Can't believe the motor held together.