Yeah based on the picture, yours is placed AFTER the selonoid. You can either get new hoses and put the T in before the selonoid, or live with the current condition.

If you are having real problems with it, you may also just bypass the selonoid by putting a hose directly from the manifold to the FPR, and placing your boost T in the middle. It could be a problem if the selonoid activated under high boost leaving you with 19 psi less of fuel pressure.

Here is a pic with the fuel pressure selonoid highlighted. Note the line in the pic is the one coming off the manifold. The line you have your boost gauge plummed into is the outlet of the selonoid which is located under it.

 

The line that is t-ed into in that picture is incorrect. You need to hook into the other line (the one coming out of the intake manifold and connected to the inlet on the solenoid. That solenoid stays closed in certain starting conditions to increase the fuel pressure. If you T into the line after the valve, you will read 0 boost/vac until the solenoid valve opens.

Brian

 

Like I said, mine is T'd in before the intake manifold and reads prefect.

 

I will mention it to the dealership. I think I will move the T fitting, just to be safe, but it sounds very possible that the little syllanoid would control vacuum to control the pressure going into the fuel pressure regulator. I will just check with the dealership to confirm that the no vacuum thing is a proper function. When they started the car and it did that they thought I had a fault boost gauge or something....then again they still haven;t figure out how to fix the damn thing. lol. I smell lemons!

 

also could this location have anything to do with me only reading liek 17 psi.....it gets to 19 sometimes...but very rarely. It used to get up all the way I thought

 

I presume mine is set up exactly the same way as yours, jab, and mine holds solidly all the way up...I do occasionally see the needle stay on zero for a little bit after startup (I have no idea why), but I don't have any boost problems...that Hallman MBC is tha shiznitz!

 

Mine is set up the same way as saintjab and NOVA EVO, no issues at all.

 

I've heard if you cut in BEFORE the selonoid, you often won't get any boost readings for the first few minutes your car is running. I have mine after the selonoid and it has worked fine since install.

 

The solenoid stays closed during cold starts and some warm starts to increase the fuel pressure. When the solenoid valve closes the vacuum from the intake manifold doesn't get to the fuel pressure regulator, thus you run the static fuel pressure (i.e. higher than normal) at idle. It shouldn't affect boost readings during normal driving but it will show 0 when the valve is close even when the car is running vacuum. The ideal place to install the T is between the vacuum source and the solenoid valve.


Brian

 

Thanks for the info. I am thinking about getting a MBC until I can save up for the Vishnu Stage 1+....I was thinking about the AMS mbc....looks quality.

 

First i will get the engine misfire resolved

 

It will stall on zero at start up while the engine builds vacuum. Shouldn't take more than a few seconds to drop right into vac afterwards.

 

YEah i've had it stay at zero for a good 5 minutes......enough time to disassemble the entire turbo gauge, dash, and all plumbing to feel the source.

 

Mine did the same thing before I Installed a MBC. I wonder if it gonna do the same thing in the furture

 

Define before the selonoid. I define before the selonoid to be the line between the selonoid and intake manifold (where the gauge should be), and after the selonoid to be between the selonoid and FPR. This is the direction of the air flow when under pressure (assuming air could flow).


Also to whoever asked, yes plumbing it after the selonoid could result in lower pressure reading, since there will be an inherent pressure drop across the selonoid, a pressure drop from the T fitting, pressure drop due to the length of small tube from the intake manifold, and a pressure drop from the length of the hose between the T and your gauge (usually several feet).

The shorter and straighter the line, the more accurate your gauge would be. Ideally it should not be T'd in but rather directly connected to the manifold, but that is usually not possible. With a MAP sensor where an EMS or something is using it for engine management, you should have a direct connection to the manifold with no T's, and a short line.