Well guys, Im doing the 272 deed tommorow night I think. I have everything ready to go. Bought some permatex Ultragrey, Some engine assembly lube, some antiseize for tension tool which I will be using a 9" cut peice of M8x1.25 threaded steel rod I will be making. Will be using the tool VERY VERY slowly and carefully. I know some people have said to bleed the oil out of the lifters when the cams are out, but I am still kind of confused on this subject and dont see many others talking about it. I will be using evomoto's instructions. Once they are in, the only fuel managment I am running is the Walbro 255 HP pump, and SAFCII. Any last words of advice, or tips, or anything that I have left out will be really really great!!

 

well have been doing some more deeper searching and have found out that lifters are also called "lash adjusters" for the bleeding aspect. Do you have to take the rockers off to do the bleeding of the lifter/ last adjusters?

 

The only words of advice are below that I have:

1. Go slow take your time
2. Keep a cheat sheet with your torque settings just for reassurance
3. Use zip ties to hold your belt to the cam gears so it doesn't slip and keep a small amout of tension on the belt so it doesn't move on the bottom.
4. Only put just enough slack in the belt get it done.
5. Before placing your cams back in check all the lifters and arms to make sure they are on correctly and not leaning or off center.
6. Turn the crank several times and check the marks at top and bottom just as normal.

Other than that if you know the process it should be pretty easy for you. If you are changing your cam gears as well, you know to do one at a time and I placed marks on the best so I could match them up with the gear timming mark so I was confident it was right when I put the gear back on.

Good luck

 

thanks man.. Wont be doing gears, just cams at the moment. Any others??

 

I only needed to screw the belt tensioner down a littler bit. It felt like to me, that I was screwing the belt tension tool into a blind hole! The tensioner didnt move much from what i can tell, but you can see belt slack build up around the cam gears. You only need to reduce the belt tension slightly. Especially since your not replacing the cam gears, you just barely need to move the tensioner.

Do 1 cam at a time.

Good luck. It's pretty straight forward.

 

Zip ties ,zip ties ,zip ties ,zip ties ,zip ties

 

The only other thing that I can think of is be sure you put the cam angle sensor in correctly and when you break it loose I believe it is a 12mm deap socket do it while the cam is still in the head before you bust the caps loose. Much easier this way you can hold the cam with a I believe 1 and 1/16 open end wrench then you can get better leverage on the bolt so there is less chance in damaging the sensor, housing or bolt from slipping. If you aren't changing the gears zip ties will do you perfectly.

One other thing when you line everything up I lined up the gears to the line on the valve cover so I had a perfect match. The line on the crank was a little on the negative maybe 1-2 degrees behind the T, this is normal so keep that in mind when you put it back together and doing you checking. This way to can match gears to TDC instead of gussing 1 or 2 degrees up top on two different items with slack.

If I think of anything else I will let you know.

 

sweet, sounds good to me. I am anxious to get them on. Just dread finding out if Im gonna stall with them or on or not.

 

GTEVO reminded me of something, get a paint pen & mark the belt relative to the cam gears & bottom pulley. so after you get everything back on agsain, you can rest assured that the belt didnt move on you & that everything is where it needs to be.

I used the paint pen on the belt relative to the head, both int. & exh side, belt to gears, belt to bottom pulley, cam gears to valve cover. Yeah, there are marks on the valve cover, but you are marking your cam gears to you valve cover with your belt. The marks on the valve cover are generic, but close.

Be certain that hte rocker arms are sitting correctly after you install the cams.

wobbly 12mm socket or a wobbly universal joint.

 

will do...does anyone know if you have to take the rocker arms off to get access to the hole in the middle of the lifters so i can drain the oil out of them??

 

Yeah, you'll be able to remove the rockers one you have the cams out. After you remove the rockers, you'll see the lifter bore. Just stick a small allen wrench down the bore and compress the lifter. Oil should squirt out. That's all you need to do to bleed the lifters.

 

how hard are the rockers to take off and what do they need to be torqued back down to?? How do you think i should go about repriming the lifters once this is done?

 

You'll be able to remove the rockers by hand once the cams are out. The cams are the only thing keeping them in place.

I am not sure which fuse to pull to turn off the injectors. On my GSX, I pull the engine fuse and then crank the engine over for about a minute to reprime the lifters.

Also, a lot of people change their oil a day or two after installing a fresh set of cams. So if your car is ready for an oil change, install the cams right before it's due.

 

yeah, it should be but like 1k miles before an oil change, so it will be soon right after. Thanks man.. I just couldnt tell by pics if the rockers were bolted down somehow or not.

 

when removing the head there is a bolt underneath the thermostat housing that is hidden, don't forget about it or head won't come off.

edit: Can you tell I'm on top of things today, don't know wtf I was thinking about when thinking the head was coming of.... doh!