I had the exact same problem,in fact when it went under boost it whistled like a freight train,drove me crazy.I fixed it this weekend and here is how.I took the stock gasket and the one that came with the i/c pipe and stacked the two of them together and used avaition cement(looks like roofing tar in liquid form),gleud the two of the together and also
put very thin layer on the face of the lower i/c pipe,but make sure you dont have any on the gasket facing the turbo or on the turbo itself.put it all together and let sit overnight.road test in a.m. It worked for me great as no more boost leak.Hope this helps you out

 

I am missing something in the picture posted. I don't see anything wrong with the pipe/flange.

The very first few lower i/c pipes we sent out were not checked after being welded to see if they stayed flat. One was on our car and it was fine. We took a few back that weren't. Since then EVERY SINGLE flange is milled flat after it is welded. If the flange is bent when you go to re-check it then the problem is going to be that it got pulled down un-even.

Best way to do the install is this. Take off the negative battery cable, then take the two simple to get to starter bolts out and let the starter hang, it will not hurt the wires. From there you have a clear shot at the bolts for the lower i/c pipe. IF the lower i/c pipe has any interference with the wastegate actuator and you try and tighten it down anyway then you are going to bend the flange and it will NOT seal. Simply take a large screwdriver or pry bar and push the wastegate actuator over enough to clear without it pushing against it. This will then allow you to tighten it down with no leaks.

We are going to put some instructions together for the kits.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Another situation is when you perform a transmission service and while trying to pull the gearbox out, some twisting is involved and unequal pressure on ends of the flange may warp it.

Pull the pipe off, rub flange on surface plate, use copious amounts of gasket sealer and it's good as new.

The cool thing about that type of leak is that if you get lucky and warp it just right, it sounds like Donald Duck when you hit about 10psi.

 

Thks. I will try to get the starter bolts out and try to put the pipe back with some gasket sealer on it.

 

yes!!!!!! The prob is fixed. It was definitely the pipe coming off the turbo. Thanks David for your certainty of where the problem lied and the trick to get it done right The IC set up is awesome. The car pulls much better than with the stock lower IC. I'll have to call Jarrod to see where my upper pipe is. Later

 

Glad yours is fix. I cannot remove the lower bolt on the starter. I think someone must had put lock tight on it. Sounds stupid but where is the second starter bolt? Did you use the stock gasket with gasket sealer?

thks.

 

I had no problem reaching those just using a wobble (aka elbow joint) on the socket.

 

All I can say is that its much easier to work on a lift than on your back. Also having the right tools make things much easier to. we didnt take the starter off, but used a small diameter extension with the swivel joint to get up in there. Both bolts were quite loose. Thats all we did. Runs perfect.

 

A thanks. I also use the swivel joint to remove it in the first place. I put the pipe back with some rtv gasket sealer. car seems to be better but I still sense something is still leaking. And yes it sucks to be working on the back with no jack stands to support the car too.

 

I also have the Buschur Front Mount with lower IC pipe. It rubs the wastegate actuator. The IC is mounted as close as it can be to the body of the car. I dont have any leaks so I think it is ok, but I dont like the fact that it is practically on top of the wastegate. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Hmm. strange you guys are having such problems with the lower pipe. When I had the buschur kit, the pipe bolted up perfect without any leaks and never touched the actuator.

 

Just take a wrench of some kind, wedge it up there, and make some room. You only need a smidge of space.

 

Strange also because currently the pipe is touching the actuator. I hope this is not a bad thing. I believe it is just touching and not bending it.

 

all you are trying to do is eliminate the possibilty that the wastegate is putting unneccessary strain on the lower IC pipe so you can get it bolted down properly. If its barely touching it, that wont hurt anything.

 

The whole problem here is that when the transmission was removed to swap out your clutch, the motor hung down enough to pull on the intercooler piping and that bent the flange. With the BR piping (and any other aftermarket piping for that matter) you get more hard pipe and less rubber hose. The hard piping can not take the movement and forces of dropping the motor with it all connected. Something has to flex and it bends at the flange.

This is not a failure of the BR piping at all. It is a failure of the guys that did your clutch install in not disconnecting the hose and pipe to allow the motor to drop.

Mike W