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BR Lower intercooler pipe mess up

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Old Aug 31, 2004 | 09:05 PM
  #31  
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what about me? I didn't drop jack I doubt he "bent" the flange... The flange is just warped/not flat.

bryan

Originally Posted by Mike W
The whole problem here is that when the transmission was removed to swap out your clutch, the motor hung down enough to pull on the intercooler piping and that bent the flange. With the BR piping (and any other aftermarket piping for that matter) you get more hard pipe and less rubber hose. The hard piping can not take the movement and forces of dropping the motor with it all connected. Something has to flex and it bends at the flange.

This is not a failure of the BR piping at all. It is a failure of the guys that did your clutch install in not disconnecting the hose and pipe to allow the motor to drop.

Mike W
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 11:53 AM
  #32  
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I see the picture better now. I thought you were pointing out the eyelet thats open. Now I see the crease around the flange. Yeah sorry. my eyes werent looking where it needed to be. You may want to go ahead and replace the pipe or like you said earlier I think...you still will here a samall leak.
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 02:43 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by TampaTurbo
I see the picture better now. I thought you were pointing out the eyelet thats open. Now I see the crease around the flange. Yeah sorry. my eyes werent looking where it needed to be. You may want to go ahead and replace the pipe or like you said earlier I think...you still will here a samall leak.
Yeah I drove for a bit and then problem came back. So one side of the pipe hole is suppose to be open like that? I thought both side were suppose to be close ended. Please comfirm that it is like that from BR. If anyone can post a picture of a good piece that would help.
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Old Sep 1, 2004 | 06:12 PM
  #34  
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Can someone confirm this for me? The bolt that screws the lower intercooler to the turbo is 8mmx16.

Thanks.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 05:30 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by GOKOU
Yeah I drove for a bit and then problem came back. So one side of the pipe hole is suppose to be open like that? I thought both side were suppose to be close ended. Please comfirm that it is like that from BR. If anyone can post a picture of a good piece that would help.
YES. One of the eyelets are open.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 05:31 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by GOKOU
Can someone confirm this for me? The bolt that screws the lower intercooler to the turbo is 8mmx16.

Thanks.
You use the same stock bolts that were on there before.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 05:43 AM
  #37  
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i started a thread like this quite some time ago. Via another members suggestion i didnt re-use the metal gasket. I just went to autozone, bot a roll of high temp paperlike material gasket maker, soaked it in mobil 1 oil for about 5 minutes, installed it and i havent had a leak in about 3 months. Every so often i check the gasket and it is perfect. Because the gasket i made is pliable it will shape to flange. Just FYI
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 05:56 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by TampaTurbo
You use the same stock bolts that were on there before.
The car had this setup when I bought it. It looks like the person who did my clutch took out the stock bolt and replace it with a 8mmx16 hex bolt so I was just wondering if this was the correct size. Not sure whether it is 8mmx16 or 8mmx20.

Thks


Originally Posted by SuperchargedGTZ
i started a thread like this quite some time ago. Via another members suggestion i didnt re-use the metal gasket. I just went to autozone, bot a roll of high temp paperlike material gasket maker, soaked it in mobil 1 oil for about 5 minutes, installed it and i havent had a leak in about 3 months. Every so often i check the gasket and it is perfect. Because the gasket i made is pliable it will shape to flange. Just FYI
This have been a nightmare for me. I tried putting the lower pipe back and some how mess up the thread on the hole. Now I have to retap the hole. I should have took your suggestion and use a different gasket. This time if the dang thing don't work I'm getting a new gasket.
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Old Sep 2, 2004 | 11:25 AM
  #39  
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FWIW, when I took out the lower IC pipe for the 1st time, the gasket looked just like the new one that came with the BR lower IC pipe. They are metal and it wasnt crusty or anything. I am trying to remember if I had to out an 8mm socket on it or not. I want to say it was bigger like 10 or 12mm. Many of the bolts on this car are between those 2 sizes.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 07:25 AM
  #40  
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So, I had the auto body shop install my BR FMIC and Lower I/C pipe when I get on the boost there is a whistle/wine. Dose that mean a boost leak at the lower I/C pipe?
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 07:41 AM
  #41  
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yep. take it out, rub the flange on a surface plate so that it's perfectly flat. Reinstall, should be good as new.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 05:55 PM
  #42  
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I had the exact same problem with mine. After installation of the lower intercooler pipe I heard a loud whistle as the car came on boost!
The problem is / was not with the flange being warped, but the fact that it does not seat properly when tightened due to the black pipe resting on the wastegate actuator! The result is that you think you have a good seal and air passes through the space causing the gasket to vibrate [just like a reed-valve] making the loud whistling sound.
What i did was to note where the intercooler black pipe came into contact with the actuator and then just put a little dent in the pipe at that location. Reinstalled the pipe making sure that it wasnt making contact again and presto no more boost leak.
Problem solved
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 06:01 AM
  #43  
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It is NOT that the flange is not flat. EVERY single flange is milled before it leaves here. The only way it is NOT flat now is if the body shop tightened it down while it was hitting the wasteagate actuator and bent the flange doing it.

The actuator can be bent over slightly with a large screwdriver.

There is another solution also. Send me that pipe back and I can send you a new one. I just change our fixture and ended up adding a 1/4" of length to the end of the flange. I did this to make clearance for the actuator. No problem now.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
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