BR Lower Piping Warning
There are more to most of these stories than are being told but that is O.K.
The only thing I am going to even talk about is the oil line complaints. There is not better way to make the oil return line on the car. The factory return line is a piece of ****. The flex in it will break over time just as the DSM's did for the last 15 years. Cutting it off and sliding the hose kit over it is the best solution. As for the feed line. Same thing, the oil pressure from the head port is not high enough to feed the larger turbos. Re-routing the oil feed line to the oil filter housing gives the turbo not only more pressure/volume but also give the turbo cleaner oil.
F*** it, I am going to go into more of this. One of the turbo kits mentioned above was bought off a wrecked car. I don't have any idea what might have happened to the flange in this wreck. I am not getting complainst about those to flanges not sealing well. I wouldn't doubt at all that they leak though, they are two flat flanges that have both been welded. There is not gasket as these flanges were made to mate up to the factory 02 housing and that housing has a machined lip that sticks out and seals it. In this case the lip is gone. Nobody makes a flat gasket that will work with those bolt dimensions. Best solution if there is a leak (and I wouldn't worry about seeing a little black on it) would be to use some high temp silicone in between the two pieces.
As for the ripped exhausts. Yes, the first batch of them we built the rear hangers were prone to tearing, this was 18 months ago. We called EVERY SINGLE person who bought one and let them know we would replace it, fix it or send out the gusset to fix it. Since them we use a 180 degree hanger that will never have a problem. Let's see, that was 50 out of over 400 EVO exhausts we sold so far. All of them taken care of.
Lower i/c pipe. It is hard to get on the car. First few we shipped had flanges that were not milled after they were welded. Problem fixed, every single one gets milled flat now. The pipe has to be bolted down flat. If it hits the wastegate actuator and you just keep jamming the bolts down it will bend the flange. When you take it apart later to look where your leak is and you see it is bent it is because it was bent from putting it on wrong. Not my fault.
Lower i/c pipe not lining up with the FMIC pipe and ripping the coupling. The FMIC's are constantly getting the mounting tabs bent in shipping. If they do not line up perfectly then they are bent. Easy fix, bend the tab on the passenger side so the mounts line up AND the i/c lines up with the turbo outlet pipe.
To be honest, most people installing parts on their cars shouldn't be. The parts are built in fixtures. Each one is the same. You can't come here and see hundreds and hundreds of happy guys installing parts and then a few here and there having troubles and figure we are a bunch of hacks. You have to wonder what got bent in shipping, what used wrecked part they bought from someone else and how much knowledge they had in the first place.
We install the parts we sell here every single day. My brother (Dan, who owns and runs our service department) is as big an ******* as I am. If something doesn't fit he will hunt me down and complain about it. I find out immediately if there is a problem and we do something about how it is being built.
Anyway, I guess I feel I was being attacked pretty good here and here are some reasons things don't fit or atleast appear not to fit.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The only thing I am going to even talk about is the oil line complaints. There is not better way to make the oil return line on the car. The factory return line is a piece of ****. The flex in it will break over time just as the DSM's did for the last 15 years. Cutting it off and sliding the hose kit over it is the best solution. As for the feed line. Same thing, the oil pressure from the head port is not high enough to feed the larger turbos. Re-routing the oil feed line to the oil filter housing gives the turbo not only more pressure/volume but also give the turbo cleaner oil.
F*** it, I am going to go into more of this. One of the turbo kits mentioned above was bought off a wrecked car. I don't have any idea what might have happened to the flange in this wreck. I am not getting complainst about those to flanges not sealing well. I wouldn't doubt at all that they leak though, they are two flat flanges that have both been welded. There is not gasket as these flanges were made to mate up to the factory 02 housing and that housing has a machined lip that sticks out and seals it. In this case the lip is gone. Nobody makes a flat gasket that will work with those bolt dimensions. Best solution if there is a leak (and I wouldn't worry about seeing a little black on it) would be to use some high temp silicone in between the two pieces.
As for the ripped exhausts. Yes, the first batch of them we built the rear hangers were prone to tearing, this was 18 months ago. We called EVERY SINGLE person who bought one and let them know we would replace it, fix it or send out the gusset to fix it. Since them we use a 180 degree hanger that will never have a problem. Let's see, that was 50 out of over 400 EVO exhausts we sold so far. All of them taken care of.
Lower i/c pipe. It is hard to get on the car. First few we shipped had flanges that were not milled after they were welded. Problem fixed, every single one gets milled flat now. The pipe has to be bolted down flat. If it hits the wastegate actuator and you just keep jamming the bolts down it will bend the flange. When you take it apart later to look where your leak is and you see it is bent it is because it was bent from putting it on wrong. Not my fault.
Lower i/c pipe not lining up with the FMIC pipe and ripping the coupling. The FMIC's are constantly getting the mounting tabs bent in shipping. If they do not line up perfectly then they are bent. Easy fix, bend the tab on the passenger side so the mounts line up AND the i/c lines up with the turbo outlet pipe.
To be honest, most people installing parts on their cars shouldn't be. The parts are built in fixtures. Each one is the same. You can't come here and see hundreds and hundreds of happy guys installing parts and then a few here and there having troubles and figure we are a bunch of hacks. You have to wonder what got bent in shipping, what used wrecked part they bought from someone else and how much knowledge they had in the first place.
We install the parts we sell here every single day. My brother (Dan, who owns and runs our service department) is as big an ******* as I am. If something doesn't fit he will hunt me down and complain about it. I find out immediately if there is a problem and we do something about how it is being built.
Anyway, I guess I feel I was being attacked pretty good here and here are some reasons things don't fit or atleast appear not to fit.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Well, I'll be I have outspent all of you with Buschur products, and I'll be back for more. 
I have:
3In Downpipe & 3In Exhaust (One of the very early exhausts, and zero fitment issues)
3In Intake Pipe (Just had to clean out the dirt inside and put it in)
Stage 3 Shortblock (BR JE Pistons, BR Eagle Rods, ARP Hardware)
Stage 2 Head (BR Retainers, BR Springs, BR Valves, Mild Port)
AEM EMS Tuned by David
I have purchased A LOT of aftermarket parts for several different vehicles.
I will tell you this, BR make there parts in a small shop and hand makes just about everything (some things our outsourced to get cast, etc.). Now, they have made several itinerations to fix some of their early design problems and make things work better. There parts are 25-50% less than the competition and outperform them 90% of the time.
Yes, you can buy an exhaust that was welded in a huge factory with quality checking machines, but these exhausts weigh and don't perform as well. The BR exhaust is all stainless steel and weighs half of nearly all the JDM exhausts. Unfortunately of the 500+ they have sold, there have been a few mistakes, call, they'll fix it for free no questions asked! But it weighs so much less than the competitors, and costs so much less! And I have seen an exhaust claimed to be stainless steel with flanges that were rusting apart (made by Taipan XP and market in the US by one of the vendors). It makes more power, bar none, read the magazine!
And if you think it's an accident that Buschur has ran 11.59 on the stock turbo, it's not. David's parts cost less and make more power. Some people try to feed you bunk and tell you mindless technical jargon (that they spent a long time developing the downpipe design or they use a special core material for their intercooling, as if the other fabricators didn't, it's laughable) why you should spend $1000 dollars for an exhaust, $1000 for an intercooler. (And I applaud them, because they're making a large profit)
The number one reason I went with Buschur is they answer the phone. I called Pruven and Vishnu when I first got my evo, NEITHER even returned my call! (And they lost a dump load of money) They give free tech support over the phone, I got support for work that didn't even involve their parts. I got a complete turn around on a car with a blown engine in eight days! I talked to David personally almost every day, he bent over backwards. Some guy's returned my phone calls days later, emailed me information in a few days, and then laughed when I wanted my car in two weeks.
So, sure they're parts have occasional problems, but I'm sure they'll do their best to fix it for you. (and when it's fixed you'll be be beating guy's with twice the money in their cars) They sell a lot of parts, and we have 3 people here with complaints.
To be honest, the only companies I would trust my car with (for the power parts) now are Buschur and Automotosports. It's not an accident that these guy's dominate the other vendors.
I have:
3In Downpipe & 3In Exhaust (One of the very early exhausts, and zero fitment issues)
3In Intake Pipe (Just had to clean out the dirt inside and put it in)
Stage 3 Shortblock (BR JE Pistons, BR Eagle Rods, ARP Hardware)
Stage 2 Head (BR Retainers, BR Springs, BR Valves, Mild Port)
AEM EMS Tuned by David
I have purchased A LOT of aftermarket parts for several different vehicles.
I will tell you this, BR make there parts in a small shop and hand makes just about everything (some things our outsourced to get cast, etc.). Now, they have made several itinerations to fix some of their early design problems and make things work better. There parts are 25-50% less than the competition and outperform them 90% of the time.
Yes, you can buy an exhaust that was welded in a huge factory with quality checking machines, but these exhausts weigh and don't perform as well. The BR exhaust is all stainless steel and weighs half of nearly all the JDM exhausts. Unfortunately of the 500+ they have sold, there have been a few mistakes, call, they'll fix it for free no questions asked! But it weighs so much less than the competitors, and costs so much less! And I have seen an exhaust claimed to be stainless steel with flanges that were rusting apart (made by Taipan XP and market in the US by one of the vendors). It makes more power, bar none, read the magazine!
And if you think it's an accident that Buschur has ran 11.59 on the stock turbo, it's not. David's parts cost less and make more power. Some people try to feed you bunk and tell you mindless technical jargon (that they spent a long time developing the downpipe design or they use a special core material for their intercooling, as if the other fabricators didn't, it's laughable) why you should spend $1000 dollars for an exhaust, $1000 for an intercooler. (And I applaud them, because they're making a large profit)
The number one reason I went with Buschur is they answer the phone. I called Pruven and Vishnu when I first got my evo, NEITHER even returned my call! (And they lost a dump load of money) They give free tech support over the phone, I got support for work that didn't even involve their parts. I got a complete turn around on a car with a blown engine in eight days! I talked to David personally almost every day, he bent over backwards. Some guy's returned my phone calls days later, emailed me information in a few days, and then laughed when I wanted my car in two weeks.
So, sure they're parts have occasional problems, but I'm sure they'll do their best to fix it for you. (and when it's fixed you'll be be beating guy's with twice the money in their cars) They sell a lot of parts, and we have 3 people here with complaints.
To be honest, the only companies I would trust my car with (for the power parts) now are Buschur and Automotosports. It's not an accident that these guy's dominate the other vendors.
Last edited by metaphysical; Sep 3, 2004 at 03:03 PM.
Dave:
Hey thanx for the Springs and Retainers. What can those things handle as far as lift and rpms? Everything on the engine has been blueprinted and balanced and upgraded as far as internals so nothing to worry about there. I was just hoping to at least get 9K out of them? Maybe 9500? And are they able to handle 12mm of lift? Or is it a good idea to not go much higher then 11.5 or 11.8?
Oh ya one more question. I read in some other thread that people were saying you dont recommend the Ferrea valves. Is this true? I thought thats what you ran in your race cars? Anyway i have been holding off to get a answer on this. Is it worth going with Sodium filled valves? How about the $100 each Ti valves?
Sorry for getting
Chris
Hey thanx for the Springs and Retainers. What can those things handle as far as lift and rpms? Everything on the engine has been blueprinted and balanced and upgraded as far as internals so nothing to worry about there. I was just hoping to at least get 9K out of them? Maybe 9500? And are they able to handle 12mm of lift? Or is it a good idea to not go much higher then 11.5 or 11.8?
Oh ya one more question. I read in some other thread that people were saying you dont recommend the Ferrea valves. Is this true? I thought thats what you ran in your race cars? Anyway i have been holding off to get a answer on this. Is it worth going with Sodium filled valves? How about the $100 each Ti valves?
Sorry for getting
Chris
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
There are more to most of these stories than are being told but that is O.K.
The only thing I am going to even talk about is the oil line complaints. There is not better way to make the oil return line on the car. The factory return line is a piece of ****. The flex in it will break over time just as the DSM's did for the last 15 years. Cutting it off and sliding the hose kit over it is the best solution. As for the feed line. Same thing, the oil pressure from the head port is not high enough to feed the larger turbos. Re-routing the oil feed line to the oil filter housing gives the turbo not only more pressure/volume but also give the turbo cleaner oil.
F*** it, I am going to go into more of this. One of the turbo kits mentioned above was bought off a wrecked car. I don't have any idea what might have happened to the flange in this wreck. I am not getting complainst about those to flanges not sealing well. I wouldn't doubt at all that they leak though, they are two flat flanges that have both been welded. There is not gasket as these flanges were made to mate up to the factory 02 housing and that housing has a machined lip that sticks out and seals it. In this case the lip is gone. Nobody makes a flat gasket that will work with those bolt dimensions. Best solution if there is a leak (and I wouldn't worry about seeing a little black on it) would be to use some high temp silicone in between the two pieces.
As for the ripped exhausts. Yes, the first batch of them we built the rear hangers were prone to tearing, this was 18 months ago. We called EVERY SINGLE person who bought one and let them know we would replace it, fix it or send out the gusset to fix it. Since them we use a 180 degree hanger that will never have a problem. Let's see, that was 50 out of over 400 EVO exhausts we sold so far. All of them taken care of.
Lower i/c pipe. It is hard to get on the car. First few we shipped had flanges that were not milled after they were welded. Problem fixed, every single one gets milled flat now. The pipe has to be bolted down flat. If it hits the wastegate actuator and you just keep jamming the bolts down it will bend the flange. When you take it apart later to look where your leak is and you see it is bent it is because it was bent from putting it on wrong. Not my fault.
Lower i/c pipe not lining up with the FMIC pipe and ripping the coupling. The FMIC's are constantly getting the mounting tabs bent in shipping. If they do not line up perfectly then they are bent. Easy fix, bend the tab on the passenger side so the mounts line up AND the i/c lines up with the turbo outlet pipe.
To be honest, most people installing parts on their cars shouldn't be. The parts are built in fixtures. Each one is the same. You can't come here and see hundreds and hundreds of happy guys installing parts and then a few here and there having troubles and figure we are a bunch of hacks. You have to wonder what got bent in shipping, what used wrecked part they bought from someone else and how much knowledge they had in the first place.
We install the parts we sell here every single day. My brother (Dan, who owns and runs our service department) is as big an ******* as I am. If something doesn't fit he will hunt me down and complain about it. I find out immediately if there is a problem and we do something about how it is being built.
Anyway, I guess I feel I was being attacked pretty good here and here are some reasons things don't fit or atleast appear not to fit.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The only thing I am going to even talk about is the oil line complaints. There is not better way to make the oil return line on the car. The factory return line is a piece of ****. The flex in it will break over time just as the DSM's did for the last 15 years. Cutting it off and sliding the hose kit over it is the best solution. As for the feed line. Same thing, the oil pressure from the head port is not high enough to feed the larger turbos. Re-routing the oil feed line to the oil filter housing gives the turbo not only more pressure/volume but also give the turbo cleaner oil.
F*** it, I am going to go into more of this. One of the turbo kits mentioned above was bought off a wrecked car. I don't have any idea what might have happened to the flange in this wreck. I am not getting complainst about those to flanges not sealing well. I wouldn't doubt at all that they leak though, they are two flat flanges that have both been welded. There is not gasket as these flanges were made to mate up to the factory 02 housing and that housing has a machined lip that sticks out and seals it. In this case the lip is gone. Nobody makes a flat gasket that will work with those bolt dimensions. Best solution if there is a leak (and I wouldn't worry about seeing a little black on it) would be to use some high temp silicone in between the two pieces.
As for the ripped exhausts. Yes, the first batch of them we built the rear hangers were prone to tearing, this was 18 months ago. We called EVERY SINGLE person who bought one and let them know we would replace it, fix it or send out the gusset to fix it. Since them we use a 180 degree hanger that will never have a problem. Let's see, that was 50 out of over 400 EVO exhausts we sold so far. All of them taken care of.
Lower i/c pipe. It is hard to get on the car. First few we shipped had flanges that were not milled after they were welded. Problem fixed, every single one gets milled flat now. The pipe has to be bolted down flat. If it hits the wastegate actuator and you just keep jamming the bolts down it will bend the flange. When you take it apart later to look where your leak is and you see it is bent it is because it was bent from putting it on wrong. Not my fault.
Lower i/c pipe not lining up with the FMIC pipe and ripping the coupling. The FMIC's are constantly getting the mounting tabs bent in shipping. If they do not line up perfectly then they are bent. Easy fix, bend the tab on the passenger side so the mounts line up AND the i/c lines up with the turbo outlet pipe.
To be honest, most people installing parts on their cars shouldn't be. The parts are built in fixtures. Each one is the same. You can't come here and see hundreds and hundreds of happy guys installing parts and then a few here and there having troubles and figure we are a bunch of hacks. You have to wonder what got bent in shipping, what used wrecked part they bought from someone else and how much knowledge they had in the first place.
We install the parts we sell here every single day. My brother (Dan, who owns and runs our service department) is as big an ******* as I am. If something doesn't fit he will hunt me down and complain about it. I find out immediately if there is a problem and we do something about how it is being built.
Anyway, I guess I feel I was being attacked pretty good here and here are some reasons things don't fit or atleast appear not to fit.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Thanks Metaphysical.
As for the springs and such. Hate to answer here as it is off topic but.. those springs don't coil bind until .620 inches of lift. Ferrea's coil bind at .580. I do not run the Ferrea valves or springs in our stuff. Cost is part of it and the flow bench numbers are the other part of it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
As for the springs and such. Hate to answer here as it is off topic but.. those springs don't coil bind until .620 inches of lift. Ferrea's coil bind at .580. I do not run the Ferrea valves or springs in our stuff. Cost is part of it and the flow bench numbers are the other part of it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
There are more to most of these stories than are being told but that is O.K.
The only thing I am going to even talk about is the oil line complaints. There is not better way to make the oil return line on the car. The factory return line is a piece of ****. The flex in it will break over time just as the DSM's did for the last 15 years. Cutting it off and sliding the hose kit over it is the best solution. As for the feed line. Same thing, the oil pressure from the head port is not high enough to feed the larger turbos. Re-routing the oil feed line to the oil filter housing gives the turbo not only more pressure/volume but also give the turbo cleaner oil.
The only thing I am going to even talk about is the oil line complaints. There is not better way to make the oil return line on the car. The factory return line is a piece of ****. The flex in it will break over time just as the DSM's did for the last 15 years. Cutting it off and sliding the hose kit over it is the best solution. As for the feed line. Same thing, the oil pressure from the head port is not high enough to feed the larger turbos. Re-routing the oil feed line to the oil filter housing gives the turbo not only more pressure/volume but also give the turbo cleaner oil.
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
F*** it, I am going to go into more of this. One of the turbo kits mentioned above was bought off a wrecked car. I don't have any idea what might have happened to the flange in this wreck. I am not getting complainst about those to flanges not sealing well. I wouldn't doubt at all that they leak though, they are two flat flanges that have both been welded. There is not gasket as these flanges were made to mate up to the factory 02 housing and that housing has a machined lip that sticks out and seals it. In this case the lip is gone. Nobody makes a flat gasket that will work with those bolt dimensions. Best solution if there is a leak (and I wouldn't worry about seeing a little black on it) would be to use some high temp silicone in between the two pieces.
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
To be honest, most people installing parts on their cars shouldn't be. The parts are built in fixtures. Each one is the same. You can't come here and see hundreds and hundreds of happy guys installing parts and then a few here and there having troubles and figure we are a bunch of hacks. You have to wonder what got bent in shipping, what used wrecked part they bought from someone else and how much knowledge they had in the first place.
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
Anyway, I guess I feel I was being attacked pretty good here and here are some reasons things don't fit or atleast appear not to fit.
BTW, aside from the great performance of your parts, so far dealing with your dad Jim has been the best part. Take that as a compliment.
Last edited by propellerhead; Sep 3, 2004 at 04:37 PM.
Dave: I'm not attacking you or your shop period. I'm listing things I had go wrong and for you to dismiss all part defects of shipping damage is wrong. I have been working on cars for years now. I've done a lot of installs/rebuilds/builds over the last 6-7 years... I'll state it right now.
************************************************** ***************
EACH TIME I CONTACTED BUSCHUR ABOUT BAD PARTS THEY WERE NICE AND SAID THEY WOULD FIX IT IF I SENT IT BACK!
************************************************** ***************
with that being said, I simply could not afford the time lately and wished you guys could send me replacement parts, HELL even charge my card until I send the old parts back. I got a new employer and moved + went through some other legal stuff in the past few months so I can't afford the time right now to wait for parts while the car is down. I'm sorry but I believe talking about your experinces is what makes a good car community and good car community. I come here for information/entertainment. It would be a pretty useless site if no one ever talked about what has happened to them or what they are doing. I don't understand why you feel so attacked when most have said they like your shop and just don't understand what went wrong or is going wrong. It's a bit immature of you to act that way towards everyone.
I'm in no way cheap, I buy buschur parts because I like their designs. Too many other shops just reproduce what is sold in a million places. I like keeping things simple as they do with their kits but improving parts. I just don't know what else to say...
bryan
************************************************** ***************
EACH TIME I CONTACTED BUSCHUR ABOUT BAD PARTS THEY WERE NICE AND SAID THEY WOULD FIX IT IF I SENT IT BACK!
************************************************** ***************
with that being said, I simply could not afford the time lately and wished you guys could send me replacement parts, HELL even charge my card until I send the old parts back. I got a new employer and moved + went through some other legal stuff in the past few months so I can't afford the time right now to wait for parts while the car is down. I'm sorry but I believe talking about your experinces is what makes a good car community and good car community. I come here for information/entertainment. It would be a pretty useless site if no one ever talked about what has happened to them or what they are doing. I don't understand why you feel so attacked when most have said they like your shop and just don't understand what went wrong or is going wrong. It's a bit immature of you to act that way towards everyone.
I'm in no way cheap, I buy buschur parts because I like their designs. Too many other shops just reproduce what is sold in a million places. I like keeping things simple as they do with their kits but improving parts. I just don't know what else to say...
bryan
Looks like I'll have to. My downpipe flange is warped. It's virtually impossible to fix because the lightweight SS tubing is so thin it bends the whole DP if you attempt to flatten it. I could probably do it if I had a mandrel clamp.
Like Dave said, I should hang up my wrenches...
Like Dave said, I should hang up my wrenches...
I will order my FMIC for that special they have of $750 out the door for the labor day sale...
Im hoping I dont have any problems you guys are stating ESPECIALLY pin holes..man that would totally suck having a part and is leaking boost and you not knowing it....
I will check all parts as they come... Have most parts on delivery .. mas pipe,filter,upper intercooler pipe, and small battery........It should be great and excited about the parts...just dont want any pin holes
Im hoping I dont have any problems you guys are stating ESPECIALLY pin holes..man that would totally suck having a part and is leaking boost and you not knowing it....
I will check all parts as they come
... Have most parts on delivery .. mas pipe,filter,upper intercooler pipe, and small battery........It should be great and excited about the parts...just dont want any pin holes
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Pensacola, FL
Regarding the downpipe issue: I just got a 3" turbo back from Buschur and my downpipe also leaks. I don't see it as a big deal, though, some high-temp silicone will solve the problem and is much easier than putting everything back on the car to send the dp back. I'm not posting this info for any particular reason, but there it is.
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