HKS cams, valvetrain tick?
Originally Posted by manOfaith
But are variances in lobe lift and duration reasoning for ticking....I'm not so sure though.
I haven't examined the cam-related mechanicals up close, but the ticking is likely caused by a gap between two metallic surfaces that is larger than spec. My first suspicion would be one or more gaps between a few lobes' base circles and the rockers' surfaces.
No ticking with the Piper cams I have installed. If you do a search I've also posted a procedure from the service manual that is used to remove air from the lifters in this forum before. It was in one of the other cam install related threads.
Originally Posted by vividracing3
Just got off the phone w/ HKS they say the "tick" is not normal & is caused by not using the proper install lube. I think I disagree w/them on this. Every set I've done I used comp cam install lube. Cam install lube is cam install lube whether its made by Comp or a little person on Mars. It happened to me, like I said before, once. And yes I used install lube that time also. Talking to some of those guys @ h_s can be frustrating. They said switch to synthetic oil and that will fix it, but doesn't the EVO come W/ Synthetic from the factory? Switch? 
Last edited by Coolguy949; Oct 10, 2004 at 11:40 AM.
Originally Posted by propellerhead
Mine only ticks when cold. I suspect it's a clearance issue that tightens up when the aluminum head is soaked with heat.
If 30 minutes is required to get oil to the cam gear during regular engine operation, you have serious problem with the oiling system, and the motor will be toast.
I've had a close look at the mechanism yesterday, and I don't think it has anything to do with oiling. The mechanism appears to be a simple roller rocker that follows the lobe, the opposite end depressing the valve stem cap. If there is slack between the lobe and the roller follower that is not taken up by thermal expansion, you will get valve train noise each time the lobe comes around and the roller follower 'slaps' the ramp. The slack could be caused by a base circle that is slightly smaller than factory spec. The cam follower specs should be listed in the engine manual. If there is a means of adjustment to cure excessive clearance, it wasn't obvious. If this is the cause, using or not using cam lube would bear no influence over the situation.
The only way this theory can be proven or disproven is for someone with a ticking valvetrain to measure the clearance between the base circle and the followers for each valve, compare them for consistency, and compare the readings against the factory specs.
I've had a close look at the mechanism yesterday, and I don't think it has anything to do with oiling. The mechanism appears to be a simple roller rocker that follows the lobe, the opposite end depressing the valve stem cap. If there is slack between the lobe and the roller follower that is not taken up by thermal expansion, you will get valve train noise each time the lobe comes around and the roller follower 'slaps' the ramp. The slack could be caused by a base circle that is slightly smaller than factory spec. The cam follower specs should be listed in the engine manual. If there is a means of adjustment to cure excessive clearance, it wasn't obvious. If this is the cause, using or not using cam lube would bear no influence over the situation.
The only way this theory can be proven or disproven is for someone with a ticking valvetrain to measure the clearance between the base circle and the followers for each valve, compare them for consistency, and compare the readings against the factory specs.
The tick is normal guys,I had it stock and I still have it with cams..
Listened to other evos when the guy said he had "NO TICK" took a look,he had the same thing I had he just didnt know what to listen for...
TICK is normal...All 4G63 makes this noise Ive listened to 5 so far...
Listened to other evos when the guy said he had "NO TICK" took a look,he had the same thing I had he just didnt know what to listen for...
TICK is normal...All 4G63 makes this noise Ive listened to 5 so far...
I just had my cams installed...at cold start there is no ticking, once the engine starts warming up it starts ticking, but when oil temp gets about 60C it starts going away. By the time engine is fully warmed up it completely goes away.
When stockthe tick cycle was similar but my guess is the higher lift cycle amplifies the sound.
When stockthe tick cycle was similar but my guess is the higher lift cycle amplifies the sound.
I haven't heard the ticking some are saying is specific to some aftermarket cams, so I have no means of guessing if it is indeed normal valvetrain noise or something unusual. In any case, any excessive slack in the valvetrain (if such a thing exists here) would result in lost valve lift and possibly unusual wear issues. Perhaps it is normal, but we won't know without a bit of investigation.
One of the problems is the interpretation of tick noise, to one guy it may sound like a tick to another its just engine noise...
My motor makes alot of noise, hehe nature of the best...
wish we had some sound files...
My motor makes alot of noise, hehe nature of the best...
wish we had some sound files...
Mine definately is lifter noise... the "ticky tak" goes completely away when the engine oil is at 50-55 C (oil pan sensor) it lasts for 2-5 minutes at most. Is this something I need to worry about?
[edit] it sounds like all lifters tick until it warms up
[edit] it sounds like all lifters tick until it warms up
Last edited by Jorge T; Oct 8, 2004 at 10:13 PM.
My cams were recently installed and I havenet heard anything until rhe last couple days. I did have my oil changed with 5W-30 Pennzoil Perfomax (synthetic) Had it in there before to. My cams have been in a week now. Anyway, I heard this noise and lifted the hood. It sounded like the injectors but taking a closer look it sounded like the sound was coming from the exhaust cam. I also noticed the cam gear cover was ate up from the rotation of the Fidenza cam gears. Ther was plastic shavings(powder) sitting around the gears. I am going to take a sander to the inside of the cover to get rid of all the excess plastic thats hitting the bolts on the gears. Anyone else have this problem. Part of the noise was the gears slapping the plastic inside the cover........
Originally Posted by Ted B
If 30 minutes is required to get oil to the cam gear during regular engine operation, you have serious problem with the oiling system, and the motor will be toast.
I've had a close look at the mechanism yesterday, and I don't think it has anything to do with oiling. The mechanism appears to be a simple roller rocker that follows the lobe, the opposite end depressing the valve stem cap. If there is slack between the lobe and the roller follower that is not taken up by thermal expansion, you will get valve train noise each time the lobe comes around and the roller follower 'slaps' the ramp. The slack could be caused by a base circle that is slightly smaller than factory spec. The cam follower specs should be listed in the engine manual. If there is a means of adjustment to cure excessive clearance, it wasn't obvious. If this is the cause, using or not using cam lube would bear no influence over the situation.
The only way this theory can be proven or disproven is for someone with a ticking valvetrain to measure the clearance between the base circle and the followers for each valve, compare them for consistency, and compare the readings against the factory specs.
I've had a close look at the mechanism yesterday, and I don't think it has anything to do with oiling. The mechanism appears to be a simple roller rocker that follows the lobe, the opposite end depressing the valve stem cap. If there is slack between the lobe and the roller follower that is not taken up by thermal expansion, you will get valve train noise each time the lobe comes around and the roller follower 'slaps' the ramp. The slack could be caused by a base circle that is slightly smaller than factory spec. The cam follower specs should be listed in the engine manual. If there is a means of adjustment to cure excessive clearance, it wasn't obvious. If this is the cause, using or not using cam lube would bear no influence over the situation.
The only way this theory can be proven or disproven is for someone with a ticking valvetrain to measure the clearance between the base circle and the followers for each valve, compare them for consistency, and compare the readings against the factory specs.
There is no adjustment since it is hydraulic.
this is a good description
http://www.lancerregister.com/faq_f01.php






