for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues
 

What is the best setup to relieve the excess crankcase pressure? I am looking into the http://www.saikoumichi.com/ stuff.

Reason im doing this is because i have so much crankcase pressure that the oil is being pushed up the turbo return line from the pan and leaking oil out of the Vband on my fp black.

Just wanted some advice or suggestions here. I want to run around 40psi eventually, but right now im only running 32 and experiencing this issue. What is the best route and way to go about this?

drill bigger holes in the valve cover on the existing holes already on the valve cover and route to the saikou cans? i emailed saikou and a few other vendors to see what is recommended / can be done etc.

Maybe the Kiggly hla pressure regulator would alleviate the situation.

I already have that.

try and disconnect your pcv valve from the intake manifold.

krankvent, and/or hal's oil cap

i will do that, but i dont wanna just spray it to the ground, so im looking for the best route to go about this while maintaining the least amount of oil as possible. I believe my first 2.3 failed due to this reason.. it was pushing the oil up there and the turbo was slowly burning it off without showing signs out the tailpipe. im glad i just caught it this time.

Wow... Yeah Boost has a good point. I've run the Saikoumichi cans since '07 and love them.

hal's oil cap i heard is no good because it pushes to much oil out of the valve cover, so it must be recirculated back into the motor. the dsm guys recirculate it into the balance shaft inspection hole ,but i doubt that can be done on a evo since its so close to the exhaust manifold.

ya i sent them an email, see what he can do for me. :thumbup:

Pull out the barb on the transmission side of the valve cover and the PVC valve. STM and several others make press in -6AN fittings, run lines from both to a catch can.

As far as I know I don't have crank case pressure issues at all...I've been running MAP's little crankcase vents for a while on another catch can setup but I got rid of that catch can and plan on purchasing one of the DC3s before december...Hal's vented oil cap looks very interesting also but I feel a lot of oil would come out of there even if it has baffling in it...Even though I'm not having issues I guess the less crankcase pressure the better...

ya you wont. it has lots to do with my built motor. i never had much blowby with the stock motor. Hal's cap i was told by 2-3 people that it releases to much oil and isnt safe for a daily driven evo unless its recirculated back into the pan.

are you venting the can to the atmosphere then as well with a breather filter?

i have this also in the garage. would this be of any benefit to run along with the can i install? http://www.maperformance.com/kracka-...acuum-kit.html

Im also haveing problems keeping my dip stick on. I got a HUGE spring holding it down now but after a couple hard pulls I pop my hood and the stick is down but oil is around it,....

So finally yanked the valve cover and drill and taped a HUGE threaded nipple so that helped a lil im guessing but still want to run the STM AN fittings to be sure.

I PMed Em from STM and he said they could build me a nice kit so ima go with that along with the extra nipple I alrdy have nd see if that down it,...

Very nice. I will contact Emery also and see what he says.

if you guys are pushing that much oil the compressor side seal may be bad.

turbos brand new. maybe 250 miles on it. was just rebuilt. i called fp, they said that the vband is not designed to seal for a reason, so if you have extreme crankcase pressure it will leak past the vband. if it continues after i get a proper crankcase ventilation i will send it back to them again, but i doubt it has anything to do with the seal, theres no smoke out the tailpipe at all.

another thing to consider is a good catch can. a lot of people go for some exotic baller brand and 99% dont work good. i strongly recommend this one. it works better than anything i have ever used. even $200+ ones.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-85470/

i think i need atleast 5/8 - 1" fittings tho. i plan on running 40psi+ eventually. I was initially gonna go with this: Attachment 290600

but JID2 told me not to because it fills up the can so fast and he had to make something on his dipstick to drain the oil back to the pan similar to br's catch can.

so he said just drill out the existing holes on the valve cover and bring them to a catch can and vent to atmosphere with a air filter.

I just want to go the best route possible. the least amount of oil loss, and the most ventilation possible.

with the 3/8 npt fittings you can run a pair of 1/2" i.d. hoses. that should be plenty unless the engine is in really poor health. and i agree, hog out the stock baffled fitting holes and mount the can as high as possible.

well the engine only has 250 miles on it as well. it cant do pulls without having a spring holding down the dipstick, so it has lots of blowby, but the compression is 150 across right now. i think thats about right since i have big cams and 9:1 compression.

it will get a lot better with more miles, but that moroso can with a pair of 1/2" hoses can pass a lot of air and catch a lot of oil.

I've posted this pic a couple times in catch can threads before but since you mentioned Saikou Michi I'll throw it up again.

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1509/img0362a.jpg

After a year of beating the car on the track I was getting a little smoke when going into boost, oil in the intake yada yada yada :D so I installed this guy.

After a couple days of driving I noticed that the smoke was gone, cleaned out the intake (turbo) and ran the car hard. I checked a couple more times in 1000 miles or so and the intake was clean.

This was on my stock turbo setup that saw a spike of 30psi and tapered to 25psi. For my new build (EFR 9180) I will be drilling out the cover where the factory ports come out and install either -8 or -10 lines going to a vented can with a baffle and a breather. I'll make a return to the oilpan as well just so I won't have to drain it manually.

it wont work properly if you have it plumbed into the oil pan unless that line has a check valve in it.

Thats right. I just didn't throw that in the post! :lol: Wouldn't want to misinform anyone! Running one without some sort of valve would be a waste. {thumbup}

This should help

http://www.mellontuning.com/index.ph...roducts_id=191

BUSCHUR RACING CATCH CAN

Included in the kit is a modified, new dipstick. You simply remove your old dipstick, replace it with the new one and run the hose from the bottom of the catch can back into the dipstick. This also acts as another port to relieve crank case pressure. You end up with 3 ports to vent crankcase pressure rather than the 1 factory port. This does free up some horsepower.

this cans known to get water contaminated. when i was gonna get one i got 10 pm's from people saying not to get it cause they had milky substances coming out of their can. dont know if its cause they installed it wrong or what, but thats why im avoiding it. anyone else wanna comment why this happens with this can?

There was a guy who had the water issue but he said it only happened if he used the dipstick return to oil pan port.. not sure if this is accurate .. :updown:

All cans get that, thats why i wouldnt drain it back to the pan.

You can kinda see what I have here, best pic I could find without looking to hard. :)

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._4275607_n.jpg

I drilled and tapped the fittings, there are baffels on the valve cover, keep the fittings above the baffles and I don't see why you will have a problem. I ran alot of boost and alot of rpm, and didn't overly fill the can.

Fathouse

WHy does the dip stick pop up???

Looks good Fathouse! I plan on putting mine in that area since moving the battery to the back left me plenty of room.

never though about that,..... hmmm. my 61mm dbb has around 9K HARD miles, but when I turn the car off it recently started making a noise as it spooled down,.. hmmm.

sorry to get off of topic but gives me and whoever else might have this problem an idea.... {thumbup}:mitsu:

i RUn 2 valves inline in addition to my Saikou dual catch cans. I run 34-35psi and have no blow by issues or dipstick pop out issues. Here's what my setup looks like.

Like others said, it may be related to your seals. It could also be your PCV is not strong enough for your high boost levels.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j1...th_PCVVLVE.jpg

The dip stick pops out because either your pressurizing the crank case through the valve cover or your creating a lot of crank pressure and those valve cover ports are not large enough to release it properly.

The stock check valve sucks. I was able to use the power of my lunges to blow through mine.

Catch cans collect water from condensation, that is why most people see water in them or the milky looking mixture.

If your oil dipstick is poping out, vent to atmosphere (both valve cover ports). This will also ensure complete bone dry intake piping. I've been venting to atmosphere for the past 30k miles and I currently have 36k miles. Dip stick never flew off and my intercooler/pipes are all bone dry. And on top of it, i was running 24 psi on stock turbo and 31 psi on my HTA green.

If your already venting to atmosphere and the dip stick pops out, then your valve cover ports are not allowing you to efficiently relieve crank case pressure. Time to get creative and drill/tap new relief ports.


Any one ever see those Honda setups where people are running crazy amounts of valve cover ports going to a huge catch can with multiple breathers venting to atmosphere? Well I was told supposedly they are freeing 20-40 hp by relieving all that pressure. Makes me wonder, would our engines have similar gains?

well actually no it wouldn't
if after increasing the cam cover breather size hole openings and pipe etc to a can (with breather) and still have issues
the other trouble is the size of the hole/tube/shaft/pipe from the crank case to the cam cover is the issue for engines with large crank case pressures
other engines i've seen have 1.5" id vent
how you would implement an extra vent externally etc is not something i've looked at but just thought i'd throw the idea up

the job of the regulator is to keep the oil in the pan, so im sure its only assisting in more pressure down at the oil pan building up .. so if anything its only making my situation worse.

so what i understand is you can recirculate your catch can back into the pan only if you have a check valve between the tube thats dumping it back? id like to drain it back to the pan, whether it be by the dipstick or other means.. just curious.

I dont know how much oil this motor will spit out at 40psi, so i want to keep as much of it as i possibly can in the pan.

appreciate all the help/feedback/pictures everyone.

fathouse you have a setup similar to what i showed a picture of right? i spoke to JID he road courses his evo, he told me not to copy his setup because it fills up with oil to fast and requires to be drained back to the pan.. if i can drain back good oil to the pan i wouldn't mind doing that, i see no harm in it.... but can we drain this oil back to the pan safely thats being pushed into the catch can? i see honda guys doing it, but i dont wanna be draining back contaminated oil.

The problem with venting to atmosphere is that you'll always have a positive pressure in the engine before you get any flow. How much pressure of course is a function of how large the breathing ports are, Location, and where the blow-by is coming from. So its hard to say how much pressure builds up and any give area of the engine.
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<br />
I'm a big proponent of creating a vacuum in the crankcase as is done from the factory. Problem of course is that with modded motors we get even more blow-by and end up with oil in our intake. The solution is a catch can inline with a vent tube similar to whats shown below, or better yet a coelecence filter separating the top and bottom to help get the aerated oil out of the air.
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<br />
The mesh should help give the oil something to grab on to while the air separates. One thing to think about, the blow-by is air that has already mixed with fuel. If that is allowed to just sit in the engine without being positively removed then eventually fuel vapors will condense mixing with the oil. Actively vacuuming the air out via the intake manifold off boost and intake pipe on boost will help prevent washing out the oil.
<br />
<br />
While I'm just a lowly M.E. and not a chem engineer, I cant imagine gas has any business doing in a modded cars oil ;)


https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/me...atch-can-1.jpg

What I dont get is how is a closed can going to relieve pressure from the engine if its closed up and not released to atmosphere? seems like its going to do nothing.. i want the air to escape from the engine not recirculate and maintain the pressure.

too add my 0.02 im currently running a cusco oil catch can, i would make it a dual catch can setup run a t setup t off a vacuum line from the valve by the cam sensor and also the valve by the intake mani, run those 2 to a catch can and recirc back to the intake, should help alleviate that... if that dont completely fix it, are you tightening down your oil dipstick, becuz you shouldnt have crankcase pressure issues, unless possibly your pcv is malfunctioning.
sorry couldnt be more help then that
good luck
dastallion out

when i think about scavenging the crankcase with a non-drysump system, this is the only thing that comes to mind.

I have seen these used for decades on dragsters & such.....however i have not seen them in use on a turbo car.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/V...uation-Systems

Ok i see. so its getting shot back into the intake manifold rather then atmosphere and this in return doesn't lose any vacuum. makes sense now.

sounds like your slightly confusing 2 issues
the first issue is venting AIR pressure from the crankcase this has nothing to do with oil/oil pressure to a degree.
simply the AIR pressure built needs an escape. as said improving breathers at the cam cover helps lots as of course the cam cover is linked to the sump by 2 iirc AIR ways. the bottle neck at medium sump pressures is the cam cover breather holes / breather pipe diameters.
issue 2 is the pressures in the sump prevent or slow down oil returning to sump down the drain holes and this is where you can start to have oil forced thru turbo seals and into breather system
i think thats right anyway :cool:

If you run it back to the intake, it will suck oil. No catch can will ever get all of it.

I run the header evac setups on all the chevy builds that I've done over the years. We put one on a turbo'd mustang once in place of a catch can setup and it would go through oil rather quickly, guess it sucked too well. Just one example for what it's worth.

well to add another 0.02 with my crankcase pressure, i intermittenly have a dipstick pop up and when i mean pop maybe a couple inches out of the tube. now with my cusco, ive been running my mods for 14k miles on my built engine, and almost 10k prior on stock engine with my cusco oil catch can, now on my can i have a hose next to it, that basically monitors how much oil vapors is currently in the can kinda like a full marker...to this day 3 years later still cant even see it registering on the full marker.. so imo try a cusco granted its a couple hundred for it, but if it helps alleviate some headaches your havin, then there ya go. hahah
good luck
dastallion out

Pre-turbo has a vacuum under boost. The vacuum pulls the gas through the catch can from the crankcase into the intake pipe which then gets burned. Just like how its set up from the factory only adding a catch can in between. Most evo guys cant seem to grasp the concept, but the DSM guys figured it out a while ago. Probably cause the DSMs are all older and have more blow-by problems...but eventually evo guys will get there. :P

What size AN fittings did you install on the valvecover?

here is what I ended up doing, I copied and pasted in here for you to look at

the thread is located here is you choose to see more

"Good morning everyone,

A little while ago, I had some ideas about positive crank case ventilation, in which I wanted to relieve as much pressure as possible, but still retain the PCV system for daily driving benefits.
I had intially come up with the following sketch
Attachment 290573

Now it was time to put it all together.
A while ago I had rex powdercoat a valve cover for me, as I was tired of the red stock cover. I also drilled out the sides of the cover, so that I would be able to place -10 AN lines to it. These relief holes are above the baffle plate that is in the stock evolution V.C
here is what the cover looks like
Attachment 290574
a picture with the 1/2"NPT to -10AN fittings installed.
Attachment 290575

Realestate under the hood of my car is very limited. The catch can that I have is rather large, so I definitely had to get creative with a location for placement. I decided that I would place it infront of the transmission an under the intake pipe. I ended up using an old saw zaw BLADE, bending it up and creating a bracket to hold the catch can
Attachment 290576
Attachment 290577
here is what it looks like under the intake (you can barely see it )
Attachment 290578

Oh I almost forgot, I made this intake completely out of straight pieces of 4" stainless pipe. However the guy that tigged it up, did a terrible job, where I had to spend about 4 hours, grinding everything inside the pipe down, because of all the slag that was present. Rex, then finished her off with some black chrome powder coat. I think it looks really nice now, you can't even tell that it was pipe cut
Attachment 290579

Moving along, I began to take off the old cover, transferring gaskets,pcv valve, and the little washers that go under the V.C bolts
Attachment 290580
if you look in this picture you can see the air oil separater which is by the oil dipstick in the left side of the picture below
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23...o/DSC00667.jpg

I added my -10 AN Prolite hose, to the 45 degree -10 an fittings, definitely gives it a nice contrast
Attachment 290581

installing the cover
Attachment 290582

here is a picture of the can without the filter and with the hoses attached
Attachment 290583
Attachment 290584

and finally with everything together
Attachment 290585
Attachment 290586
Attachment 290587

here is the finished product, sorry but the GF was taking way too many pictures, so I am posting them all up :)
Attachment 290588
Attachment 290589
Attachment 290590

Attachment 290591

and finally with the hood closed
Attachment 290592

Hope you enjoyed my sunday afternoon work.

have a great week everyone
later

Do i see 2 bov's?

ya hes got 2 bov's. i was gonna do exactly what he did with the valve cover but JID told me not to do it because it will dump to much oil into the can..... now i am interested in knowing how much oil you see in your breather tank antilag?

Tscompusa ........ feel free to call me warren :)

In the oil separator the one that is between the PCV valve and intake manifold I see maybe 2 table spoons of oil, In the main catch can that has the two -10 an lines going to it, I see a minimal amount of oil/water condensation. When I say minimal, a few drops here and there, The car is driven approximately 80 miles daily, with a few mash it to floor escapades.

I hope that helps and feel free to ask any questions, and I will do my best to help.

Edit : IT WILL dump oil if you drill the holes, below the baffle of the valve cover, IN my case, the two 1/2 inch NPT holes are above the baffle of the valve cover.

Ya mine is above the baffles also. I have no problems, I do not road race my car though, just quick burst to 150 :)

Creamo3, I use 1/2ntp to -10

Fathouse

Warren,
Where did you get your catchcan from? Baffled?

If your going to drill, then just go a head and fab a baffle for the extra port. The oem ports are protected by a baffle so oil spraying around doesnt reach them as easily, just the vapors.

Also one thing to keep in mind. If you are running 2-3 or more valve cover ports to a catch can that has only 1 X" or example 3/8" exit breather, then your setup defeats the purpose. Make sure you put a breather or multiple breathers to allow proper ventilation according to number of vacuum tubes and their size.

And I also noticed on some of the setups people are still recirculating back into the intake manifold. The valve cover does not need to have a vacuum source attached, its just their for emissions purpose. But if your running a catless exhaust, whats the point?

Here is a setup my engine builder suggested. This involves running two cans.

One can will be vented and come from the side cover port. The second will run from the back port into a second can and run in some where on the bottom. Keep the PCV on. Then run a line from the top of the can to the turbo intake. Inside the second can put some steel mesh inside.

This will allow you to vent pressure as well as keep oil and whatever **** is in it from circulating through the system. And you shouldn't have problems with oil all over the engine bay.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...cv-system.html is a good read


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...4&d=1270504361

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/atta...5&d=1270504361

these 2 seem to be the best route for my setup. i think the max pressure relief and then just place a krank vent/ check valve such as http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489

or similar in between the pcv hose.

on a metered air setup for maf its recommended to dump them back into the air intake pipe rather then dump to atmosphere, plus it will get vacuum from the intake pipe, but i dont think it really matters if its blown to atmosphere. personally i like the atmosphere idea better, but it seems the extra vac produced from the turbo does assist in removal of gases from the crank cover.. so im debating what to do right now.

^^^holy crap thats a long read...good read though...

Subscribed. Good info

Creamo--- I got the catch can from summit racing.. it is your simple all star catch can, I believe AMS sells it also.

Tcompusa--- I previously had a set up like what you had illustrated in diagram number two, basically two catch can, that were filled with steel wool, and then plumbed back to the intake pipe, I had a lot of problems with this set up, basically oil would get sucked into the intake system and my 35r would be spinning in a bath of oil. Once I went to the set up that I indicated earlier in this thread ( the problems ) went away. Personally I see no need to plumb it back to the intake, because the last thing that I want to see is oil in my intake system.

If I was you , I would run what you showed in diagram number 1, with the exception of plumming it back to the intake

I was told by saikou michi (http://www.saikoumichi.com/) to use the max pressure relief setup, which is basically what you recommended but you said the wrong number. It is basically the same setup you have now minus it is not vented off the catch can.

You're recommending me not to recirculate it back to the intake pipe because you feel it will make a mess, but i dont think it will. If you have a properly baffled catch can it will not allow any of that oil in. By plumbing to the intake pipe you also allow the sucking of vacuum to help eleviate the crankcase pressure as well.

I beat on my car pretty bad when I take it out.. I am WOT about 70% of the time im out with the car everytime. I never seen oil in my air intake pipe before and i recirculate it into there now.

I think i may use another catch can as well in between the pcv along with a krankvent to assure there is no leakage of the pcv under boost and also and to keep the intake manifold clean of oil as well.

it would make sense to block air intake pipe and vent the can to the atmosphere but forced performance told me not to do it that way.

Its your car and you can do what you want, but im sure you will end up with oil being sucked in the turbo and coating everything up to the valves. Keep an eye on it, if the compressor blades have any oily film on them, consider that a warning sign.

Well right now there is no oil in there, but this is the stock setup so possibly it may push oil in there with more pressure relief. I can vent it its no big deal, i change my oil every 1k anyways and i dont really think its going to do much as far as MAF metering air goes to effect the cars cruise ability.

So it sounds like you recommend venting it then. Maybe I can vent it and also run the stock size tube from the can to the intake pipe so it still sucks a little vacuum?

I have a few options here..........

1. I could go the route Warren and fathouse did and run 2 big vents off to a vented catch can
or

2. I could still do the 2 vents + add another can inbetween the stock pcv and intake manifold to catch oil residue plus put an additional check valve inline to assure the stock pcv doesnt open as well..

or i could drill out the stock pcv part in the back to be bigger, but honestly i dont think that is neccessary with the 2 huge tapped vents coming out the driver side valve cover like Warren and Fathouse.

im gonna go with #2 and i will just vent the can and see how the car reacts that way first. Ill have that guy make me a custom 2 connected cans so i can run to the pcv also to avoid any mess in the intake manifold.
I think you're right im gonna get oil blowby in the air intake pipe no matter how good the baffling is also.. theres no where else for all that pressure to go.

get an oil catch can, run a hose from valve cover to catch can, and from catch can to turbo intake, 24/7 vaccum ftw

gl

i had a crank case issue also. in the end i tapped my valvecover,put -12an fittings,ran lines to the catchcan, and wired up a vacuum pump that kicks on at 15psi. sucks pressure out of can. havent had an issue since then.

what pump?

im interested in the pump also. have any pics? sounds neat.

I just dump the oil straight back into the inspection hole in the block. No need for any of the water separator garble (why would you have a water/oil separator if you are just venting to atmosphere :confused:)cor any over engineered solutions here! No emptying, no worries!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...lls-catch4.jpg

as long as you understand you're diluting your oil with fuel and other misc gases that will end up in your catch can. theres no way around not getting water/fuel in your catch can from what ive read. i know hal's oil cap really releases a crapload of oil, but that catch can is still going to end up with vapors and you're recirculating it throughout your engine. you should do a oil analyzes after running it for 1k miles id be interested in seeing what it does. i was gonna do the same thing you're doing there but i dont want my oil being overly contaminated.

he has a water/oil seperator between the pcv and intake manifold , his catch can is just for the 2 big lines he has running off the side of his valve cover.. has nothing to do with pcv / intake manifold.

when i would empty my catch can it was 60% water, 30% milky oil-sludge and 10% oil. VTA 4 LIFE SON! :lol:

I'd argue that there is less gas and fuel than is thought. When it sits there the water/fuel mix condenses into the oil making that sludge. If you don't allow the condensation to happen it is not any different than the water vapor currently in the engine. Additionally, I am using a baffle that lets the vapor leave and keeps the oil in the system.

Good idea. I'll check do an analysis to see what is really happening next change I do!

well i recommend sending it to blackstone im curious what it reads. i know that cap releases A LOT of pressure and it definitely works very well.

Correct me if I am just missing something here but isnt the top image only going to half work?

The catch can outputs on to the intake manifold which is obviously post turbo, so the intake mani is obviously gonna be pressureized. So to me it seems like no vapors will flow into the manifold unless the pressure from the catch can is greater than that of the pressure in the intake manifold.

Now I am not sure how much pressure is being exhibited inside our crank cases but if your running 33psi of boost it just seems liek crankcase pressure would be less than that.

i think you're confused. the only reason for the catch can at the pcv > intake manifold side is to stop oil from entering the intake manifold like it does. so you put a catch can in the middle of the process then you put a check valve in there as well on the line going back to the intake manifold so the pressure can not come back from the intake manifold and pressurize the catch can.

you should read the dsmlink thread i posted if the forums up. that forums up and down all day long LOL.

I think your confused to what I'm saying. I know what the check vavle does but what I am saying is since the vapor isnt going to flow int othe intake manifold due to the pressure why have a line running to it to beging with. Air/vapor wont flow into the intake manifold from the catch can due to the pressure inside the intake manifold and it wont from from the intake manifold into the catch can as the check vavle wont allow it...so why have the line there at all?

i believe it has something to do with vacuum. you might want to ask the guy that made the diagram not me. i just read all the content over at dsm he wrote and hes very smart. theres good info over there since i guess lots of them guys have blowby issues.

on my dsm's i just put a fuel filter inline and that was that lol, but i need to actually get rid of pressure now because im experiencing so much pressure without the dipstick retention the dipstick would prob dent the hood LOL. and i understand the retention spring is just a bandaid fix for something that needs fixed!

lol Im not blaming you but reading the article it seems to contridict itself.

So when exactly is this PCV vavle open? I dont see when the air will flow between the two.

pcv valve is open when you idle.... have you ever blew in a pcv valve? if you blow in hard it will close but if you blow in soft it stays open. i was just going to cap off the intake manifold and run it to the ground but people told me not to do that lol.

the pcv is open under vacuum and under boost it closes to stop the valve cover from being pressurized, which it clearly doesnt work to well, which is why i got a krank vent to put inline to help assist it.

look at map's rx7 lol biggest ventilation setup ive seen in my life. 3 huge -12 an or bigger connectors sticking out of their valve cover.

wish i could find the damn picture.

Well if thats how it does it the article isnt very clear :lo: it lead me to believe the damn PCV valve is closed all time. But I just find it odd also that it closes under boost but thats when blow by is at its worst and therefore needs to be ventilated most.

I think connecting it to the IM is a large oversight on the engineers part unless I am missing something. Preturbo seems like the only viable option if you are gonna route it back into the intake plumbing.

well its supposed to shut 100% when in boost but the oem one sucks and it will not hold much past 20psi.

it is designed the way it is so it shoots the crankcase pressure under normal driving into the intake manifold and gets burned off. emission crap

Yeah but runnign it pre turbo will still burn it off, and give the benefit of always sucking the air outta the crank case...maybe I'm missing something its 6am here and I'm just finishing up shift so I'm tired :lol:

ya youre correct. plumbing it back to the air intake pipe will be better then venting to atmosphere but the thing is oil comes with that and then soils your intake pipe.. so thats why guys are just venting it off. i was going to recirculate it back and still might to test but im sure its going to make a mess. so i may well not even waste my time.

im gonna try these krank vents first i got from map and see what they do lol. only 50 bux and they been in garage forever now. take 2 seconds to install.

What about 2 catch cans in series...I thought the whole point of the catch can was to keep the oil outta the intake tract.

well its to release crankcase pressure and ya to keep the oil out of the ic piping and intake manifold etc.. im just going with a vented can and using my krank vents also. im gonna put the krank vents on first and see what the car does lol. im gonna most likely run a 2 catch can type deal and vent it keep oil out of both intake tracts.

Let me know how it works out. And your gonna VTA and into the intake tract?

after 2,000 miles or so when the rings finally seal its not going to be such a hassle. :lol:

whats vta? :o OOPS nevermind....... vent to atmosphere :lol:

im going to do this: http://www.saikoumichi.com/PhotoBorderTemplateDC3.png

except one can will have a air filter on it and then connecting the line that goes to air intake it will go directly to can instead.

then another to interrupt the pcv and intake manifold ordeal.

:lol: ya. the other one didnt get a chance to fully seal i ran it out of oil :crap: now that i think about it tho i bet the turbo was burning the oil off because i was using stock pcv stuff then also. :(

You can run an oil separator with a vacuum pump, which works great but can get expensive.

I've already emailed Saikou back and forth and figured out which setup I want to go with and its pretty much the same as the one in your picture above...I like your idea of having a little breather filer on the one side of the catch can that is supposed to go back into the intake...So will you be using the MAP krankcase vents and the Saikou catch can? Will you put the MAP krankcase vent in the line from the PCV valve to catch can or catch can back to the intake manifold?

both. im going to put one right after the pcv to strengthen the pcv side so it doesn't leak into the valve cover and im going to put one in-between the can and the intake manifold so it doesn't pressurize the can.

heres what im doing:

can #1: 1 1/2" breather filter ontop, 1 5/8" nipple going directly to the valve cover where I will drill out the existing hole on the driver side to fit a 1/2" NPT to 5/8" outlet where the can will connect to. If I find I need to drill another hole on the side I will, but im going to try 1 first because JID told me it will sling more oil then if i enlarge the existing hole, since theres more baffling from the factory around the existing ones inside. JIDS a road course guy, and thats about how i drive on road, im WOT 70% of the time with my car because I live in an area where there is tons of open road.

can #2: Not really needed, but going to do it anyways to keep the intake tract clean and keep vapors out of engine bay rather then block intake manifold off. This can will basically just be a middle man for the pcv to intake manifold, instead of having a tube that just goes to the pcv to intake manifold there will be as follows:

oem pcv > map krankcase vent > catch can sealed

then the other nipple on that can will be: krankcase vent > intake manifold

Keeping this side 3/8" no need to enlarge it.

and that is all. This should relieve all pressure, if not i will drill another relief hole in the valve cover and that will be that. im not plumbing it back to the air intake because its pointless after you vent the can, and i know it will make a mess and i read oil particles hitting a turbo blade spinning so fast can actually damage it over time.

If you want cheaper krank vents get the check valves here they will withstand 150psi and 30in/hg vacuum: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489

MAP Ones: http://www.maperformance.com/kracka-...acuum-kit.html

I already have the MAP krankcase vents and used them on my old catch can setup...seemed to work well I guess...I think I am going to change my catch can setup to the same thing as yours...I like not having a line going back to the intake...I wish less oil came out of Hal's oil cap...I wouldn't mind trying to figure out a catch can with Saikou that routed the oil from Hal's cap into it but keep it a combined dual catch can setup...I don't want to have 2 catch cans in the engine bay...

Whats the effect on the MAF with not running it back to the intake?

Nothing...just put some caps on the nipples where those lines went to...its nothing like running a vta bov...

I would love to do a sealed PCV system with a crabkcase return with dual hoses goin to the intake. If you have the vent to the intake higher on the can than the input from the engine the liquids will fall out and drain into the return. If it is a sealed system there should be no extra moisture to worry about getting into the oil and contaminating it. If there is small amounts of oil getting back to the intake you could use some steel wool to slow the liquid down and help minimize that. However having a tight as new stock motor with stock turbo I have none of these issues now so just planning for the future.

no effects pretty much at all. i would like to run closed cans and have the turbo suck the vapors but it will end up making a mess in the air intake and im not interested in dealing with that. if the vented can doesnt work out ill try closed.. i have nothing to lose experimenting.

im just doin what i listed above and see how it works out. ill update the thread once i get everything ready.

Is the cause of this improperly gapped rings? Im trying to help a guy with the same issue on a 2.3 with only 1k on the motor. I just increased the size of the line, from valve cover to intake. Pulled the metal barb out, drilled the valve cover to 5/8" i.d. Welded a 3/4"o.d. Hose barb on the VC and intake. I don't know if it works yet as I'm waiting on the 3/4" silicone hose.

not necessarily the engine causing it, more so the amount of airflow you're now presenting to the engine.. WAY over factory pcv and ventilation limits.

Sounds like you're doing what im doing on that end..

1 big can with 1 5/8" nipple on it and venting can. the bigger the breather on the can the more its going to vent pressure .. i went with a 1 1/2" breather on the can.

then the valve cover tapped for 1/2" NPT and then the other side is 5/8" of course. im also using silicone hose also. I dont really need the bling :lol:

i think it will work, if not you can always drill another relief hole on the other side and if that dont work then nothing will :lol: