No. This is my current setup https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...7302897&type=3

I got rid of the FP black about 3 years ago or around there.

So I've been planning on drilling out the trans side outlet to help vent crankcase pressure but kept procrastinating since I never had issues so it was easy to put it off. Well, yesterday I popped out the dipstick made a huge mess and was such a headache.

Car is stock block but typical bolt-ons BBK Full 30#. Current crankcase setup is stock routing with the PCV as well as Boomba check valve and a Saikou-Michi Dual catch can. I dont want to delete my PCV or run VTA. It seems all I need is top open up the trans side and I should be fine.

I pulled out that side nipple but am concerned that when I go to drill it I am going to run out of room since the hole is kinda close to the top of the valve cover already. Can this be done with a hand drill or does it need to be done with a drill press so it can be drilled offset?

My catch cans are 1/2" inlets so I was probably just going to use a 1/2" barb. Is this going to be enough? Any advice or things I need to take into account? I plan to drill out the baffles as well as that seems like the safest option. There are good writeups on that but I havent found anything good for drilling and taping the trans side vent.

Tom where did you get that fitting and should I go with a 5/8" instead of 1/2"? I could probably stretch the 1/2" rubber hose to fit on 5/8 if that would be better. Any advice that you have for safe and proper drilling, what size drill bit I should use, what my technique should be what tap I will need and where to get a good fitting would be much appreciated:beer:

I honestly do not remember anymore im sorry. If you dig in this thread you might find me mentioning the ebay id's of the auctions though.

All you need is enough to relieve the pressure. Im not sure how much that is honestly, but what I did 5/8 got the job done.

The main reason for a catch can is to catch oil. Really the only place that a can is needed is between the valve cover and intake manifold, to stop oil from entering the plenum.

However you can just cap it and completely seperate the two alltogether. I have tuned cars with every combination possible, and never noticed any issues with either or routing.

Then you have the other method of a can inbetween the valve cover and intake pipe to connect the two to have a venturi type affect from the turbo vacuum'ing out the excess pressure that way.

I've done every option there was, and just ended up with what you responded to in that picture. I still use a spring on my dipstick, but one day after I checked my oil I forgot to connect it back and did around 20+ pulls at 750-800+ whp level and the dipstick did not budge at all. So I wouldnt be afraid to say this entirely cures the dipstick movement as well.

I've taken a look at my intake plenum after 500+ hard miles and no oil in it and im still using the pcv.

Pretty much everything mentioned in this thread will work, it just depends on what you want to do.

I would recommend doing what I did with the 5/8 opening on the side since it cured all my problems.

I do remember i drilled, tapped, and screwed that fitting in. I also remember taking grease on a zip tie and getting every last bit of debri out, loading it up with tons of brake cleaner and water and just really making sure i got everything out, since i did not remove baffles.

This was all done years ago when this thread was started, and im still using the same valve cover with no issues :) So if you do it safely you dont have to remove the baffling.

use a -10 to 5/8' pipe fitting. Use a unibit. The 1/2 pipe requires a 23/32" hole. You start the hole a little below the current OEM hole, and the unibit will make it easy to drill the new hole with the bit sliding into the old one. Once the unibit gets to 11/16", you'll use a standard 23/32" drill bit to drill the through the steps left by the uni bit, and get to the final size for the pipe tap. Thread it with a pipe tap and you're all set. Clean it out thoroughly (easy to do without removing the baffling with the big hole in the cover).

Thanks for the feedback guys. I've been rereading this thread as well as others regarding drilling and tapping the vc. I also have a spare cracked valve cover which is perfect to "test" on...

Tom I found the fitting you linked prior: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330327737920...p=mtr#shpCntId

What's interesting about my situation is that my car engine wise really hasnt changed since last year and this was the first time I ever popped out the dipstick. So while I know the culprit and its about time I do something about it Im just wondering why it happened now as opposed to earlier...

I have actually never used a unibit but after reading other threads that seems to be the consensus. Thank you very much for the step by step it seems very straight forward.

The only thing I am confused on is your fitting recommendation...My catch can currently has 1/2" lines on them. I do not plan on doing AN lines but rather just a barb fitting. Im thinking I could stretch the 1/2" line onto a 5/8" and itll be fine like the fitting above. Would you recommend something different? And where can I get some good quality silicon hose that is 1/2"

Have you turned your boost up? If you run more boost, you will be more prone to popping the dipstick out.

Could also be the oring on the dipstick needs refreshed. In and out a bunch of times the oring on the dipstick will become weaker and weaker.

you can just use a 1/2" pipe to 1/2" barb fitting if that is what your catch can has, and you don't want to use AN fittings.


As for hose, I would go to a hydraulic/heavy equipment shop and get push lok hose. Parker and Aeroquip make it, its good stuff.

Boost hasnt been changed since last season. Car spikes ~30# maybe 31# in 4th. Stock ventilation BBK Full. But the dipstick didnt pop out once all last season which has been >15000mi since I dd the car and ~20 auto-x events. Maybe the o-rings have worn out but even so improving ventilation can only help.

I dont mind going 5/8" thinking it'll improve flow. The fitting Tom has (I think) is a 1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb. Im thinking I'll be able to stretch the hose over a 5/8" fitting. I know it'll bottleneck with a smaller hose but the ID of the fitting is probably larger than a 1/2" NPT to 1/2" barb.

I dont mind doing an AN on the VC since its just a matter of buying the right fittings and I'll be tapping it anyway but dont care to modify my current catch can setup.

Can I use the push lok hose with an AN fitting on the VC side and then on the catch can side just slip it over and use a worm clamp? I dont see why not...really just looking for higher quality hose that is more flexible than the standard rubber heater hose I have on there now. The line that runs from my OCC to my pre turbo intake tube has to do a 180 and I want more flexibility to ensure it doesnt get kinked...

You could probably get regular 1/2" hose onto a regular 5/8" hose barb. But push lok fittings are oversized, and the push lok hose is undersized, It typically requires heating the hose in boiling water, and using silicone spray lub to get push lok fittings together lol.


You could easily run 1/2 pipe, to 10an at the valve cover, then run a 10an hose to your catch can and then use a worm clamp to clamp it on. Make sure the hose to your turbo inlet is 1/2" or 5/8" too.


Better hose isn't necessarily more flexible. With hose, better typically means it can handle higher pressure, which means its stiffer and harder to bend. It still kinks if bent too much. I think parker actually lists a minimum bend radius for their hose.

Hmmm this is all good info to know, thanks for your continued support. You seem to be quite knowledgeable and answer all of my silly questions so thank you sir!

I've never worked with AN fitting before so learning little tidbits about various hoses and fittings is all very beneficial.

Anyway back to the topic at hand and my main objective which is releaving excess crankcase pressure so my dipstick won't pop out again. As I mentioned prior my PCV is staying and given the stock block it seems I can get away from solely opening up the trans side. But the question is how much? I know this is impossible as every situation is different and I would need to log the pressure.

In Tom's case he used a 1/2" NPT to 5/8" barb and that worked for him. But I can't seem to find the ID of said fitting. Now obviously a 5/8" barb is meant to work with 5/8" ID hose but maybe it's limited by the 1/2" NPT? Since I already have 1/2" lines I'd rather just go with 1/2" all around.

I guess what Im getting at is, is there any benefit to going with a 5/8" barb or -10AN(depending on which route I choose to go) assuming its still going to mate up to a 1/2" hose? Or why even go to 5/8" or -10AN if the fitting is still only a 1/2"NPT?

From purely a flow perspective it seems like you initial recommendation of 5/8NPT to -10an would be the best route to take. From a quick search though Im not sure said fitting exists...As I think about this I think that was just a typo because you say 1/2" pipe right after...

So if no matter what how large you make it the bottleneck is still the 1/2" fitting it seems silly to go any larger. Am I being dense here?

And then then is the hose. Depending on what fitting I go with will help dictate that decision. You make a good point about quality of hose vs flexibility and durability. I think normal heater hose has a burst pressure of >50# and I've had no issues with mine so its not from a durability perspective but rather flexibility. For that reason it seemed that something Silicone based would be my best bet.

1/2" NPT fittings are 1/2" ID, when referring to anything pipe, the size is the ID of the fitting or pipe itself. The ID of a 5/8" barb, and most 10an fittings is about 1/2", 10an hose is 5/8.

If I said 5/8" NPT, it was a typo. It doesn't exist lol. So I def meant 1/2 NPT. Sorry for the confusion lol.

No worries that makes perfect sense now. So I now know that it will be a 1/2"NPT which will require a 23/32 bit and your method described prior starting below with a unibit and finishing off with normal bit sounds easy enough.

But if the pipe is only 1/2" where it threads into the valve cover then why even bother going with a hose that is ID of 5/8"? Im guessing because the ID of the -8AN fitting is now less than 1/2" thus sacrifising flow?

Totally overthing this like always...

Seems like Im leaning towards doing the 1/2"NPT to -10AN to this fitting http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbl1524/overview/ and -10AN socketless hose and then just using a worm clamp to the side that mates up to my 1/2" catch can inlets.

But another side just thinks keep it simple with decent flexible hose and a barbed 5/8" to 1/2"NPT...decisions decisions

Yes, -8an fittings are typically .370-.390 ID. The sizing for AN refers only to the hose, the fittings are always about .125 smaller ID than the hose. Just the way it is..

Thanks again. So I'm finally making some progress here...-8an is out of the question.

Still undecided whether I splurge for AN stuff or just a barbed fitting. If I go barbed fitting I'll do 5/8 though so its not bottlenecked by the fitting. That should give me close to 1/2" ID if its similar to AN in terms of size. Then I guess I could just squeeze a 1/2" hose onto the fitting and it wont limit flow since its the same ID as the fitting. I dont see how going with a 5/8" hose would make a difference with a fitting that has a smaller ID. But I also don't have a good grasp on fluid dynamics so I may not understand flow and bottlenecks properly...

However on the other end of the spectrum if I go AN it'll have to be a -10an hose so it'll work with the -10an fitting. But ~1/2" ID on the fitting and 1/2" inlet on my catch can means I may not be reaping the benefits of a larger hose.

You're thinking about it too much.

Do the 1/2" pipe to 5/8" barb, try and squeeze the 1/2" hose on it. If you can't get it on, go get a 1/2" pipe to 1/2" barb. Test it. If it alleviates your problem, great!

If it doesn't, you're going to be out about, at most, $20 for the two pipe to barb fittings, oh wel. At this point, I would switch to 10an, have your catch modded for 10an inlets and outlets, and put a 10an fitting on the turbo inlet so you have all 5/8 hose and 10an. Your valve cover will already be drilled and tapped to 1/2 pipe, so you won't have to remove it again.

For what its worth, I see the first scenario working just fine. However, the AN fittings all Ano'd black with black hose looks pretty awesome :P. I'll take some pics of my setup and put them in here once my car goes back together.

Lol, thanks again and you're right I am thinking about this too much. It's just what I do by nature, I guess I would be considered a stable analytic...

So I finally pulled the trigger. What you just spelt out was pretty much my exact thought process. And I was about to go with the barbed fitting and then I just said f it and opted to go the AN route.

Its a better setup will look nicer and will make removing things easier down the road. One of the things I never liked about my current setup was that I welded a 1/2" pipe onto my BR intake pipe to complete my closed setup. However, where I have my cans positioned made it impossible to run the hose straight to it and caused probably too sharp of a turn and potentially kinked the line. This is why I wasn interested in a more flexible hose.

Instead since I like the idea of the AN pushlok stuff that you recommended I picked up a -10an weld ARP bung that will be welded to my intake pipe. Then I also grabbed a 120 degree pushlok fitting which should give the line an easy way to connect without kinking anything.

I also got both a 45 and a straight fitting for attaching to the valve cover so I will see which one fits better. Plus with 10' of hose if I choose to do so down the road I can always convert everything over to AN fittings. I ended up spending way more than I could have gotten away with had I just went with a simple barbed fitting but I think I'll will be happier with this setup especially if my connection to my intake is cleaner.

The only uncertainty I have now is how well the -10AN hose is going to fit on my 1/2" inlets on my catch cans but I'm sure it'll be fine as you said its tighter than other hoses and I read that it actually shrinks under pressure which I found to be interesting...

But anyway thanks again for your continued support:beer:

I don't know about it shrinking under pressure, but a good worm clamp will hold it on fine. Especially since there is very little pressure in those lines.

Yeah it should be fine. The only side under pressure would be coming from the IM at least until the check valve that I have and if that becomes an issue I can always purchase some sort of adapter.

But thanks again for your feedback, I appreciate it.

Oh and their website states the hose contracts but Im not sure how much of that is marketing hype...http://aeroquipperformance.com/p-240...tml#socketless

Tom,
do you thing that this 10an fitting directly on crankcase will be enough?
VTA or connect it to intake?

Attachment 273101
Attachment 273102
Attachment 273103

You're going to need to baffle that, or its going to push A LOT of oil...

I'm not sure if a baffle will be required because the direction of the crank turning clockwise and the vent is on the top right side if you look to the engine from cam-side...
but I might be wrong :D


we'll see once I crank it up :)

How would you baffle the 10an fitting?
Can you send me some link of a baffle that would with a 8an fitting?

You would have to build one. They don't just sell them..

I just wanted to pop back in here and say thanks to those who provided feedback and advice whether direct or indirect. I bit the bullet and drilled out my valve cover this past weekend to fit a 1/2"NPT to -10AN fitting. I also opted to drill out the baffle and tap it which was a thrilling task. It wasn't hard but certainly time consuming. Hopefully the red locktite will do its job none of my bolts will back out.

Anyway, onto the pictures...I always forget to take photos but did snap one right before I put the vc back on (yes, its blurry but its not an exciting photo anyway!)

Attachment 273064

Attachment 273065

I'd like to measure my set-up. Mychailo, where did you place your pressure sensor to capture crankcase pressure?

tnx

I drilled out a spare oil filler cap. Several mods had to be made:

1) Replace the nut and bolt under the sticker with a screw that threads from the inside of the cap. This is a little dodgy because if the screw falls out, the screw and the metal tab that secure the cap to the valve cover will fall into the motor. I didn't plan on running this filler cap permanently, so I was ok with it.
2) Tap the recess under the sticker for 1/8" NPT.
3) Angle drill a through hole that enters the recess. Has to be done from the bottom side of the cap.

All-in-all, it was a pretty easy solution.

Maybe I missed it- what kind of pressure readings did you get mrfred?


Thinking about drilling out the balance shaft locking access hole and tapping it to something a little bigger and putting a fitting there before I put my block together... i can imagine a lot of oil is being flung around there, but with a long enough hose going up and/or a catch can, I wonder how well this would work?

Its in Nimpoc's post above mine. Stock ventilation was almost 3 psi. Removing the PCV system, attaching a 5/16" nipple in place of the PCV valve, and running 3/8" hose brought crankcase pressure down to ~0.75 psi. -8 AN fittings with 1/2" hose on both the breather and PCV openings brought it down to <0.2 psi, probably ~0.1 psi.

interesting, thanks!

I removed my pcv, had a catch can on the stock breather, put a 5/8" fitting in the front of the valve cover to another catch can, and made my own vented dipstick... but my previous 2.4 was bored WAY too loose.... shouldn't be an issue now. Might vent the balance shaft hole while I'm in there, and if it loses too much oil from there I will plug it again. I think with this many sources to breathe from, there shouldn't be too much airflow down any one hole and carry too much oil out..just a theory though.

"Good Siphon Attachment"?
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrfred View Post
I've got measurements on various setups dispersed throughout this thread. Quick summary for my built motor is (all values are peak and occurred at WOT max RPM):
Completely stock: ~2.7 psi (IIRC) out the the top.
Stock breather with 3/8" hose and fittings (approx -6 AN) VTA on the PCV side: ~0.75 psi.
1/2" hose and fitting VTA on breather with PCV side plugged: ~0.2 psi.
I figure that 5/8" hose and fittings VTA should be good for ≤0.1 psi, and 1/2" or 5/8" with a good siphon attachment to the intake pipe might pull a slight vacuum, at least for my motor.

mrfred....can you elaborate on what your definition of a "good siphon attachment" would be?

A nipple that attaches to the intake pipe at a 45 degree angle is a good start. The effect can be enhanced by building a flow obstruction on the inside of the intake pipe just before the nipple inlet (close to the nipple, between the nipple and the air filter).

I didn't realize you completely blocked off the PVC and VTA'd the rear vent. I gotta do something for mine here soon, might have to come over and pick your brain again.

Hi all I have a 2.3 fp black bb build and I'm wondering your opinion on the proper catch can/pcv setup.

the car is speed density and has -6AN from pcv side and drivers side to a 3 port stm dual breather filter vented square catch can mounted below the intake/on the trans. third port on stm catch can is vac line to the 4" speed density intake to pull vacuum.

I was having issues losing oil when the 3rd port on catch can was capped off as well as the nipple on the intake. I believe out of exhaust.

does this sort of setup seem okay and is the 3rd port on the can being a vacuum line back to a nipple on the intake potentially causing any issues?

thanks!!

You need to upgrade the fittings and lines to 8an or 10an...

i'm trying to figure out if the routing/overall setup is OK and if the vacuum from the catch can to the intake is correct.

I dont think going from -6 to -8 or -10 is going to make a big difference. the car is only running 27psi.

-6an to -10an is 3x the area. If 6 isn't quite big enough it could be a big difference.

For FP turbos it will make a huge difference. You will burn oil until you correct the crank case pressure to < 0.5psi. Using -10 on both sides was needed to correct my crank case pressure. Having just a single -10 and a 3/8 was too little ventilation.

thanks for the info. oil was burning like a mofo with my setup (bought the car built) until I got it to where it is now. things seem okay...

what is your exact setup?

My car was "only" running 24 psi and dual -6 vents weren't enough. Just because 25 psi isn't the 40-50psi the guys in the hunt for 4 digit power numbers doesn't mean its not a lot of boost. Its almost 2 whole extra atmospheres, its a lot.

One of the vents should be VTA or have a pcv valve and go to the intake manifold. And the other vent should go to the turbo inlet pipe.

You have them both going to one stm catch can. Does the catch can VTA and have a line going to the intake pipe? If so, its probably fine. You just need to make the lines/fitting bigger..

OK so I should upgrade from -6 vents to -8 or -10?

Right now I have the big square STM catch can with two VTA filters on the top. It has 3 ports.

One port goes to pcv side, one port goes to drivers side, and the third port is a vacuum line to a nipple on the 4" speed density intake.

Is this setup OK likely? The third port WAS to STM vented dipstick but catch can was filling up with straight oil, very quickly. I then capped the dipstick and third STM can port and then oil was leaving out of the exhaust I believe at a very rapid pace. I then added the vac line from 3rd port on catch can to the intake nipple and oil consumption is now very minimal so I thought I had it worked out.

that setup is good. If you think the turbo is still leaking, upgrade the size of one of the lines. The PCV would be easiest since stm sells a -10 fitting for there. then you just need to weld a -10 fitting on the catch can and you should be good.

Thanks for the support. The oil level has been pretty stable in my testing after these changes so I will continue to monitor and go from there.

so what is the basic consensus? can we update first page of thread?

1. drill out driver side vent hole to 5/8 and connect to intake.

2. rear vc port, remove pcv, cap intake manifold and run vta catch?

3. optional -> balance shaft peep hole?

i having massive pop outs on my 2.3 spring holding it down, but engine is consuming oil too i think.

Attachment 328229


my question is, why even have the check valve to intake manifold? and why not just block it off. and run vacuum to that catch on the left like the one on the right? wouldn't that be ideal?

also how do i get -10 for the front of valve cover i only see STM make the rear one.

The intake pipe can see some positive pressure when you lift from WOT. So you don't want both lines going to it.

The driver side has to he drilled and tapped for a 1/2" pipe fitting. Then you get s 1/2 pipe to 10an adapter fitting and go from there.

links? im not aure what im lookjg for exaxtly. there is still no "how to" or sticky. which i will be assembling after figuring it all out.

does anyone have pics of their mounting loctions? and what fittings you selected when you purchaded the catch can from radium.

single/dual? kit ?

I finally got my car together, I'll post some pics tonight. The radium can are all 10an fitting. So you just need male-male 10an unions.


This is what I did on the driver side of the valve cover where the existing vent is..

when you build boost, you would be forcing that air into the valve cover. you have to have a check valve if the PCV is running to the IM.

do you think the split second it's pressurized would cause that much of an issue? the trade off would be a ton of vacuum pulling from the valve cover.

How do I know if I need to do this?

I have a 2.3 stroker, FP black ball bearing, S2 cams etc.

My oil dip stick has never been pushed out.

I sent a email to FP when I bought my turbo (a year ago) about this, and they said it was one case over many more with no problems, so I didn't do anything.

if you are blowing smoke or popping your dipstick you will want to vent. i was going to do it just in case... but PD in my area would send me to the smog ref. i'm hoping i don't need it.
{thumbup}

so this is what the vta kit comes with, ehat else do i need to order to oroperly do this?

or should i be getting the recirculating version? it doesnt say what that kit comes with thoug

Crankcase VTA Catch Can Kit:
-Billet oil catch can with integrated condenser and dipstick
-Laser cut powder coated LH mounting bracket
-Enough -10AN (5/8") black PCV hose for all applications
-Radium 14-0136 -10AN Hose End, 2pc 90deg for push-lok hose
-Radium 14-0213 -10AN Hose End, 90deg push-lok hose end
-Radium 20-0050 barb fitting with air filter breather
-10AN male aluminum weld-on bung
-Vacuum caps for 3/8" barb
-Stainless steel mounting hardware

Well, my setup has one line (10an) to the inlet pipe, and the other line is (6an) PCV to the intake manifold. And my red doesn't seem to smoke. I was considering just getting rid of the PCV and going VTA on that side because even with 6an on the pcv side the idle settings are all really low to get the car to idle well. I had 10an pcv before, and it wouldn't let the car idle below 1300...lol

i ordered the -10an STM Push, and two 1/2" NPT to -10 adapter for intake.

i contacted radium about getting a setup that will be compatible fittings see what they say back.

interesting info. i was gonna just do vent to a catch can and block off the IM port.

As of right now I have one -10 sealed can from valve cover to intake but using only 1/2" inlet and outlet barbs on the can itself.

The other line was from the valve cover to the intake manifold. That still pushed some smoke between shifts, so I blocked off the intake manifold side and vented only that can to atmosphere. This can is small as well and uses a -10 line, but with 1/2" barb inlet to a 3/8" outlet. I need to get a bigger vta can for the rear valve cover and add a dipstick vent. There is just so much pressure at 35-40psi its ridiculous. I still need a spring on my dipstick to keep from blowing out, but it is not as bad as it was before the catch cans.

Probably going to be calling stm by the end of the summer when I go to drive the car again for their wall mounted catch can and dipstick vent.

Yes I think it still has the potential to push oil out the turbo relief valves. Its not about time, but about pressure seen in the crank case.

I talked with MrFred a bit about my setup and this is what I've come up with as a start. Since the factory setup under boost only has the one vent (PCV close) which is tiny, I think opening up the 2nd port with a -10 will by itself be a massive improvement.

I don't really want to VTA though I might temporarily till I get another port on the intake pipe. This way will let me keep PCV function, and vent through a -10 port to either VTA or Intake. Crankcase vent side will just have the standard STM -6 port added and ran like factory to intake pipe.

All the parts are on order, just gotta play the waiting game.

Attachment 328200

Looks good, but the oem pcv tends to leak from my experience. Might want to consider a second check valve inline with the pcv to ensure no boost is escaping from the intake manifold. The pcv should stay in place to meter the air allowed into the intake manifold.

Good point, I might add another check valve inline with PCV as you said. Its a lot of valves but they're pretty unobtrusive in the flow direction from what I've heard.

US Plastics makes one that I use. TSCOMPUSA linked the part number in this thread somewhere if I recall. It has a .1 psi crack pressure and holds up to 100 or 150psi.

i searched for a while... couldn't find it. would be handy. if anyone happens to find it, please post here?

I found that the OEM Evo PCV is great, but the NAPA etc PCVs leak badly.

Dallas, presumably you mean that line with the Boomba check valve can VTA or go to the intake pipe, correct?

Yeah, exactly. I think either way will work and its the nice thing about the orientation.

Thanks mrfred, I do not know which one is on my car at the moment.

That's a replica of my intake side as well, with the addition of a vent from the oil pan on the vacuum side.

I'm blowing some smoke.

The dipstick is ok.

I have read so many post, and so many different answers, I'm not sure what to do :S

I had 2.7 psi of crankcase pressure but the dipstick was not popping out. I believe that FP says they want less than 0.25 psi crankcase pressure.

If you pull off the intake pipe and find oil, then better ventilation is definitely needed. If no oil, then I think the smoke from the exhaust is being caused by something else.

smoke under acceleration, deceleration, or cruising?

Acceleration and cruising a little

Aah. Smoke while cruising may indicate a different problem?

That sounds like a ring sealing issue. I would do a comp and leak down test..

I'm not sure of it smokes when crusing, a friend told me once, but I haven't seen it in reaerview mirror

On WOT I saw ir once in the mirror

I will pull the intake and check for oil, and then see what needs to be done.

If it is crank case pressure, can it damage the turbo?

Thanks

Shouldn't damage the turbo, but will make a mess of your intake piping and intercooler.

It won't damage the seals, they're designed to relieve the excess pressure. Is what can happen is the leaking oil can coke up behind the turbine heat shield and can eventually cause the heat shield to rub on the turbine.

I like this concept as it might not require mods to the valve cover, but still gets you a flow improvement.

Are you doing anything about a catch on the Valve Cover side?
Mind posting a BOM?

Based on my pressure measurements, this should get the pressure in the valve cover down to around 0.25 psi which should relieve any issues for most people. The only drawback I've heard to using the PCV vent on the VC is that I was told by English Racing that under hard acceleration, that vent can get flooded with oil. I have yet to see it on my Evo, but I'm using a Kiggly HLA.

how are you measuring pressure in the engine?

finally installed -10an on PCV side (removed stock PCV) and VTA.
drilled/tapped -10an port on driverside, added a port to intake tube, connected.

no more dipstick blow outs, car seems to be noticeable smoother rpm without boost. and my vacuum now sits at -10 to -12 hg/in versus the -8 to -10 hg/in before capping the stock PCV.

anyone have trouble with the STM -10AN Push fitting coming out though? should i put loctite or RTV on it?

is it possible this could be effecting my tune though? seems to be rich and stutter in certain RPM now mostly mid-range goes straight 10.00afr

A -10 fits in the OEM PCV location? I've never tried.

Yes, STM sells the fitting to put in there.

Pressure sensor tapped into the oil filler cap. Sensor read by ECU and logged with EvoScan. I've got a detailed thread on it somewhere in EvoM, probably in the Engine/Turbo/Drivetrain section.

So I am going to be enlarging the VC side port to -10AN.

I was thinking about using this fitting: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...10561/10002/-1

Has anyone had any experience using this on the VC?

Don't bother with that. Use a 1/2" NPT to 10an. Drill and tap the valve cover for 1/2" NPT.

This Perrin catchcan looks much better then anything offered for the Evo's. It is also a heated can. I think I am gonna try it.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...27b6585656.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...27b6585656.jpg

They are for STI's, they have much more crankcase issues then Evo's, if it works for them it should work for us.

Original link: http://perrinperformance.com/i-14908...r-wrx-sti.html

it seems they do. if i'm reading the ad right, the Subaru has far better ventilation than our cars. they just have a poor method of disposing of the oil.
from what i've read in a Consumer Reports article linked here on EvoM, they need it as they have a ton of blow by and burn lots of oil. i can definitely see how a Suby would need this.
it couldn't hurt to adapt it to our cars, either. not having to empty it would be nice.

Why heat the can? Cooling improves condensation of oil, fuel, and water.

It makes sure the vaporized water leaving the motor makes its way through the AOS in vapor form instead of condensing back into a liquid inside the AOS. This is a must in cold weather. On other setups without heating you can see sludge forming in the can and hoses, especially in colder climates. That is what they claim.

if the water vapor cooled and condensed, wouldn't it then drain down with the oil?

What's the purpose of a catch-can if it doesn't keep oil and water from getting into the intake manifold or intake pipe?

it's not meant to be so much a catch can. theoretically, it receives the oil/air/water from the crank case and valve cover, then traps the oil to let it run back into the engine. the water and air are released back into the intake without the oil in it.

Baffles or not, its hard to believe that its possible to effectively separate oil vapor from water and fuel when everything is heated up to 150-200F.

One of the reason I want to try the Perrin is that this type of units have been tested for years now on the Subaru Platform, Drag, circuit everything. Lots of people did before and after and compared to other type of catchcans. They do seperate oil. I have seen tests where they connected the vent port to a can to look what comes out. Only water came out. Tested with connection to the intake, after many circuit days removed the intake no oil film on the walls.

links? i'm curious.

following.. i need a catch can.

No real need to follow. Just read. Plenty of info already here to put together a good setup..

So I am having an issue with my FP DBB Black.

I recently tapped my VC for a -10AN port on the side. Still running factory PCV and hose in the back.

Everytime I take my intake off there is a pool of oil in it. Oil is also seeping out of my bov around the v-band. This tells me the entire IC and IC piping are most likely coated with oil. If I go into boost, when the bov opens it literally sprays oil out.

I have a -8AN oil drain that is my next step to try and fix this issue.

Anyone have any input? Is it possible to put the oil drain on without pulling the turbo?

remove stock PCV and make it -10an as well. use a catch can and recirculate or vta.

recirc, as in back to the IM without a PCV????

That was my next move, but was hesitant since I have seen some people with issues when deleting the PCV.

I can get the -10AN fitting for the rear, but should I install a check valve inline with it if I do? If so, where can I get a check valve to fit inline with that large of a line size? Most setups ive seen with a big port on the back just route into a catch can with no check valve or pcv valve. Also should I just cap off the IM side?