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-   Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain-22/)
-   -   for anyone that has crankcase pressure issues (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/525004-anyone-has-crankcase-pressure-issues.html)

l2r99gst Nov 24, 2010 07:31 PM


Originally Posted by n2oiroc (Post 8864107)
im a proponent of keeping it as simple as possible. to me a pcv valve is another component that can fail and cause a headache. does it have benefits? sure! but its also a great spot for boost to get into the crankcase if it fails.

There's nothing wrong with your reasoning. As long as you are aware of the advantages and disadvantages both ways, then the choice is yours.


Originally Posted by buchnerj (Post 8864119)
I have run oil analysis on my oil changes before. I will do one after 1000 miles with the PCV deleted and try and show a change in water levels in the oil. I will post up my results to see if it really makes that big of a difference.

That would be a great test and I was going to suggest doing that. However, maybe not just 1000 miles. You have your old tests. Run a few more...3000 miles, 6000 miles, 10000, etc, etc and see if notice any particular trend. Water is one, but maybe increased metal levels somewhere else if the moisture is causing corriosion, etc.

tscompusa2 Nov 24, 2010 07:37 PM


Originally Posted by rodent (Post 8864131)
For drilling out the VC, I used one of these:
https://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:...unibit.gif&t=1
Worked great!

does that work better then a regular drill bit?

n2oiroc Nov 24, 2010 07:44 PM


Originally Posted by tscompusa (Post 8864145)
does that work better then a regular drill bit?

oh yeah, especially in thinner sheet metal. regular bits make triangular holes, unibits make round holes. harbor freight has a pack of 3 assorted sizes for $10 and they are decent quality.

JohnEB Nov 24, 2010 07:45 PM


Originally Posted by tscompusa (Post 8864145)
does that work better then a regular drill bit?

Only problem I found with that was it leaves a stair stepped hole.... A Forstner bit or flat bit or auger style works good too.... Your right though Shawn those do rock, I use mine a ton!

tscompusa2 Nov 24, 2010 07:46 PM

so link me to the bit you guys recommend lol. i havent bought the drill bit yet, just the tap so far. i have to use a smaller bit anyways to drill a hole lower and then connect it with the original since the hole sits so high on the valve cover. but link me to the bit that will make the final 5/8 hole the easiest

JohnEB Nov 24, 2010 07:50 PM


Originally Posted by tscompusa (Post 8864163)
so link me to the bit you guys recommend lol. i havent bought the drill bit yet, just the tap so far. i have to use a smaller bit anyways to drill a hole lower and then connect it with the original since the hole sits so high on the valve cover. but link me to the bit that will make the final 5/8 hole the easiest

If you want a clean hole then this is the type I recommend. If your going through thin metal then all in one posted will work.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi..._Bohrer_01.jpg

n2oiroc Nov 24, 2010 07:52 PM


Originally Posted by tscompusa (Post 8864163)
so link me to the bit you guys recommend lol. i havent bought the drill bit yet, just the tap so far. i have to use a smaller bit anyways to drill a hole lower and then connect it with the original since the hole sits so high on the valve cover. but link me to the bit that will make the final 5/8 hole the easiest

here are the bits i use, but for what you plan on doing you are probably going to need to do it with a strait bit and a board clamped to it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...lls-91616.html

rodent Nov 24, 2010 07:52 PM

Mine did a 3/4" hole without the step on my VII VC. The steps are wider on mine than in the picture. Worked better than I thought. They sell them at Harbor Freight. I used JB Weld to glue the -10AN bung but now I wish I would of tapped it and used a threaded bung.

Another way to tell if you're venting enough is to hook up a cheap boost/vacuum gauge to the VC one of the vent tubes and make sure you're not building pressure inside.

JohnEB Nov 24, 2010 07:53 PM

Your going 5/8 (npt)???

rodent Nov 24, 2010 07:56 PM


Originally Posted by n2oiroc (Post 8864175)
here are the bits i use, but for what you plan on doing you are probably going to need to do it with a strait bit and a board clamped to it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...lls-91616.html

Those are my bits.

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...image_2386.jpg
I used the one in the middle which explains why I did not stair step mine when doing a 3/4" hole.

I did not clamp mine down. The magnesium is like drilling through alum and it felt fine just holding it with one hand and drilling with the other. Clamp is always safer though.

JohnEB Nov 24, 2010 07:56 PM


Originally Posted by rodent (Post 8864176)
Mine did a 3/4" hole without the step on my VII VC. The steps are wider on mine than in the picture. Worked better than I thought. They sell them at Harbor Freight. I used JB Weld to glue the -10AN bung but now I wish I would of tapped it and used a threaded bung.

Another way to tell if you're venting enough is to hook up a cheap boost/vacuum gauge to the VC one of the vent tubes and make sure you're not building pressure inside.

Yeah I hear you.... The reason why I mentioned that is because I did a 3/8 npt. So I had to have it deep enough to tap it properly.

tscompusa2 Nov 24, 2010 07:57 PM


Originally Posted by JohnEB (Post 8864177)
Your going 5/8 (npt)???

my bad its 1/2 NPT lol. 5/8 would be insane

JohnEB Nov 24, 2010 07:59 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 290518

JohnEB Nov 24, 2010 08:00 PM


Originally Posted by tscompusa (Post 8864184)
my bad its 1/2 NPT lol. 5/8 would be insane

I was gonna say.... I was thinking you wouldn't have room... :lol:

n2oiroc Nov 24, 2010 08:01 PM

are you guys chiseling the baffles out then gluing them back in place or what?


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