which pipes do u suggest i check? I checked the IC piping leading to the Throttle body, from the IC, the intake is on snug to the turbo, BOV is doing fine, i tightened the clamps for the IC piping leading to the turbo, where else?

 

To check for boost leaks, check all joints between the turbo and your throttle body. There's a gasket between the turbo and turbo outlet elbow. Then there's the hose that connects the turbo outlet elbow to the lower ic pipe and from the lower ic pipe to the intercooler inlet. Check every joint on the upper ic pipe side. Perhaps the BOV has been reinstalled backwards.

As for why your car is now pulling to one side.. There are two bolts that mount the strut to the hub. The upper of the two is an eccentric bolt. Most likely, he put one on backwards and now your camber and toe are off. There's an arrow on the bolt head. Mine were both pointed inwards. Just make sure both sides are pointed either inwards or both outwards.

Do you have a shop manual? I really suggest you get one as the diagrams help tremendously.

 

No hha the bov is installed correct.... Yea u solved my prob...the bolts were put on in the opposite direction damn this mechanic!!...and ill have to take off the horrid undertray again and I guess the pipe connected to the turbo is loose. Wouldn't the idle be ****ty if the clamps were loose?

 

One problem down, a few more to go! I'd check all the wires leading up to your sensors. Perhaps they got damaged during the work.

The more things you take apart, the more things you have to troubleshoot once it's all back together. At least you've been forced to learn a lot about your car through this whole ordeal. This knowledge will definitely help you in the future when you mod your car more.

 

Im in shock just looking at those pics. When I did my clutch I didnt even have to take the Down Pipe loose, let alone remove the entire engine. Hind sites 20/20 but you shoulda made your mechanic follow Joes instructions exactly.
I feel really bad for you guys. You definitly need a new tranny with that mount broken off. One launch and its done. No question about it.

 

I never really saw how they changed the clutch on my Evo.. But I don't think they pulled out the engine in anyway..

 

Oh my god, I just noticed this post. I feel for you man . This is why I always recommend anyone to pay up and get a real PRO to do the job. IT took you guys over 30 hours . My record of replacing a stock Evo clutch is 2 hours and 15 minutes. but thats besides the point. Let this be a lesson to all on how not to try and save yourself some bucks. Get the job done right, no damage, happy customer. You should've shipped your Evo over to me, probably cheaper that all you headaches

Gil-superz

 

In my experience, boost leaks are rarely as easy as going in and tightening down the hose clamps. I suggest building a simple boost leak tester, connect it to the turbo inlet, pump air into the system and listen for leaks.

 

All you need to do to fix boost leaks is to go about it in a order method. In other words you need to follow the flow of air and recheck everything in its path. Stock hose clamps are no good and will expand when overtightened. Everyone should invest in t-bolt style clamps for the entire air path. If you still are having problems you should invest in taking the car to a quality technician, he should be able to fix all of your problems.

Gil-superz

 

Sometimes other things can leak though... TB seals, BISS, injectors, etc...

 

I hope you didn't pay that mechanic any money. He should be paying you money for your suffering.

 

if you have air in the clutch line that you need to bleed, it would be difficult to shift the. it seems you can shift okay. it means that your clutch is adjusted way too high, meaning, when you press the clutch pedal it pulls the pedal way too far from the flywheel and since your clutch is new, you may or may not have any slipping yet. adjustment is under the dash, look where the rod pushes the master cylinder and shorten the rod by adjusting the screw. if you adjust too much you might not be able to shift or it will be difficult because the clutch is not released from the flywheel. so, the goal is to adjust the screw to shorten the rod that pushes the master cylinder, do it little by little until you get the feel that clutch is grabbing okay, if it is the other way around, it means you are making it worse and turn the nut the opposite way. if you use the search function there is a visual picture from the manual. good luck!

 

do u think thats the cause of my power decrease?? I mean the clutch being like that is fine, i dont mind it being that way unless its slowing down my car. I just gotta figure out why my car doesnt hit full boost it hits shy of 1.0bar (14.7psi) and i know the evo is boostin 19psi so i def know something is wrong, i was taking the car up at WOT, and usually at around 3-3.5k rpm it pulls hard and just rises drastically, but the rpms climbed slow. I tightened the sh*t out of those IC hose clamps. maybe i tightened it too hard? could that be the prob? Also, the temp gauge still doesnt come on and i plugged the sensor in, and also the reverse light doesnt come on and i plugged the sensor ontop of the tranny, what else could it be? Main concern is: the boost issue. THx for the help!

 

sucks

 

oh my god dude. it runs so sell it, and get your friend to give you the diff. you lost