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SON OF A BISCUIT!!! Turbo from Forced Performance not as "bolt on" as they say!

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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 11:56 AM
  #16  
Zeus's Avatar
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by MalibuJack
Oh, and expect to wear or eat a little coolant and oil as you disassemble things..
Nah, that is what a few sets of foam ear plugs are for (the holes in your lines, not your heads guys ) ... Done quickly (with a squirt or two of brake cleaner), you can manage to not even spill enough in the car to "burn off".
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 01:31 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by EvoSam
I have been wrenching for a few years now and my arsenal does include a stud extractor. However, these studs do not want to be extracted, the one I argued with the longest eventually snapped.
Yeah, save yourself the headaches and just get new studs. From my experience on my DSMs, some studs just cannot be removed. Mitsu does not use any high temperature anti-sieze during assembly. The extreme temperature cycles these studs see causes the threads to gall and locks them in place.

You might have a chance using the double-nut technique, a wrench, and a 3 or 5-lb hammer. I would highly recommend against reusing studs/bolts in this area as those have a much higher chance of snapping on future removals. These bolts become brittle after some use.

One thing I *HIGHLY* recommend is to use high temperature anti-sieze on all the threads. Don't use the stuff they sell at your local auto parts store. The temperature ratings of those only go up to around 800F. The industrial grade Nickel anti-sieze works up to 2600F. I think the copper stuff is good up to 1800F. RRE sells the Nickel stuff.
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 02:55 PM
  #18  
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by marksae
Yeah, save yourself the headaches and just get new studs. From my experience on my DSMs, some studs just cannot be removed. Mitsu does not use any high temperature anti-sieze during assembly. The extreme temperature cycles these studs see causes the threads to gall and locks them in place.

You might have a chance using the double-nut technique, a wrench, and a 3 or 5-lb hammer. I would highly recommend against reusing studs/bolts in this area as those have a much higher chance of snapping on future removals. These bolts become brittle after some use.

One thing I *HIGHLY* recommend is to use high temperature anti-sieze on all the threads. Don't use the stuff they sell at your local auto parts store. The temperature ratings of those only go up to around 800F. The industrial grade Nickel anti-sieze works up to 2600F. I think the copper stuff is good up to 1800F. RRE sells the Nickel stuff.
Definitely stick with the high-temp nickel anti-sieze on exhaust components (I use it on everything though)... it is worth it's weight in gold five times over. I've used the same bottle since the mid 90's as a little goes a long way. As a matter of fact, the only down side to the stuff is that it mysteriously gets on everything it seems. The crap is worse than "aerodynamic seal" for those who have had the misfortue... so keep the rags and brake cleaner/MEK handy.
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #19  
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From: Redmond, WA
Well, I did manage to find some studs at the local car parts store, only two of them though so I used them on the O2 housing. The manifold side is all bolts now, but when I get my hands on some more studs I'll swap them out.

HOWEVER, the exhaust didn't go as well as planned either. The nifty V-clamps don't work so great when the down pipe mating surface is crooked and the cat won't line up with it!

I was that close to finishing tonight, now I either have to put the stock exhaust back on or wait for a new DP, we'll see what happens tomorrow.

Sam
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 06:01 PM
  #20  
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From: Western North Carolina
Originally Posted by Zeus
Definitely stick with the high-temp nickel anti-sieze on exhaust components (I use it on everything though)... it is worth it's weight in gold five times over. I've used the same bottle since the mid 90's as a little goes a long way. As a matter of fact, the only down side to the stuff is that it mysteriously gets on everything it seems. The crap is worse than "aerodynamic seal" for those who have had the misfortue... so keep the rags and brake cleaner/MEK handy.

Just remember, many people are allergic to nickel, and MEK (methylethylketone) is both flammable and poisonous, so use both with caution. I would be a bad deal to get the nickel all over yourself and break out in a big, honkin' rash, or if you burst into flames while dying of asphyxiation. = : P
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 06:06 PM
  #21  
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From: SF, CA
Originally Posted by rburris28
Just remember, many people are allergic to nickel, and MEK (methylethylketone) is both flammable and poisonous, so use both with caution. I would be a bad deal to get the nickel all over yourself and break out in a big, honkin' rash, or if you burst into flames while dying of asphyxiation. = : P
Damn, I didn't know that. That's good info.

I always wear gloves when working on cars anyway.
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Old Nov 21, 2004 | 06:58 PM
  #22  
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by rburris28
Just remember, many people are allergic to nickel, and MEK (methylethylketone) is both flammable and poisonous, so use both with caution. I would be a bad deal to get the nickel all over yourself and break out in a big, honkin' rash, or if you burst into flames while dying of asphyxiation. = : P
Damn, thank you... I've worked with the stuff for so long I'd forgotten the disclaimer. Somewhere in the attic I probably have MSDS sheets aged to a nice shade of yellow. Now you can fine them online easy enough.
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