Loving my ROBISPEC setup...
#31
at the time of the shoot out they hadn'd "adjusted" my suspension settings for 4 months (when I installed the DMS set-up against their wish) It went like "no one will pay $5,000.00 for a suspension" So I had the DMS importer and myself to rely on...went testing and tuning the week before the event on the same track for two days changed alignment Bump and rebound and ride height (went UP!) front sway bar etc...the funny thing is John was suposed to drive my car up to the thursday before the event...but though he had a better horse in the 6th placed car...so even though I asked he had no time. To their credit (and why I had their stickers) they checked my front toe at the track at my request and said it was fine. (so I guess I got something right in the testing.)...
#32
So you're way of aligning is better than regular 4 pt laser equipment?
So ... if my car was aligned:
FR camber -2.7
FL camber -2.7
FR toe 0.00
FL toe 0.00
FR camber -1.5
FL camber -1.5
FR toe 0.00
FL toe 0.00
You're saying that's off and really isn't that?
I'm confused.
So ... if my car was aligned:
FR camber -2.7
FL camber -2.7
FR toe 0.00
FL toe 0.00
FR camber -1.5
FL camber -1.5
FR toe 0.00
FL toe 0.00
You're saying that's off and really isn't that?
I'm confused.
#33
Evolved Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,252
Likes: 0
From: Del Monte Beach, Monterey, CA
thumbs up for robi spec.. I wish I had the money to have robi set up the car. If you want it done right.. you need to go to the man. Robi the suspension ****
People cant understand a simple fact that others have invested lots of time and research into a setup like this. Who is going to give you proper suspension advice if he cant? I think id rather have a winner's suspension setup then anyone else in that was in his rear view mirror.
People cant understand a simple fact that others have invested lots of time and research into a setup like this. Who is going to give you proper suspension advice if he cant? I think id rather have a winner's suspension setup then anyone else in that was in his rear view mirror.
Last edited by bdking57; Jun 14, 2005 at 09:57 PM.
#34
I only know as much about suspension as I read about. But it seems that if you know your stuff then you know your stuff. Trail and error and it looks like Robi Spec has this down to a science. At least that is the vibe I'm getting from is customers. Haven't seen any unhappy customer yet so more power to him.
#35
Originally Posted by razorlab
So you're way of aligning is better than regular 4 pt laser equipment?
So ... if my car was aligned:
FR camber -2.7
FL camber -2.7
FR toe 0.00
FL toe 0.00
FR camber -1.5
FL camber -1.5
FR toe 0.00
FL toe 0.00
You're saying that's off and really isn't that?
I'm confused.
So ... if my car was aligned:
FR camber -2.7
FL camber -2.7
FR toe 0.00
FL toe 0.00
FR camber -1.5
FL camber -1.5
FR toe 0.00
FL toe 0.00
You're saying that's off and really isn't that?
I'm confused.
I doubt this because unless you "improved" the slot for the camber bolts or have a 3" front drop I have yet to see an EVO with either this much negative front camber or equal camber on both sides(I'm assuming you had the shop max out the camber on each side). The max I have experianced "un-molested" is -2.3 degrees but the opposing side would only go to -1.9...so we slotted the strut and equalized the camber side to side. The average evo gets about -2 with a 1.5" drop usually less with the stock ride height
The biggest prob with the normal alignment method is the "developed center" or best fit line from the 4 wheel heads determined by the computer I construct a set of parallel planes down each side of the car prependicular to the rear axle center line. This "box' is then centered on the spindles of the front end and all measurements are taken from the laser "strings" Hey if the ART system is good enough for the Penske gang (and most of the other open wheel teams) it's good enough for me as I find I spend very little of my time defending my methods or the precision avalible to me (they use this system to recertify other systems).
When I take in a car like yours (post alignment shop) I usually find a deviation side to side of the laser plane of up to 1/2" at the front axles (remember this is less than a 60th of a degree measured at the rear wheel) they almost always thrust to one side or another and the front wheels thrust in the other direction to balance these loads and keep the car "driving straight".On the owners car who started this thread he had had multiple alignments to "cure" a tendency to drift to the left and when I measured it the rear was thrusting the car over 3/4" to the left as measured at the front spindles.
Again each to his own but I would change your settings to give me better turn in and easier rotation mid corner...and I'm assuming you have the biggest rear sway bar you can (25 mm +) find set at full stiff...rear strut braces trunk bar lower strut bracing etc.
#39
Originally Posted by robi
If these are right I would be the first to kneel in honor, both because everything is ballanced side to side and second because of the highest scoring evo on the total amount of neg camber "stock"
I doubt this because unless you "improved" the slot for the camber bolts or have a 3" front drop I have yet to see an EVO with either this much negative front camber or equal camber on both sides(I'm assuming you had the shop max out the camber on each side). The max I have experianced "un-molested" is -2.3 degrees but the opposing side would only go to -1.9...so we slotted the strut and equalized the camber side to side. The average evo gets about -2 with a 1.5" drop usually less with the stock ride height
I doubt this because unless you "improved" the slot for the camber bolts or have a 3" front drop I have yet to see an EVO with either this much negative front camber or equal camber on both sides(I'm assuming you had the shop max out the camber on each side). The max I have experianced "un-molested" is -2.3 degrees but the opposing side would only go to -1.9...so we slotted the strut and equalized the camber side to side. The average evo gets about -2 with a 1.5" drop usually less with the stock ride height
Originally Posted by robi
The biggest prob with the normal alignment method is the "developed center" or best fit line from the 4 wheel heads determined by the computer I construct a set of parallel planes down each side of the car prependicular to the rear axle center line. This "box' is then centered on the spindles of the front end and all measurements are taken from the laser "strings" Hey if the ART system is good enough for the Penske gang (and most of the other open wheel teams) it's good enough for me as I find I spend very little of my time defending my methods or the precision avalible to me (they use this system to recertify other systems).
When I take in a car like yours (post alignment shop) I usually find a deviation side to side of the laser plane of up to 1/2" at the front axles (remember this is less than a 60th of a degree measured at the rear wheel) they almost always thrust to one side or another and the front wheels thrust in the other direction to balance these loads and keep the car "driving straight".
When I take in a car like yours (post alignment shop) I usually find a deviation side to side of the laser plane of up to 1/2" at the front axles (remember this is less than a 60th of a degree measured at the rear wheel) they almost always thrust to one side or another and the front wheels thrust in the other direction to balance these loads and keep the car "driving straight".
Originally Posted by robi
Again each to his own but I would change your settings to give me better turn in and easier rotation mid corner...and I'm assuming you have the biggest rear sway bar you can (25 mm +) find set at full stiff...rear strut braces trunk bar lower strut bracing etc.
#43
Originally Posted by robi
at the time of the shoot out they hadn'd "adjusted" my suspension settings for 4 months (when I installed the DMS set-up against their wish) It went like "no one will pay $5,000.00 for a suspension" So I had the DMS importer and myself to rely on...went testing and tuning the week before the event on the same track for two days changed alignment Bump and rebound and ride height (went UP!) front sway bar etc...the funny thing is John was suposed to drive my car up to the thursday before the event...but though he had a better horse in the 6th placed car...so even though I asked he had no time. To their credit (and why I had their stickers) they checked my front toe at the track at my request and said it was fine. (so I guess I got something right in the testing.)...