High flow cat. Which ones the best??
federal law actually says you can not remove or replace your factory catalytic converter. It should be replaced under warranty if it fails within the waranty period. After that you might be able to replace it with something else. You have to have a catalytic converter unless you are on a race track or off road.
Originally Posted by MrMejia
you might wanna read up on the laws about changing out your catalictic converter before you slap a new one on there.....unless you plan on using that car for racing only. just some food for thought.
Originally Posted by discopimps
federal law actually says you can not remove or replace your factory catalytic converter. It should be replaced under warranty if it fails within the waranty period. After that you might be able to replace it with something else. You have to have a catalytic converter unless you are on a race track or off road.
Hi,
First, I'm shocked that no one has said that HFCs suck and get a test pipe, hehe. That always seems to be the first answer.
Anyway, I don' t have a link handy, but I believe there is a federal law regarding not changing the catalyst on recent model cars UNLESS 1) the stock cat was damaged or 2) the car has over 45000 miles. Don't have concrete proof, but I don't think that it's accurate to say that you MUST replace with a stock cat or that only trucks can change to aftermarket cats. If someone can verify this one way or the other please do. The prices for stock cats are outrageous. A coworker needed a cat for his 02 Impala, and the shop quoted him $700. $700!!!! FWIW, I did get an inspection sticker here in MA, but they didn't even smog me. They just commented that the volume of my exhaust was "borderline", lol.
If you get caught with a test pipe, whether that's likely where you live or not, you can get a hefty fine. I believe it's > $1000? Again, sorry for the lack of details. So, I decided to stick with a HFC, even though there is a compromise on ultimate power gain. I also wanted a HFC to reduce noise, but so far my exhaust is still too loud (a that's a story for other threads).
I have a RT HF Cat, metal catalyst, and it's a nice piece and makes good power. I made 331 WHP and 338 WTQ uncorrected on Pruven's dynojet with K&N panel filter. Like the other poster, I did get the inefficient cat code, but a single anti fouler mechanical fix solved the problem. I think if you don't get the code, you may not be flowing much better than stock, so the $/HP may not be worthwhile. The fact that a cat-delete also requires some sort of anti-cel measure doesn't make the HFC a bad choice IMHO, it just depends on your criteria...
Good luck,
FB
First, I'm shocked that no one has said that HFCs suck and get a test pipe, hehe. That always seems to be the first answer.
Anyway, I don' t have a link handy, but I believe there is a federal law regarding not changing the catalyst on recent model cars UNLESS 1) the stock cat was damaged or 2) the car has over 45000 miles. Don't have concrete proof, but I don't think that it's accurate to say that you MUST replace with a stock cat or that only trucks can change to aftermarket cats. If someone can verify this one way or the other please do. The prices for stock cats are outrageous. A coworker needed a cat for his 02 Impala, and the shop quoted him $700. $700!!!! FWIW, I did get an inspection sticker here in MA, but they didn't even smog me. They just commented that the volume of my exhaust was "borderline", lol.
If you get caught with a test pipe, whether that's likely where you live or not, you can get a hefty fine. I believe it's > $1000? Again, sorry for the lack of details. So, I decided to stick with a HFC, even though there is a compromise on ultimate power gain. I also wanted a HFC to reduce noise, but so far my exhaust is still too loud (a that's a story for other threads).
I have a RT HF Cat, metal catalyst, and it's a nice piece and makes good power. I made 331 WHP and 338 WTQ uncorrected on Pruven's dynojet with K&N panel filter. Like the other poster, I did get the inefficient cat code, but a single anti fouler mechanical fix solved the problem. I think if you don't get the code, you may not be flowing much better than stock, so the $/HP may not be worthwhile. The fact that a cat-delete also requires some sort of anti-cel measure doesn't make the HFC a bad choice IMHO, it just depends on your criteria...
Good luck,
FB
Originally Posted by fq340
any check engine light??? thanks
Originally Posted by berkel
First, I'm shocked that no one has said that HFCs suck and get a test pipe, hehe. That always seems to be the first answer.
It would be louder then the stock one because it allows more air to go through. I did not notice that my exhaust sounded any different after I did the downpipe and cat, maybe just a touch louder is all.
UR all the way.
2 years running, 12's @ 110 with 93 oct.
No P0420 codes with Anti-fouler mod.
Noise level?
Can still hold a conversation at 80mph without screaming.
2 years running, 12's @ 110 with 93 oct.
No P0420 codes with Anti-fouler mod.
Noise level?
Can still hold a conversation at 80mph without screaming.
Last edited by Nad1370; Jul 26, 2005 at 04:18 PM.
I like my 3' UR hfc, although it can't make same hp like test pipe but it doesn't smell, also emission legal ( i passed nys inspection) and have a great price, great fit and much quite than test pipe.
