APS dual vent bov- what the deal?
APS dual vent bov- what the deal?
Okay I have searched and read a lot, but all i seem to get is people owning the aps and claiming it to be the best w/o any info backing it up. I've been to their site and read it but i want first hand experience. Some say aps is the best (which i dont know why because they dont back it up). Then some say aps wont be good if you mod your car? I just want to know the FACTS because I was considering getting this bov and keeping for a while and plan on adding mods also.
Thanks
Thanks
Originally Posted by Iceman2011
if i am going to get one i will probably get APS as no stalling issues as it some how directs some air in the atmosphere and some back inside.
Also, this is a direct bolt on replacement for the stock unit.
I had a hard time understanding the info on their web page as well. But keep doing your searches. Alot of people on here have them, including vendors who use them and have written reviews.
BTW I do not own one, but its the product I want.....when the pocketbook allows.....
Its a good product, had it on for about two years now, do not VTA. I have a custom intake setup that I need to get rewelded for recirculate and driving the car is an absolute nightmare.
Originally Posted by QAT-R
Its a good product, had it on for about two years now, do not VTA.
Now i'm all f...ed up...just when I thought I learned something.
I have had it on the car for over 30,000 miles. Why do I like it? It holds the boost and doesnt leak, installs easy and most cases does not need adjustment (it is adjustable though), the car does not stall or idle bad in any way EVER, and it sounds great. Evo's have been in Australia (where APS is) longer than the U.S. and there are many heavily modded Evo's with 600+hp using the APS. I do agree though that thier web site is not very helpful.
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Originally Posted by althemean
It doesnt VTA?? I definately remember some people who bought it telling me I was an idiot and to go reread APS web page beacuse it does VTA partially.
Now i'm all f...ed up...just when I thought I learned something.
Now i'm all f...ed up...just when I thought I learned something.
That is a feature that I like about it since I don't care to hear the bov sound everytime I let off the gas.
OK... People have it and say it's good, but don't back it up with facts?? I'm confused as to what "facts" you are looking for. I have one and have had zero issues with it. If I swap bov's from the aps to the stocker I lose 1-2.5 psi. The stocker leaks, the aps holds great and sounds awesome. The slow speed drivability is a little worse than stock, but it is barely noticable. The only reason I say this is because I have changed back and forth within 10 minutes and driven the car up my steep bumpy driveway.
The aps bov is a good unit. <- Fact
The aps bov is a good unit. <- Fact
Originally Posted by LpBevoEvo
OK... People have it and say it's good, but don't back it up with facts?? I'm confused as to what "facts" you are looking for. I have one and have had zero issues with it. If I swap bov's from the aps to the stocker I lose 1-2.5 psi. The stocker leaks, the aps holds great and sounds awesome. The slow speed drivability is a little worse than stock, but it is barely noticable. The only reason I say this is because I have changed back and forth within 10 minutes and driven the car up my steep bumpy driveway.
The aps bov is a good unit. <- Fact
The aps bov is a good unit. <- Fact
Originally Posted by althemean
It doesnt VTA?? I definately remember some people who bought it telling me I was an idiot and to go reread APS web page beacuse it does VTA partially.
Now i'm all f...ed up...just when I thought I learned something.
Now i'm all f...ed up...just when I thought I learned something.
Originally Posted by dryad001
If you have low speed issues try tightening the screw on the back of it, never had a sputter or drop in idle at all. Holds boost and doesn't flutter at all. Screw the HKS, TXS, Greddy bov's.
Thanks,
Ben
Okay thanks. I also read the APS is a good piece but only if you keep your car mostly stock. Also Forge talks about it a little but they have no real experience. Let me find what they say about it.
Originally Posted by Mike@Forge
Well, I have very little personal experience with the APS valve, but with the little I have, I think ours allows for more flow, and a wider range of adjustability and compatibility with more applications.
The APS valve is a "hybrid" or "50/50" valve design that, while very nice, we have decided not to offer.
While they can be made to work in some instances dependant upon the application, they provide little to no actual real world benefit over a solely recirculating valve or solely atmospheric valve.
It basically boils down to the point that: Either your car's engine management system, whether factory or aftermarket, will accept the use of a solely atmospheric valve or it won't. If it doesn't, use a solely recirculating type.
While it's nice to have that blow-off valve (whooshing) sound, we feel it's more important to have a valve that will perform flawlessly regadless of the amount of noice it makes. We do not design our valves to make a particular sound nor to accomodate those people looking to trick their engine management system, whether factory or aftermarket, into thinking the car is operating properly. We design them to flow the most amount of air possible, reliably.
Having a valve that allows for either configuration, recirculating for most applications and atmospheric for those applications that will accpet it, it's a win/win.
This valve was originally intended to be fully modular in it's design to offer compatibility with numerous applications and we have successfully achieved that goal.
While some may not agree with those above statements, they are my personal opinions, and based on significant research and testing of numerous valves over the last few months.
Part of the reason why we can truthfully say that "We can offer the widest and most complete range of vehicle-specific and universal blow-off and diverter valves in the world."
The APS valve is a "hybrid" or "50/50" valve design that, while very nice, we have decided not to offer.
While they can be made to work in some instances dependant upon the application, they provide little to no actual real world benefit over a solely recirculating valve or solely atmospheric valve.
It basically boils down to the point that: Either your car's engine management system, whether factory or aftermarket, will accept the use of a solely atmospheric valve or it won't. If it doesn't, use a solely recirculating type.
While it's nice to have that blow-off valve (whooshing) sound, we feel it's more important to have a valve that will perform flawlessly regadless of the amount of noice it makes. We do not design our valves to make a particular sound nor to accomodate those people looking to trick their engine management system, whether factory or aftermarket, into thinking the car is operating properly. We design them to flow the most amount of air possible, reliably.
Having a valve that allows for either configuration, recirculating for most applications and atmospheric for those applications that will accpet it, it's a win/win.
This valve was originally intended to be fully modular in it's design to offer compatibility with numerous applications and we have successfully achieved that goal.
While some may not agree with those above statements, they are my personal opinions, and based on significant research and testing of numerous valves over the last few months.
Part of the reason why we can truthfully say that "We can offer the widest and most complete range of vehicle-specific and universal blow-off and diverter valves in the world."
Originally Posted by QAT-R
My point is this is designed to work with your stock intake and that is why it doesn't F up your idle and it does recirculate, it VTA when the pressure becomes too much. You need to plug it in to the stock location if you are use MAF sensor
