So lightening the rotational and unsprung is critical, also saved weight will allow any amount of downforce and later G's to be much more effective.

Imagine Evo vs. Evo racing a 20 mile road course with 80 or so corners. This could be any where, mountain switchbacks, city street, or sweeping country side roads. Equal power mods, but he has a sub box and a couple amps, and you have lighter rims by 10 lb. so overall about a 300lb advantage to you. 80 corners over 20 miles averages to about 1/4 mile per turn....so lets be generous and say that you only gain .2 seconds on each turn due to your later braking, faster turn in, better lateral holding, and increased acceleration and top end every time you come off an apex. You would gain 16 seconds at the finish line.

If you averaged a conservative 60MPH, your 300lb advantage would equal about 1407ft. or roughly 94 car lengths over your competition.

The bottom line is that you carry more speed everywhere acceleration and deceleration take place....there is no substitute for less weight on the road!

dru

 

Well, they made one critical error. Used the wrong engine.
Now this would be the right choice http://www.prototyperacing.com/k20kit.htm

 

I love that car, but if it were me I would do the Frank block. Bottom end of a CRV (2.4 liters) and then swap on a Type R head

 

So on to the next aspect of this question.

What are the easiest area's for an Evo to loose weight? Not including wheels/tires. And lets be somewhat realistic, like no "take the door panels out" or "remove the back seat". Also I would not throw the exhaust into this equasion because most people who want to put their Evo on a diet have already changed exhaust. This is not meant to be an exercise in gutting an Evo to make a race car, but a how-to based on real world things that you could remove to make a streetable Evo lighter. I will list a few easy thoughts, but input is welcome and encouraged..

1. Remove spare.
2. Remove front and rear crash bars under the bumpers.
3. Mini Battery
4. Removing trunk carpet/material (I have heard 20lbs reduction)
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
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15.


Let the idea's flow.

 

undertray, and my free 2fast to 2furious dvd i received when i bought my evo that is still in my car in it's original package. pm for pricing.

 

1. Remove spare.
2. Remove front and rear crash bars under the bumpers.
3. Mini Battery
4. Removing trunk carpet/material (I have heard 20lbs reduction)
5.Remove sound deadening material
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.

 

the back seat goes in and out so easy you shouldn't discount removing it when you need the weight.
that said, the back seat stiffles a lot of noise and does not weigth a whole lot, want to make your car sound like a truck, pull the back seat out.
the carpet in the trunk of my car is nearly weightless, might be five lb max.

the bumper bar, small battery, spare tire, are the only clear gainers for most people.

Derek, what sound deadening material are you referring to.

 

Fill the tires with helium

 

Hydrogen, MUCH MUCH lighter

 

My bad, with the exception of the rotor weights I think everything else is pretty close I can tell you first hand the 20lbs you save just by going to twin carbon clutch (I know its expensive, but it's only a 20lb saving) you can feel the car accelerate much harder.

 

WIEGHT reduction is fine for drag racing. Acceleration=Force/Mass

For Road Racing Weight Reduction can potentially hinder the balance of the car?

A person should not blindly remove weight. Proper weight reduction will take hours of R & D, Trial and error, and proper corner weighting ECT. Driver or normal load should be in place ECT. Many Drivers say that their best lap times have been with a passenger in the car. I would not mess with a balanced car from the factory. Roll-centers Kingpin angles are all carefully engineered around the weight of the car.

 

1. Remove spare.
2. Remove front and rear crash bars under the bumpers.
3. Mini Battery
4. Removing trunk carpet/material (I have heard 20lbs reduction)
5. Remove sound deadening material
6. Scrape off all the gooey black undercoating. (super street crx reduced 10lb )
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.

Oh, and I just added a WORKS Lightened Flywheel to my lancer, it makes quite a big difference, for me at least, in low end acceleration/power. Gives the car a little bit lighter feel. (take note, i'm non-evo though.)

 

Weight reduction is important in all facets of racing. I would say it is actually more important in road racing as it will assist with acceleration, braking and cornering -- not to mention transitions.

As with anything it needs to be done correctly. You don’t want to take all of your weight from the rear of a front engine car as you will have traction and handling problems. Likewise you don’t want to remove too much weight from the front of something like an older Porsche 911 as the car just will not handle. Once you have removed as much weight as possible you can then put some back in - in places of your choosing to improve dynamics.

When you make drastic changes in weight you do need to think about suspension setup and corner weights -- but when done correctly it is a significant improvement. Keep in mind that our cars our street cars and engineered for the street. We are taking them out of element when taking them to the track and need to make changes accordingly.

Show me a car which is faster with a passenger and I will show you a car that is not setup correctly.

 

I think he means corner balancing.....Which I did and my handling is awesome.

 

1. Remove spare.
2. Remove front and rear crash bars under the bumpers.
3. Mini Battery
4. Removing trunk carpet/material (I have heard 20lbs reduction)
5. Remove sound deadening material
6. Scrape off all the gooey black undercoating. (super street crx reduced 10lb )
7. Remove dead hooker from the trunk
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.