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Do it yourself oil change question.

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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 12:22 PM
  #16  
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The problem with full synthetics in new cars is that they are so slippery, the engine doesn't get a chance to break in. The rings don't seat, and you drive around with a perpetually un-broken-in engine. The recommendations I've seen for new cars is to drive 5000 miles with non-synthetic, then switch over to synthetics.

I'm not sure what Mitsubishi does to deal with this, unless

a) the oil in the cars from the factory is not synthetic or has something special in it; or
b) the engines are broken in before being put in the cars (ala Porsche).

Since there's still a break-in period, I'd assume a). So, you're stuck with a conundrum: do I change the oil early (say, 600 and 1200 miles) to get the nasty bits out, or do I leave the break-in oil in the car as long as possible to ensure complete break-in of the engine?

Too bad you can't just go buy "break-in" synthetic oil.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 12:34 PM
  #17  
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...935#post198935

This link is what Mitsubishi recommends.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 12:38 PM
  #18  
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ANyone know if our crankcase is aluminum or steel? If it is aluminum, what should we torque the crankcase bolt at?
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 12:45 PM
  #19  
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IF it is break in oil i would have to wait till 3k. I wish offered break in oil change at 1k so we could break it in to maximize horsepower.

The dealer doesn't even have mitsubishi filter available. I feel moble 1 or any other synthetic filter would work and by not using mitsubishi filter to void warrentee is ridicuouls. I feel that they are forcing us to use their brand.

Maybe mitsubishi should give us no powertrain warrentee deletion option like they do in the UK?
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 01:51 PM
  #20  
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Do not use FRAM!!! They are inferior to OEM or filters like Amsoil or K&N. I would stick to OEM over anything else.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:15 PM
  #21  
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SouthernCrane

The crankcase is forged steel, have not heard of any aluminum cranks lately.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:16 PM
  #22  
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gtr

The Filter is the same on the EVO as it is for the Outlander, that is part number MD356000.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally posted by west loop mitsu
gtr

The Filter is the same on the EVO as it is for the Outlander, that is part number MD356000.
Really, I thought they would of put a synetic filter if using a moble 1 or boash would void warrentee.

Thanks,
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:29 PM
  #24  
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Originally posted by jrallen
The problem with full synthetics in new cars is that they are so slippery, the engine doesn't get a chance to break in. The rings don't seat, and you drive around with a perpetually un-broken-in engine.
I find this very annoying and it is on all car boards that I read. Full synthetics aren't a problem. If they were, engineers from BMW, Porsche and GM (corvette) wouldn't be specifying full synth from the factory. This is their _day_ job guys, they do this every day, year in and year out and I would trust what they say.

For reference, my M3 came with 10w60 from the factory, full synthetic and that's all it'll ever see. I have had it for nearly a year now, and have yet to burn a drop of oil or have excessive smoking, etc. at startup. I've broken it in properly - never rev it hard when cold, gradually build up revs and most importantly, use lots of engine braking. Car runs like a well oiled clock.

Lets stop perpetuating the synth oil is bad myth. Thanks

/v
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:34 PM
  #25  
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http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
check out what this dude reccomends

The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:39 PM
  #26  
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Thank you very much West Loop Mitsu. Now I won't have to worry too much about stripping it when i change the oil
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:40 PM
  #27  
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Originally posted by Sweft
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
check out what this dude reccomends



I do not care what Mr. Mototuneusa says about no synthetics during the first break in. I'm going by people who have institutionalized racing (bmw, porsche) and if their motorport engineers put synthetic in from the factory, I am just NOT going to mess with that. Just not going to happen, regardless of what I see out there on the internet.

/v
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:43 PM
  #28  
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=16024

Here is a few pictures of the location and filter.
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 02:57 PM
  #29  
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And 3K for first oil change. That is ludicrous. You should change at 1000 miles, then 2000 after that, and then go to 3-5K intervals. I change the rex, with a Fram X2 filter, or Mobile One filter and Mobil one lubricants every 5K miles.

Some say not to use Synthetic, some say it is ok because Porsche and Chevy use them. Personally, I ran dino oil up to 5K miles, then switched to M. One.

Car runs like a champ, and burns no oil after 40K miles.

Andy
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Old Mar 10, 2003 | 03:00 PM
  #30  
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Inproper break in by early oil changes can lead to the risk of oil leaks. This is due to the gaskets and seals not setting in properly. The 3K is what Mitsubishi recommends. You of course are free to express what ever you wish and also to do what works for yourself.
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