intake pipe w/o tune
Originally Posted by Thegame
I have to agree with Warrtalon on this one. My MR DV never flutters... Well maybe a tiny little bit at partial throttle, but no more than the stocker.
Originally Posted by Creamo3
If you actually search the JDM BOV you will see that this is not an isolated instance as it has caused idle problems when people come to a stop ( idle dips) and flutters under boost. Maybe at your level of mods you aren't maxing out the valve, but there are better valves out there. 

Originally Posted by Creamo3
Exactly, you are not supposed to be fluttering at all.
Originally Posted by dsm95hybrid
Speaking of... 2005+ model year will not have this problem as they basically have an HKS EIDS equivelent built into the ECU circuitry.
Originally Posted by ZK
Do we? Anyone can confirm this? So the 05s can vent the BOV to atmosphere and not have to worry about idling?
i ran the ssqv vta..the sound was cool and all...but not worth the performance lost....i changed it to mr dv!!!
edit: no idle problems!!!
I thought the open air filter that aftermarket intakes have is what caused the MAF readings to go haywire thus creating a lean situation in case of the EVO. Is it the intake pipe and not the filter or both? For instance, if I kept my Helix Intake pipe but put back on my stock cold air intake would it function OK?
On another note, my JDM MR BOV does not flutter. Only at very very low RPMs in 5th gear and such but this started when I installed my cams I believe. Either way, it doesnt buck the car at all and it holds the boost I ask it to. $100! cant beat it!
On another note, my JDM MR BOV does not flutter. Only at very very low RPMs in 5th gear and such but this started when I installed my cams I believe. Either way, it doesnt buck the car at all and it holds the boost I ask it to. $100! cant beat it!
i have a HKS inlet pipe and a drop-in HKS filter. i have NO problems w/the set-up!!! i am NOT tuned either. i was running an open-ended filter and had all kinds of problems(boost spikes, too rich,and fuel cut-off!) i highly RECOMMEND the HKS inlet pipe w/ur stock box and a drop-in filter!!!
Originally Posted by Turbolover
i have a HKS inlet pipe and a drop-in HKS filter. i have NO problems w/the set-up!!! i am NOT tuned either. i was running an open-ended filter and had all kinds of problems(boost spikes, too rich,and fuel cut-off!) i highly RECOMMEND the HKS inlet pipe w/ur stock box and a drop-in filter!!!

Originally Posted by MalibuJack
(Specifically referring to the BR Cone filter only) I did not have any issues with stalling at all until I installed a MAF pipe, the filter alone really doesn't do any harm, well, it causes the car to run marginally leaner, which is worth a few horsepower, but it never appeared to make my car dangerously lean.
There's a few good explanations of why the MAF pipe causes stalling, but essentially when the pipe had bends that made the inlet and outlet parallel, the airflow from the recirculation valve, or any small amount of surge, would directly disrupt the MAF readings and could cause stalling. As David said, by using only one angle, the airflow would have to go around a turn to disrupt airflow which meant it was no longer at just the right angle to confuse the sensor. HKS addresses this by tapering the size of the pipe up from the turbo to the Maf, which in theory should slightly decelerate the airflow. But Dave's solution seems to work best in most cases.
I wanted to also add that many other intake "Kits" do replace the intake and MAF pipe, in those cases you will need a retune since they alter the MAF readings in different ways. Overall they lower the MAF reading which can cause the car to run marginally, to severely lean, thats why its very important to get the car tuned when you make modifications.
THere are some filters that will alone alter the MAF readings, ARC is a good example, there are others that I can't think of offhand, but it has alot to do with how the airflow is directed INTO the MAF at that point. Most cone-only filters won't really give you too much grief.
There's a few good explanations of why the MAF pipe causes stalling, but essentially when the pipe had bends that made the inlet and outlet parallel, the airflow from the recirculation valve, or any small amount of surge, would directly disrupt the MAF readings and could cause stalling. As David said, by using only one angle, the airflow would have to go around a turn to disrupt airflow which meant it was no longer at just the right angle to confuse the sensor. HKS addresses this by tapering the size of the pipe up from the turbo to the Maf, which in theory should slightly decelerate the airflow. But Dave's solution seems to work best in most cases.
I wanted to also add that many other intake "Kits" do replace the intake and MAF pipe, in those cases you will need a retune since they alter the MAF readings in different ways. Overall they lower the MAF reading which can cause the car to run marginally, to severely lean, thats why its very important to get the car tuned when you make modifications.
THere are some filters that will alone alter the MAF readings, ARC is a good example, there are others that I can't think of offhand, but it has alot to do with how the airflow is directed INTO the MAF at that point. Most cone-only filters won't really give you too much grief.
Originally Posted by Soon2BEVO
I thought the open air filter that aftermarket intakes have is what caused the MAF readings to go haywire thus creating a lean situation in case of the EVO. Is it the intake pipe and not the filter or both? For instance, if I kept my Helix Intake pipe but put back on my stock cold air intake would it function OK?
On another note, my JDM MR BOV does not flutter. Only at very very low RPMs in 5th gear and such but this started when I installed my cams I believe. Either way, it doesnt buck the car at all and it holds the boost I ask it to. $100! cant beat it!
On another note, my JDM MR BOV does not flutter. Only at very very low RPMs in 5th gear and such but this started when I installed my cams I believe. Either way, it doesnt buck the car at all and it holds the boost I ask it to. $100! cant beat it!
Just FYI, the
JDM MR Bov starts to crack open and leak at ~21 psi.
Stock BOV starts to crack open and leak at ~19 psi.
I tested this on an aparatus I made at home.
Any time you leak pressurized air, you are heating up the air MORE THAN what is needed to make that boost pressure without the leak. So a leak is a BAD thing, no matter how much/ or how little.
Brian
JDM MR Bov starts to crack open and leak at ~21 psi.
Stock BOV starts to crack open and leak at ~19 psi.
I tested this on an aparatus I made at home.
Any time you leak pressurized air, you are heating up the air MORE THAN what is needed to make that boost pressure without the leak. So a leak is a BAD thing, no matter how much/ or how little.
Brian
Originally Posted by TURBODAWG
Just FYI, the
JDM MR Bov starts to crack open and leak at ~21 psi.
Stock BOV starts to crack open and leak at ~19 psi.
I tested this on an aparatus I made at home.
Any time you leak pressurized air, you are heating up the air MORE THAN what is needed to make that boost pressure without the leak. So a leak is a BAD thing, no matter how much/ or how little.
Brian
JDM MR Bov starts to crack open and leak at ~21 psi.
Stock BOV starts to crack open and leak at ~19 psi.
I tested this on an aparatus I made at home.
Any time you leak pressurized air, you are heating up the air MORE THAN what is needed to make that boost pressure without the leak. So a leak is a BAD thing, no matter how much/ or how little.
Brian
Originally Posted by Soon2BEVO
I tested my JDM MR BOV and it started to leak at 24psi. It held closed compeltely at 23psi. I run 22.5


