At 1000 miles I did my first oil change then found out that there is oil leak at the center diff. It leaks from the valve that looks like the bleed valve for the brakes. Does anyboy know what is that valve for? Here is the pic.

 

Dude I don't see a pic?

 

Here is the pic. Sorry it didn't show the first time

 

It's all good.

Wish I knew what the problem was, but I'd take it to a trusted dealership to get it checked out assuming you haven't avoided the warranty yet (it's soooo tempting!!!)

Looks like a drain plug though.

 

Thanks for the quick reply. It is 100% stock as of right now. Here is the better pic. The valve was kind of loss. I tighted it a little more and we'll see if it fix the problem. I don't want to take it in yet. I am too busy righ now. Does anyone know what the valve is for? The oil leak to the DP and it burned.

 

i believe it is the bleeder for the a.c.d...

 

How do you bleed that thing? There might be air in there by now, cause of the leak.

 

go to dealer time

 

Are you sure? There is no way that it can be done at home. So it mean you can not change your own clutch?

 

I believe the ACD needs the MUT tool to activate it in order to bleed properly. If you get air in the ACD line you will have problems with the rear wheels dragging. Search for posts by Omniphil and you will see what I mean.

 

where are you located. If you're in TX, I can tell ya the name of a great mitsu dealer.

If not, take it to the dealer you bought it from and show them that it's leaking oil. Show them where you think it's coming from, but do not tell them you tightened anything. They can say you over torqued the ACD and thus blew your warrenty on it or something far-fetched like that. Don't give them any foothold.

 

+1 NOW !



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Correct that is the bleeder for the hydraulic fluid that applies pressure to the Active Center Differential clutch pack and you don't want to open that up or mess with that system unless you have the MUT and know how to bleed the air out of the system.


The hydraulic fluid for the ACD shouldn't need to be changed anymore than one would change their power steering fluid so avoid messing with it unless you had to remove the transfer case.

If you get air in the system for some unspeakable reason or had to remove the transfer case, the will ACD ECU will sense a problem and all 3 lights (tarmac, gravel ,snow) will light up on the tach. The ACD will turn itself off and the car will drive like it has an open center diff, not locked or FWD or RWD only.

Now when it comes to bleeding the system, you don't want to be anywhere near that bleeder during the purging procedure. It blasts the hydraulic fluid out of there around 150-200psi of pressure and it does it right NOW creating a huge mess too because your rubber hose will get blown off the bleeder immediately unless you secure it with a zip-tie. Make sure to check the reservoir between purges because it'll empty the tank in about 3 seconds and you'll have to start all over again.



Jon@teamrip.com
http://www.teamrip.com/Evolution.html

 

I just check the bleed valve this morning, about 200 miles of driving after i tight the valve, there is no more oil leak. The leak was not that much, it got the area around it wet including the down pipe. Should I take it in and have the dealer check it out? I don't want to deal with the dealer service. It drives just like normal and no unusual light comes on. What do you guys think?

 

BTW I am in orange county, California