wow a lot of mixed information op, doesnt know how to take it. If your looking for a goal of 350-400 whp. First question is do you have an e85 station close by? If so build around using that gas, ive seen a few buddies run a 9 turbo, boltons on e85, one hit 410 hp on a mustang dyno, using my old 3" intercooler.

so with that, your bare minimum for making 350-400 hp:
intercooler and minimum licp, intercooler to lower the heated air better then stock turbo thus making more power
if you go e85 you have to ask yourself if you plan to stay on stock turbo, if so then 1000-1200cc injectors, one walbro fuel pump
Catback, downpipe, preferably test pipe
get yourself a maf adapter plate and cone filter, search on here how to modify the stock airbox, so that the air filter dont get underhood temp heated air, but closer to ambient temp air.
If you can swing it cams, i ran hks 272 cams for a few years and it did make better power across the board then stock, but i swapped for s2 cams, and midrange and top end pulls a lot harder now.
Question is how much do you have to spend.
All those mods, plus 2 tunes one for 91 octane, and a map switch for e85. On pump youll be 300-350 whp if your on a 03 turbo. 350-400 whp if your on e85 with similar tq.
All that you should be under 2000-2500 ish.

 

* correction stock intercooler not stock turbo, haha

 

easy way is to do a cheap 35r upgrade or 30r and u would be able to leave pretty much everything stock but injectors and make that power easy, but u would need an exhaust and cold air and supporting mods. you could run stock cams and the car would run and drive like stock but kick like crazy after 4k and leave it on pump its easy and safe

 

A lot of you are responding to the OP, it has been like 5 years since he posted and I doubt he still needs this info, I am the one now asking questions! haha

I have a mishimoto intercooler that is the same size as stock except that it is 3inchs thick

I have full Injen piping
This piping was modded to decrease spool after my battery was relocated to the trunk, and cone filter

I have a megan turbo back exhaust (except my O2 housing is DNP) and what I have been told is a EDM tubular header (it has anti lag ports)

AEM tru Boost controller

Arp head studs

My ground rules are these
1.) 93 octane only. No Meth, No E, and no 91
2.) The biggest turbo I am willing to go with is an 18g but I want to stay within the stock turbo spectrum (current or evo 9)
3.) any cam I get can NOT have drivability issues. I don't want the dark to sound wonky or be more difficult to drive than any stock evo
This is why I was looking at the HKS 272 and Kelford 264 they do not lose power in the low end and they don't change low rpm characteristics.
My goal is to put together a car that has the power output of a euro FQ400, with a more street friendly power band, that no one could second guess that it didn't come from the factory in that profile.

I spent a month listening to sound clips of mufflers until I bought the one I have because I wanted a very innocuous and quiet note. If these rules of the build ultimately mean I fall short then I can deal with that.

 

Hey I just read this post and realized its from 2005 by the time I got to post 40, I'm like wtf are these guys talking about???
Didn't all these subjects get pointed out a million times before?

 

Hey I want a 280whp evo daily driver!!! how can I get there?!!!?!

 

I would say 400whp is very reasonable and a daily and not crazy at all. It depends on the build though.

 

in to find a good cam thats good but not hard to drive with.

 

FP4R, GSC S2, Kelford 272 these are all good cams. Anyone that says there is a "drive ability" issue must be crazy

1500rpm? The only time my car is under 2500 is when sitting still.

 

lol

 

Didn't go thru the entire thread but check out the sticky

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-dummies.html

 

Already looked there and it does not provide the info I need. Most of what I have follows that logic though if you look at the mod list I already have (posted above).

But as you noticed my question was not generic and I didn't just ask for default mods lists.

I already have the standard bolt ons. and now i am looking at a cam/turbo combination or Just cams if I can do that. But I am very specific about what I need in a cam. The Kelford 264/260 is what I was leaning towards but I would like some feedback from someone with the 264 (not the 272)

Also unless I am at autoX or some other sanctioned activity I baby this car. I get 28mpg consistently. So sufficed to say low rpm drivability is a must, in city I hit at highest 3k rpms.

I don't understand why I am being hassled about my question. I am trying to do this properly, hence the asking from those who are more experienced.

That last part makes me question whether you would encounter the same drivability issues I would since our driving styles are obviously quite different.

Indeed, I had a high 400s Talon BUT the low end wasn't there. It wasn't at all enjoyable to drive, and it would have been eaten alive at autox. I want low and mid range power for these reasons. We have an impressively powered evo that runs our Autox but he doesn't do very well at all because his power band doesn't get utilized.

 

I installed a set of GSC S1s on my Evo ix. You can see my mods in my post, but the cams idle just like stock and perform very well. I gained around 40 hp from the cams alone. This was on a street tune with a vitual dyno. The cams drivability is excellent and made a very noticeable increase in performance especially in the midrange and upper RPM. Low range was not affected. This would be a very good cam for your goals.

 

I just don't see how your car would even want to move at such low speed in each gear. For me at 1500rpm 1st gear would be 8mph, 2nd 12mph, 3rd 17mph, 4th 22mph, 5th 28mph and 6th 35mph

 

I have an viii, but I agree, I can't imagine 1500 rpm's. I tried 2500 rpm shift points today cruising around and that was way too low. How do you even spool the turbo? I think 400 hp/tq is great for a dd, but if you're keeping all that power only for autox then I think it's a shame IMHO. I doubt you'd see any improvements over factory at 1500 or 2500 rpms.