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How much Power can i expect from a mail in flash?

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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 03:06 PM
  #16  
Warrtalon's Avatar
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From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by SterlingEvo
I think the poster means 12's, not 12.0's...
I've been very specific about the difference in 12s and 12.0s twice now, so hopefully she understands the difference by now...
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 03:14 PM
  #17  
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From: nc
Originally Posted by thaigurlygirl
Ok guys i have a 2005 gsr, anyway i want to go with a mail-in flash and wanted to know some personal experiences you have had good and bad . I was thinking turbo-trix but am open to your thoughts. MY car has


Hbc manual boost controller set @ 22 psi
Apex-i power intake
rsr turbo back exhaust cat deleted

Should i mod my car more before i get the flash ?? My goals are low 12.0s in the 1/4
btw, i have pretty close to the same mods as you but i have gsc 272 cams, walbro 255 fp and evo mr dv with a dynoflash. my time in my sig were also in 100 degree track temps and my total spent is only $1600 in mods. i'm sure with a lil better driving i could accomplish closer to a 12.0. also, i had all my mods installed except for the cams, sent my ecu off for a dynoflash and got it back, then i drove an hour to get my cams installed with the ecu already flashed for the cams. it rode slightly unnormal but not noticeable enough to a new driver. if anything, the car smelled really rich when coming to a stop, which was expectable. hope this helped a lil more.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 07:54 PM
  #18  
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From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by freshsrt-4
btw, i have pretty close to the same mods as you but i have gsc 272 cams, walbro 255 fp and evo mr dv with a dynoflash. my time in my sig were also in 100 degree track temps and my total spent is only $1600 in mods. i'm sure with a lil better driving i could accomplish closer to a 12.0. also, i had all my mods installed except for the cams, sent my ecu off for a dynoflash and got it back, then i drove an hour to get my cams installed with the ecu already flashed for the cams. it rode slightly unnormal but not noticeable enough to a new driver. if anything, the car smelled really rich when coming to a stop, which was expectable. hope this helped a lil more.
Don't forget to include installation costs...
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 08:20 PM
  #19  
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From: houston
Originally Posted by freshsrt-4
i've seen al post that before on the dynoflash forum. the post was about stock fp's that had been found to be faulty when adding mods/boost and its a good idea to upgrade to the walbro. i know, if al told me to jump off a cliff would i? no, but thats not the point. just giving advice that i was given by a professional and passing it on. either way, it wouldnt hurt.
Al didn't mean the fuel pumps go bad per se, they just can't supply enough fuel for higher hp levels. The still work fine, they just don't have the needed capacity.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 08:27 PM
  #20  
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From: houston
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I'm not sure you actually read what we wrote. You will _NOT_ be anywhere near 12.0s with your planned mods. If you add a flash, JDM MR DV, and IC piping to what you have now, you will likely not even hit 12.5s in Las Vegas on 91oct with high elevation and heat.

You will need cams, MR DV, and a custom tune to even get close to 12.0s on pump gas, especially if you only have 91oct for daily driving. 12.0s are not a joke. Not only will it require more mods than you're planning, but it will also take very good driving. I'm hoping you realize this...
Is it possible to rip a low 12 on the stock clutch with the basic mods like warr has? I mean, every time I feel like I've about nailed a good launch on the stock clutch, with enough slip to keep the revs up and around peak torque, the clutch never catches up, it just keep slipping until you let off the gas. Maintain revs to anything less than the rpm's around peak torque, and the car bogs. Anything more and it takes about 2 days for the burnt clutch smell to vacate the cabin

I'll be the first to admit I suk as a drag racer, but I just can't see how anyone can be consistantly good at 60' on the stock clutch. With a little more clutch, I can see where a good slip can be followed by basically a dump, and the clutch bites instead of slipping.

If this is the case, you better add a clutch to the list to reach 12.0's.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 08:52 PM
  #21  
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From: Long Island, NY
I was doing consistent 12.2-12.3s on the stock clutch with a cat-back with a best 60' of 1.71 until I fried it from all the slipped launches. Even better is dsm95hybrid who is now down to 11.75 and 117+mph on his stock clutch with around 130 launches while utilizing the 5k limiter as a stutterbox. I now am on the basic ACT HDSS and run 12.0-12.1s, but it's the same launch technique. I can't dump, because I rip all 4 tires off the ground all the way through first, so using my same technique, my 60's are no better than before on average.

Your discourse about launching at peak torque confuses me, though, because we hit peak torque at 3600-3800. I launch around 6k, so I'm always well above peak torque. Of course, my rpms drop as I let the clutch grab and feather it off the line, but my logger shows no readings below 4700 at worst, which is still 1k above peak torque.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 09:10 PM
  #22  
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From: houston
here's my technique, so please feel free to comment and offer better methods as mine don't seem to work.

Rev up to 5500 rpm or slow, let the clutch out while nailing the throttle trying to modulate the clutch to keep rpms about 4000 rpm. Sort of like a 1/2 way dump, with the clutch peddle still depressed about 1/2 way. As soon as the car starts to squat and you can hear/feel the car start to make power, let the clutch out more, trying to feather it to maintain 4000 rpm. If my technique works, I'll end up dumping the clutch, but by now the rpm's just continue to steadlily rise while the car goes nowhere. If I'm off by about 500 rpm on the low side (say around 3500 rpm or so), it bogs a bit and I end up double clutching to get the rpm's back up. Granted, this is all happening very quickly and I don't have datalogging capabilities, so my rpm references could be off by 200 rpm or so. I've had a couple out of maybe 100 that I felt were GOOD, and the feeling that followed was "damn! this sucker is quick!"

Any suggestions?
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 09:15 PM
  #23  
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Yeah, you're killing the clutch if you're leaving it halfway engaged. I get the rpms up to around 6k, let out the clutch slightly until it starts to engage, and then just as I start to roll I hammer the gas while letting out the clutch quickly.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 09:27 PM
  #24  
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From: houston
good advice, I'll try it.

Tricky, this launching stuff is.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 10:27 PM
  #25  
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From: sc
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Yeah, you're killing the clutch if you're leaving it halfway engaged. I get the rpms up to around 6k, let out the clutch slightly until it starts to engage, and then just as I start to roll I hammer the gas while letting out the clutch quickly.
Yeah kinda like the max torque you can apply without slippage, then accelerator to the floor when it's good and engaged, and if you don't spin or hop it's like "HOLD ON" - slingshot.
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 10:31 PM
  #26  
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From: nc
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Don't forget to include installation costs...
that does include my installation cost. the only mod i paid for to get installed were the cams. everything else i installed myself. matt55(evoM member) and his father installed them for me at his garage and charged me less than $200. just to clarify again, i only paid $1600 for my mods and that includes MY installation costs.
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