I know most people don't believe in G-techs or other devices like it, but I've been using one for a couple months and it seems very consistant and in line with a mustang dyno or dyno dynamics. Anyways I was board, so I put together some charts with my VIII and IX.

First, let's look at the VIII with three different setups......

The Black chart is the VIII stock with NGK BPR7ES plugs.

The Green chart is the VIII with JDM MR DV, Xede, WORKS TBE, NGK BPR7ES & HKS Panel Filter. The Xede had the 330+ map off the Vishnu web site. The map was pretty lean and I had knock, so I had to tune it, which leads us to our next chart...

The Red chart is with the same setup as the green one, but after I added fuel and pull a litle timing to get rid of the knock.



Now let's look at the VIII vs the IX

The Black chart is the IX stock with only a HKS panel filter.

The Red chart is the VIII stock with NGK BPR7ES plugs.



The last one is the IX vs the modded VIII

The Black chart is the IX stock with only a HKS panel filter.

The Red chart is the VIII with JDM MR DV, Xede, WORKS TBE, NGK BPR7ES & HKS Panel Filter, with the 330+ map detuned by me to get rid of knock.



Again, flame if you want, I was board and just wanted to share my findings with eveyone, even if people don't like/trust G-techs.

 

Thanks for the information. I'd be interested to see what happens when you put a TBE and tune on the IX.

 

I dont know how accurate the G-tech is for Horsepower, but I used mine at the drag strip and it was dead on for the trap time and about .02 seconds off for the quarter time.

 

I will dyno the IX with just the TBE and then again with TBE and tuning. I don't know if I'm gonna wait for the Xede harness or get a flash. I'll probably wait for the xede harness.

Just to make it clear, I use the G-tech Pro RR. I used the old G-tech (black box) before and it seemed not that accurate. The new G-tech seems very accurate if you set it up correctly.

 

It may not spit out a good baseline number but the hp and tq increase or decrease is accurate which is the important thing, not your baseline dyno

 

I think it is a pretty reliable source of info to make sure you are heading in the right direction at least. Not to sound like a conspiracy theorist but I trust a non-vendors info to be more objective than most vendors anyway. This guy has nothing to gain by altering or cherry picking his findings.

Good Job.

 

I also have the GTech RR and it works suprisingly well. Mine reads pretty close to the same as the local Dynojet. I have never used the 1/4 mile feature though.

 

What is the vehicle weight?

 

My Evo 7 is 245hp by the G-tech meter.

Evo 9 FQ340 from Germany with APS exhaust is 280hp!!!

The vehicles weight is around 3384lbs = curb weight plus gas weight plus driver weight.
Probably the US spec version is heavier than this.

 

I'm curious, what info do you put in to the g-tech? I know how they work, but I'm curious as to how it factors in certain mods/info to get the numbers.

 

Here are some plots I made comparing my GT3076 (29psi) to my RX6 (27psi). I use 3600lbs for the weight.

 

I use the the curb weight (3262 for the VIII, 3273 for the IX), plus my weight and minus any gas I'm missing.

Curb weight is the weight of the car with all fluids full (gas, oil, collent).

 

I think yours reads close to a dynojet because you use too high of a curb weight.

 

I thought that the curb weight = car without any fluids.

btw, the weight of the FQ model was measured at a vehicle balance/scale.

 

According to my company scales, my car w/ full tank of fuel, my 215lbs, and other misc stuff (laptop, auto kit, etc) weighs 3507 lbs. I don't know why I chose 3600lbs but I am not going to change it now. All I care about is the differences anyways.