wouldn't mix and matching pads disrupt brake balance?

 

I suppose if you ran stock pads out back and ST-41/3 up front, it'd could be considerable, but with relatively similar pads it should be ok. I know of many BMW club cars that run mix and match set ups.

Good question though, I'd like to know what others think.

 

check this thread at http://www.dcevoclub.com

http://forums.dcevoclub.com/showthread.php?t=2724

good luck with the car...

 

My bad! Duh!

 

well, first off I dont know your track experience and driving skill. I dont know really what you plan to do. So I will just assume you have some on track experience and just plan to do HPDE events no time attack and club racing. Ok so you want to do HPDE events, well there is nothing you have to do. I would say just get a decent brake fluid and maybe some nicer pads (already have some examples listed). But probably the biggest is go to a driving school. I went to four classes at the official Mid-Ohio school and those improve you a lot, driving training has the BEST return on how fast you are because this sport is most of all driver development. You should know this as HPDE's mean nothing as a sport against competitiors, except improving yourself.

I dont know your budget or whatever so, I cant know what your plan is... but dont skimp on the driver training and if you want to do mods, go ahead but there really arnt necessary mods for HPDE driving. Anyway, good luck and why dont you consider autox? Autox has taught me some good lessons at car control, and it only gets more important when on a roadcourse speeds are even faster and car control is even more important!

- I hope this helps some...

 

Correct.

Agreed, less in the case where they may be known issues or gotcha's associated with 20-25 minute on track sessions with this car out of the box.

Thank you.

I know. That's why the basis of this thread is not "How to make this an HPDE competition machine?".

In theory at least, I agree. If the pads will fade, proper pads are necessary.

Auto-x teaches bad track habits and frustrates me as the seat time is so limited. I have a small collection of auto-x trophies. I have good car control and have re-trained myself to be smooth on track opposed to "jerky" like one is autocrossing.

I have a BMW Club Car. I don't need a budget for this car. Just brakes that stop and a motor that runs well enough to get home at the end of the weekend. If it's all there less pads and rotors, that's all I was asking.

If after a couple events there is something I want to improve, I will ask different questions.


Thank you,
Thomas

 

To be decently quick, have alot of fun, and a well working car:

1. better pads: With the stock tires or comparable sticky street tires, take a look at DS2500, PF 97s, etc etc. Porterfields don't work so well on evos. (at least on the front)
2. better fluid: I personally have been using Motul 600 for years, it works well, some use ATE blue
3. Remove the front brake dust shields: This helps a bit with brake heat.
4. Change the oil with good synthetic (mobil1 or the like) before and after every track event. High temps degrades oil and the evo makes high temps
5. Upgrade the rear swaybar to a larger and adjustable one: The evo handles great, but it's still a FWD based car and won't feel like your RWD. The larger rear bar will help and the adjustable will help you find the setting that matches your driving.
6. Performance alignment The evo likes negative camber up front because of the suspension design. If you are serious about open tracking, -2.5 to 2.9 works well and is still daily drivable.
7. Change the rear diff / tranny / transfer case fluids every 10k miles if you track often. More if you are really ****.
8. Stainless steel brake lines.

To beat up on well-driven Corvettes / Ferraris / Porsches / etc:

1. Coilovers: The key to these are getting someone that knows how to set them up well for the evo.
2. R-compounds RA1s work great and last long. Toyo's are great as well. The evo also benefits from a bit more tire because of it's weight. You can run 255 wide rubber without and fender rolling if used with a proper offset wheel. 275 wide and you need to roll the rear fender and could have issues up front with suspension clearance depending on what type you are using and offsets of wheels. Hoosiers, etc are another story.
3. More power. Do a search, there are a bunch of different ways and paths to go on this.

To be safe:

1. Roll bar Autopower makes a good bolt-in solution for under $400.
2. Quality harness Schroth and others.

There are lots other little things that I didn't list or forgot since it's late but this should give you a good start!

Best of all, have fun!

 

RS is not easy to drive fast on the track especially if you have never driven an non-ABS car at the track before. (It's not just the ABS, it's actually the combination of missing both ABS+EBD)

One thing I'll recommend (this is for the RS owner only) is that don't bring your brand new ao46 tires to your first track day. You will flatspot your brand new tires and you'll be kicking yourself on your way home. See if you can buy a set of used tires for your first track day.

Wear a thin sole shoes if you don't have racing shoes already. You need to "really feel" your brake pedal with an non-ABS car.

I personally don't recommend remove the backing plate if this is also your daily driver especially if you live in an area with alot of rain. Remember, your RS don't have ABS.

Oh btw, see if you can find an instructor who is familiar with non-ABS car. The easiest way to do is probably finding one who races spec Miata.

 

Thank you.

 

I am used driving with the nanny and abs/bas/etc disabled on the MB, "Dyno Mode".
I have okley low top driving shoes I am used to and comfortable with.
NASA has been very good about matching me to instructors in the past.

Thanks for the sound advice.

 

Only thing I have to say about the autox thing is that... yes it tends to be jerky... in a way, however you can be smooth on an autox - its just the amount of time between inputs and reaction time has to be so quick, it could seem like you have to be jerky... but the things that are "jerky" on a road course could be... sawing at the wheel, bad on/off ing with the gas and maybe brakes, etc - well these are things you dont necessarily learn from autox - you may get away with it a little more or it wont be as obvious at an autox but if you can get smooth precise inputs on an autox its gonna benefit you to develop that... I just think you blame autox driving way to easily.

I would never say its a bad thing to do autox, if you can get good at autox I wager you WILL be a better track driver... you may say "oh I get jerky on the track cause of autox" I suppose that could be but like you said - just make the distinction between events and consider the need to improve your autox skill... i dunno. But if you flat out just dont really enjoy autox, then thats your choice to not do that and thats ok. I just thought I would throw in my little .02 !



- I hope this helps some, I too am guilty of being un smooth on track at times

 

-Thanks Andrew.


-Picked up the car last night.
-Never driven a turbo car before. Nice.
-2.1 turns lock to lock. Really Nice.
-5 speed close ratio. Really really Nice.
-This thing is unholy.
-I am no longer a "To-Be owner"

 

the car is a blast to track.

but regarding your first post about warranty, if you sneeze, you'll kiss it goodbye.

I can't think of an easier way to raise eyebrows, than to come in for a service, with a cage, or a roll bar. And the first time you get your brakes hot, they'll turn more of a burgandy, with dark rust colored "brembro" lettering, thats a sign you've been at the track

You will need at least a 4 pt to stay in the seat, and a roll bar is obviously recommended, but many people run without them, with belts that schroth puts out (clip through the seat back).

Brake Fluid flush is a must, i'd reccommend the motive power bleeder.

I might even advise you to run something like 70/30 (water to coolant) for the summers up there, then switch back for winter. I live in florida, and no switching is needed.

Lastly, ra-1's are awesome, but don't buy them and hit the track the first time with them. Chew up the stockies first, and you'll realize how neutral the evo is stock (i added a rear tower bar, big whoop) and still the car is as neutral as can be (stock MR suspension).

 

awesome, have fun with the RS dude, sounds like its gonna be a blast

 

I totally agree with everything you mentioned here. After tracking the EVO on stock suspension (VIII GSR) several times vs. using a larger/adjustable rear sway bar--Huge difference. Much easier to rotate the car, and helps create more of a "neutral feel" to the car.
Also, everyone should heed your #8: Always use SS brake lines on the track. This should be at the top of list (along w/ high temp brake fluid!) You can never be too save!