AEM or Flash
I wasn't harsh - I was direct. I gave all the answers, then gave him things to think about, so that he will hopefully think things through next time. Some people get upset and don't learn - others get the picture and grow. Everything said (including the tone) is for the purpose of helping the guy not ruin his car and waste money. Treating him like a baby and saying "coochie-coo" is not going to get the point across.
i plan on slowly building up to a pretty fast evo and there's nobody around here that really does flashes, and thats why i want to get the AEM instead of getting flashes and later on have to buy an AEM
Here, I'll try to help you out. I'm going to have to make some assumptions but it looks like your trying to figure out what mods to do to your car.
Your standalone vs flash question was already answered (over 500hp get a standalone, under 500hp go with a flash). You probably dont have 500hp or you wouldnt be asking this question so ...
Here is where most of us start out.
Turboback exhast, mbc, accurate boost gauge, and Tuning. Evo's respond very well to these mods and your IX could be making over 300whp with these mods. It's a good street car setup and I'm personally happy with this level of performance, reliability, and drivability.
More about tuning.
Tuning.. you have some choices here. All have upsides and downsides (search and browse). I"m currently doing option 2, although I've done option 1.
option 1: You can purchase mods, install them, and then have your car custom tuned in person (Road or Dyno or both). You may have to wait for a tuner to come to your area or even organize a tuning event.
option 2: If your willing to do lots of searching, learning, and reading then you can get a Tactrix cable and work with a tuner that provides e-flashing, I also suggest you get a wideband and learn how to datalog. READ the ECU Flash forum. One benefit of going this route is you can return the car to stock on your own if necessary. Also you will have the ability to log your car and make sure that whatever your doing is safe.
Option 3: You can buy a staged upgrade package which comes with mods and a tune all in 1 bundle.
Your standalone vs flash question was already answered (over 500hp get a standalone, under 500hp go with a flash). You probably dont have 500hp or you wouldnt be asking this question so ...
Here is where most of us start out.
Turboback exhast, mbc, accurate boost gauge, and Tuning. Evo's respond very well to these mods and your IX could be making over 300whp with these mods. It's a good street car setup and I'm personally happy with this level of performance, reliability, and drivability.
More about tuning.
Tuning.. you have some choices here. All have upsides and downsides (search and browse). I"m currently doing option 2, although I've done option 1.
option 1: You can purchase mods, install them, and then have your car custom tuned in person (Road or Dyno or both). You may have to wait for a tuner to come to your area or even organize a tuning event.
option 2: If your willing to do lots of searching, learning, and reading then you can get a Tactrix cable and work with a tuner that provides e-flashing, I also suggest you get a wideband and learn how to datalog. READ the ECU Flash forum. One benefit of going this route is you can return the car to stock on your own if necessary. Also you will have the ability to log your car and make sure that whatever your doing is safe.
Option 3: You can buy a staged upgrade package which comes with mods and a tune all in 1 bundle.
If you prefer to spoon-feed and coddle, then go ahead and do it. You still have not responded to the question, yet I have provided a lot of helpful information. Worry less about how I respond and more about how you respond. Provide your "tactful" response instead of talking about...
I'm running a JestrTune this time and so far I am extremely pleased with his customer service and his work. I am still working with my car right now because of a issue I brought upon myself by connecting my boost controller / gauge to the stock boost gauge line location - There is a little brass pill in there that probably protects the stock gauge, but it was preventing me from seeing some 27+ psi boost spikes that were showing up in the logs.
Last edited by Mr. Evo IX; Jan 23, 2007 at 02:26 PM.
