sitting still, set parking brake, raise engine rpm until you hear what you think is the knock and keep at this rpm, push in clutch, put in first gear, let out clutch slowly until it starts to grab. If knock goes away when clutch starts to grab then you have a rod bearing knock.

 

as long as you keep a log and receipts for your fluid changes they have to honor your warranty.

 

Interesting, So i keep the parking brake up the whole time im doing this?

 

The best way to check for "Rod Knock" is to get it in third gear, up to 4000-4500 and let off the throttle to put load on the bearings. If your going to hear it, this will be the time. Also, send a sample in for analysis, you can find a couple of places that do it for $20, just take a sample on your next oil change. Do a search for "oil analysis" there's a link in some of the threads on here.

 

I tried this just right now, and the sound did not go away,it may just be the normal engine sound, but i am not sure. I checked the oil yesterday and it was good. Anything else?

 

One way to check for rod knock---if you have an oil pressure gauge--I dont know the status of your gauges...but it you have a bad bearing-- the oil pressure will be lower at all but maybe high readings (high rpms) It will be down by 10 psi or there abouts over what would be your std readings. (especially at idle).Or you can drive it and it will get louder and louder until if fails--it wont take long.

 

I need to invest in a few more gauges, only have boost right now. But this is a noise i think ive been hearing for over a month now, if it were rod knock would the engine have failed by now?

 

hope you have a fire extinguisher if it does! oil coming through a hole in the block all over hot turbo's and pipes is not a good combo!
by the way, do you have cams? maybe you have a collapsed lifter? are you still under warranty?

 

I do not have cams, the only thing the car has is a TBE. How would i know if i have a collapsed lifter?

 

i'm not sure of any easy way to tell other than sound. anyone else? maybe a stethescope on the valve cover to listen?

 

Hm i see, any idea of what it might sound like.. I know its really hard to figure this out over a forum, just looking for any ideas. Thanks!

 

Not necessarily. You might be able to drive it, but you would definately feel the power loss with the rod knock. Lifter noise is similar to clock ticking

 

Yea i haven't felt any power loss at all either..

 

The absolutely best way to detect rod knock IS:

drop your oil pan.

By doing this you actually be able to measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge. If its out of spec, replace or rebuild your engine. Easy as pie

 

rod knock is not from excessive side play in the connecting rods- which you could measure with a feeler gauge with the oil pan off. It is from too much clearance between the bearing and the crank pin- which you don't measure with a feeler gauge. Obviously pulling the oil pan and pulling the rod caps will answer the question. But, why go thru all that trouble if he has no idea what rod knock sounds like? The test I posted was told to me by an old mechanic and has been 100% reliable for me in the past- I've used this on several cars with spun bearings (not all mine) and every time it fails the test the engine has at least one trashed rod bearing.

if you have one bad bearing, oil pressure can still be ok.

If you passed the diagnosis test then I'd have someone mechanically experienced listen. It's probably just valvetrain noise. Oh, and yes, parking brake set the entire time for the test. You are trying to almost stall the car at which point the knock will disappear if it's a bad rod bearing