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is Mitsubishi service trying to screw me over...?

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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 10:30 AM
  #16  
19psi's Avatar
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bed-in your pads/rotors.

Improperly bedding in your pads/rotors is the most probable reason why you're
getting steering wheel pulsation whhile braking @ high speeds.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 10:39 AM
  #17  
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I'm not going to say we have the same problem but I had what seems to be what your experiencing. Changed rotors/pads and a did proper break-in and couldn't think of anything else. Put new tires on and all issues disappeared.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 10:46 AM
  #18  
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A

thats weird i had the same problem so changed all rotors and pads with aftermarket and mine work fine now. but id talk 2 the serv manager first.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by JDMevoBOOST
I bet this is a pad bedding issue
Absolutely. What is commonly mis-diagnosed as rotor warpage is almost always uneven pad deposits on the surface of the rotor...according to what I've read, anyway.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 01:08 PM
  #20  
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you can resurface the stock rotors only 1 time, maybe twice. That's it.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 01:24 PM
  #21  
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Brake performance AND wear is all about heat. The thinner the pads AND rotors the less surface area there is available to dissipate the heat produced from braking. So once they are warped you have to cut or turn them, but they'll also warp faster due to the fact that they are now thinner. The more you cut the faster they warp. It's a vicious downward spiral.

Brakes and Clutch are considered a wear items and are not covered after 12 months/12,000-miles and are never covered for abuse.

Your best bet at this point it to replace the rotors. I'd get the runout on the old rotors though and match that against the factory specified range of wear.

On your new rotors do a search and find out how to break-in the brakes in correctly and avoid braking down long hills during the first 300 miles with the new set-up.

Make sure the wheels are torqued to spec because I've seen that cause issues with warping the hubs.

I hope this helps.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 02:20 PM
  #22  
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Dont replace your rotors with such low mileage. Follow the advise for bedding your pads. That will fix your problem. I don't see why they are so quick to tell you to replace your rotors. This is a common problem, and easily fixed.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 02:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by steevo
Dont replace your rotors with such low mileage. Follow the advise for bedding your pads. That will fix your problem. I don't see why they are so quick to tell you to replace your rotors. This is a common problem, and easily fixed.
Did you miss this part of my post??

I'd get the runout on the old rotors though and match that against the factory specified range of wear.

You don't know jack about the rotors until you measure the runout and thickness first. If they've been cut twice they likely are too thin, but you need to check first.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 03:20 PM
  #24  
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^^ Yeah, but my advise was meant for him to never had them cut the first time. Yeah, if he's cut them twice, they probably need to be replaced. But if the new ones start to have the same problem, he might bed them and not cut them.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 04:08 PM
  #25  
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Ah, okay I misunderstood.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 06:11 PM
  #26  
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I had 8k miles on my car when I took it in to the dealership because my 3rd synchro was messed up. They kept my car for 1 1/2 months to repair it and they tried to charge me like 1200 to repair it... I still had 50 or 60k mile drivetrain warranty...
My dad called them and told them if they did not honor there warranty we would get a lawyer and go somewhere else to get our vehicles ( I have bought 2 there in 2 years) RX-8 then traded it back to them for my evo) sure enough they honored the warranty then lol...
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