lowered evos with bigger rear sway
-the srping rate is the same as the megans = It's better to swap the rates front to rear so that it's more like the stock configuration (e.g. 6k/8k or 8k/10k, etc)
-i made a thread about that and no good responses, so i will do that asap = Ah, sorry. Point me to the thread, and I'll try to help.
-can a local shop do this as well? = Yes, but usually not a regular alignment/tire shop. You need to do this at a true suspension tuning shop that knows what they're doing
-yea they arent as good as the stock tires thats for sure = Nor as good as cheaper replacement tires for the Advans, such as RT-615s or Kumho MXs. Weak tires like this will tend to understeer due to lack of front grip
-and no i dont = Wow, why did you get Tanabe coilovers then?
-i made a thread about that and no good responses, so i will do that asap = Ah, sorry. Point me to the thread, and I'll try to help.
-can a local shop do this as well? = Yes, but usually not a regular alignment/tire shop. You need to do this at a true suspension tuning shop that knows what they're doing
-yea they arent as good as the stock tires thats for sure = Nor as good as cheaper replacement tires for the Advans, such as RT-615s or Kumho MXs. Weak tires like this will tend to understeer due to lack of front grip
-and no i dont = Wow, why did you get Tanabe coilovers then?
If I remember right, I think there was an old thread by David Buschur talking about that
corner weights are changed by throwing the car on scales and adjusting ride height/spring preload at each corner until the lt ft/rt rr = rt ft/lt rr in weight all the while trying to keep lt and rt side weight of car as close as possible. btw this should be done with you sitting in the drivers seat(also why lt side of car ends up being a bit heavier than the rt.
Yes, I said corner weighting and corner balancing - I did not say COUNTER weights. Even so, any real shop would have known what you were trying to say, so I wouldn't use those guys for your suspension tuning services.
You need to get the cross weights of the car (Left-front/Right-rear and Right-front/Left-rear as Smack said) as close to 50/50 as possible.
You need to get the cross weights of the car (Left-front/Right-rear and Right-front/Left-rear as Smack said) as close to 50/50 as possible.
that's because it's called CORNER or CROSS weight. and most allignment shops won't be able to do it.
corner weights are changed by throwing the car on scales and adjusting ride height/spring preload at each corner until the lt ft/rt rr = rt ft/lt rr in weight all the while trying to keep lt and rt side weight of car as close as possible. btw this should be done with you sitting in the drivers seat(also why lt side of car ends up being a bit heavier than the rt.
corner weights are changed by throwing the car on scales and adjusting ride height/spring preload at each corner until the lt ft/rt rr = rt ft/lt rr in weight all the while trying to keep lt and rt side weight of car as close as possible. btw this should be done with you sitting in the drivers seat(also why lt side of car ends up being a bit heavier than the rt.
-1.5 camber front
-1 camber back
0 toe
sound good Warr?? that way i dont go through tires as quick as i would with a 2.0
-2.0 won't hurt the tires. Plus, there's no reason to have a set of coilovers if you aren't going to take advantage of the extra camber. That's what gives you the better handling, although too much can overpower the tires. I'd do at leat -2.0 up front, and -1.0 rear is fine. I also agree with 0 toe. The problem is that you can get these same settings on the stock suspension and totally kick ***, so it's not a big help other than the center of gravity being lower, and the springs being slightly stiffer.
If you get some better tires, you could go -2.5 or so and really rock out.
If you get some better tires, you could go -2.5 or so and really rock out.
-2.0 won't hurt the tires. Plus, there's no reason to have a set of coilovers if you aren't going to take advantage of the extra camber. That's what gives you the better handling, although too much can overpower the tires. I'd do at leat -2.0 up front, and -1.0 rear is fine. I also agree with 0 toe. The problem is that you can get these same settings on the stock suspension and totally kick ***, so it's not a big help other than the center of gravity being lower, and the springs being slightly stiffer.
If you get some better tires, you could go -2.5 or so and really rock out.
If you get some better tires, you could go -2.5 or so and really rock out.
A 2 inch drop is nothing. Just make sure to buy the Whiteline RCA kit, it helps with the front traction on lowered Evo's. I highly recommend a camber of 2.5 degrees up front, and -1 to -.5 in the rear. The stiff heavy rear sway bar will help with your understeer problem, however it may not do much for your lap times. A heavy rear sway bar causes a loss of traction in the rear by allowing the front to roll (because of the loose front sway bar) and the rear not to roll. Since the front has more camber than the rear, the front will roll and have a bigger contact patch with the road than the rear. The rear end will then slide because it has less contact with the road (and in the case of the Evo, the rear is much lighter in weight than the front anyways). Warrtalon is correct for the most part, you cannot just randomly add on suspension parts and hope for the best. You have to put in a lot of track time to test out what each setting does to the handling of the car.
And remember, the absolute best thing you can do for handling on a 2003 Evo, is to install a front LSD. This modification in itself will cure most of your understeer problems.
And remember, the absolute best thing you can do for handling on a 2003 Evo, is to install a front LSD. This modification in itself will cure most of your understeer problems.
Last edited by sonicnofadz; Jul 24, 2007 at 02:33 PM.
