Ttt

 

VTA BOV's will cause an over rich condition when you abruptly close the throttle and cause the RPM's to drop severely. If you search "VTA stalling" in the thread search you should get about eleventy-billion hits.

 

Thank you, I was aware of that though, but I figured that since I had a tune for it I did not need to be worried. I think that I am going to just drop my car off at AMS again in a week or two once they switch shops.

 

You don't get "tuned" for a VTA BOV. The tune has nothing to do with it and has no effect on it.

Dangerous, risky, whatever. You have no business with that car at 17.

 

In more conservative terms, what people are telling you is that the car will only run well if it is (1) left like Mitsu designed it; or (2) modified by someone who understands what the various systems do, and the modifications are properly done.

Whether you're 17 or 77, if you don't know what the modifications do, and how they interrelate to each other, then you're likely to have problems with the way the car performs, and those problems can be catastrophic, depending on which modification was not thought out.

VTA BOVs, in short, vent (and remove from the system) some of the air that has already been measured by the MAS. Since the computer has been told by the MAS that there is a certain amount of air in the intake tract, the computer sends the appropriate amount of fuel to match the air it thinks is in the intake tract. Since the BOV has vented some of that air outside the system, there's too much fuel, and the car puffs smoke and runs rich, which can cause your bucking.

You can't "tune" for that -- the MAS will still measure the air going through it, and the BOV will still vent some of that air to atmosphere in certain conditions, which causes the rich condition, etc. etc. etc. Cars that can safely vent to atmosphere are using speed density systems, which are a completely different way for the computer to calculate the fuel demands of the motor.

I'd suggest that you take the car to AMS and have them give you suggestions on how to get your car running properly. It may require you to reinstall factory recirculation parts. Then read all you can about the basic operations of your car, and ask them to explain which of the modifications you may consider in the future would actually benefit you and WHY.

Good luck with your car.

 

I'm totally confused here, in one post you said the car was not in gear and the clutch was pressed in but it moved forward when the gas was to the floor. Then, KevinD ask you to confirm this was true and you said it was a typo.

However your original posts still reads "I decided to simply rev my engine while not in gear and well... it seems to bounce at 4500 rpm level (pedal to the floor) for a few seconds, then it seems to "catch" and then take off? Keep in mind i was not in gear and had the clutch fully pressed in."

Are you mistaking the clutch being pressed and the shifter in 1st as the car not being in gear? If not then I am totally confused....

We can't help unless you can clearly explain what the problem. Please try again but before you hit that post reply button re-read what you wrote as if you had no idea what was going on and see if it makes sense then. I am not trying to critisize you, just trying to help.

 

that is YOUR opinion and you know what they say about opinions and a5sholes.
Just because you didn't have a modified car @ 17 doesn't mean its the right way and he has no business having one.
If you don't have anything to help the situation why bother posting at all unless your motive is to make the kid feel bad and boost your ego by saying "I told you so".
I know a couple of teenagers, one who doesn't even have his license yet, that are very knowledgable about cars and how to fix them. Buying a modified car and fixing it when things go is an excellent way to get your feet wet.

 

When it comes to an ignition, there are two reliable sources. STOCK, and Buschur racing. Everyone knows those Hks units suck. With your level of hardware, you need a Buschur Ignition system. Sure its like $1200, but its worth it. And also, be clear when you post. Type what you mean.

 

this is the most stupid post I have ever seen you posted.

 

The jerking in fourth gear is compressor surge. You need to downshift and keep bigger turbos in their sweet spot.

The off throttle stumbling is a combination of cams and VTA. No big deal just tap the throttle a little to bring it back.

The 4500rpm thing sounds more like a stationary launch limiter but I don't know what you mean about the catch and go part.

Please explain what you mean by eventually catch and go. If the car rolls forward while the clutch is fully depressed than you need to adjust it via pedal or rod legth.

 

For the ignition break up problem just take the hks box out of the equation, it should just be a matter of unplugging it and reconnecting the ignition harness to it's stock point. I have heard of these boxes going out from time to time. If that doesn't help the problem ask a buddy to swap spark plug wires with you real quick as I've had similar issues with wires that were aesthetically fine but had just gone to crap.

 

what r u his dad??? who r u to tell someone what car they have business owning. like 'alwaysinboost' said, if ur not gonna try and help the situation then stop pumping up ur 18933274 post count and stay out of the thread.

as for ur probs man, the rpm dipping low is definetly the VTA bov but as for the rest im not to sure, my car isnt heavily modded like urs so i dont wanna steer u in the wrong direction with what i might think, since ur close to AMS id say theyre ur best bet to figuring out what is goin on. good luck man

 

Yes... The car was NOT in gear. The car does not move at all when i am doing this. I was reffering to the engine taking off... not the car itself. I revved the engine (in neutral with the shifter, and the clutch pedal fully pressed in) and it revs to about 4500rpm, it pauses there and will not increase, and then it begins to act like it used to and goes way past 4500rpm. It has the rev limiter removed and two-step installed, as well.

Sorry for the late reply, my basement flooded, which is where my computer is.

TJ

 

Actually, I had problems about two-three weeks ago and AMS did the same thing by removing that HKS unit for me and reconnecting to stock ignition wires for me. It fixed the problem then... However I am having a problem like that again, but definitely not the same. When the HKS ignition failed, half of my engine turned off and it sounded like a atv... I had it towed home and AMS helped me out. And if you notice in the pictures, it still is in the car but is no longer connected in anyway. ... Does HKS offer any type of warranty for these devices? Thank you,

TJ

 

I always thought that the VTA BOV was going to be a problem, but I assumed I was tune for it but from what you all are saying that the MAF is still going to rear the same amount of air into the car, it makes sense. thanks for explaining that to me