a little hard to shift
Forget it no reason to be rude, I really dont understand peoples problems on this forum are. Being a Newbie that is the last thing I was expecting to hear someone bark at me! Good luck anyways. I have read nothing but VERY bad things about putting anything but OEM fluids in ANYWHERE on the Evo. So i was simply saying Good luck and not being sarcastic. No reason to jump down my throat!
This is exactly how misinformation gets spread. People think they know what they're reading without actual experience and try to reiterate the info back. Alot of times people dont know what in the world they are talking about but once someone says one thing they are automatically conditioned to make a certain reply. Case in point, they only thing you read was redline mt90 and your automatic response was to change it out and only use OEM fluids. The bigger problem is whether it was reading comprehension or lack of knowledge which caused you to make that response. Because you are a newbie you should not respond unless you are sure of your answer and not try to create confusion.
FYI I am newbie to the forum not to imports
Last edited by 06MRV8Killer; Oct 15, 2007 at 04:16 PM.
It is natural for the Evo to be difficult shifting when it is cold first thing in the morning. It doesn't matter which fluid is in the car. They all do it, including OEM fluids. After it warms up then it shifts just fine.
oem fluids only
http://sevo.motionforum.net/drivetra...luids-t139.htm
this is what other fluids look like this is when i did a clutch job on a guys evo8
http://sevo.motionforum.net/drivetra...luids-t139.htm
this is what other fluids look like this is when i did a clutch job on a guys evo8
oem fluids only
http://sevo.motionforum.net/drivetra...luids-t139.htm
this is what other fluids look like this is when i did a clutch job on a guys evo8
http://sevo.motionforum.net/drivetra...luids-t139.htm
this is what other fluids look like this is when i did a clutch job on a guys evo8
I tried the Redline MT 90...didn't like it
Tried Royal purple..no luck there
Tried Royal purple 2qts1qt MT90...still didn't hit the Gspot
i'm using BG syncroshift now...still a little notchy but better than prior
MR SUperdiaqueen is the stuff that is liquid sex. $70 for it...but it's worth it from the feed back i have gotten.
just my .02c
Tried Royal purple..no luck there
Tried Royal purple 2qts1qt MT90...still didn't hit the Gspot
i'm using BG syncroshift now...still a little notchy but better than prior
MR SUperdiaqueen is the stuff that is liquid sex. $70 for it...but it's worth it from the feed back i have gotten.
just my .02c
Last edited by Evoryder; Oct 15, 2007 at 09:37 PM.
You're having difficulty shifting when it's cold because MT-90 is rated 75-90W whereas the stock fluid is 75-85W. So the MT-90 is a little thicker.
06MRV8Killer, no one is taking you seriously because: your comments were extreme, your comment was not based on personal experience, and you had nothing to back it up.
The cases that I've researched on this forum where people have had issues with Redline fluids is because they used the inappropriate fluid. Such as using MTL (which is too thin) and tracking the car. I personally wouldn't even use a mix of MTL and MT-90. I used MT-90 for 100k miles in my Nissan and about to put it into the Evo. Also, if you read up on BGII, it's also too thin and does not hold up to track use based on the experiences of others on this forum (search button comes in handy).
For some reason right after a gear oil change it seems more difficult to change gears, however after about 5k miles it seems to get smoother again. weird, i know but maybe give it some time.
No. There are PLENTY of people on this forum that use Redline products in the entire drivetrain, track the hell out of their cars (Razorlab comes to mind) with no issues at all.
You're having difficulty shifting when it's cold because MT-90 is rated 75-90W whereas the stock fluid is 75-85W. So the MT-90 is a little thicker.
06MRV8Killer, no one is taking you seriously because: your comments were extreme, your comment was not based on personal experience, and you had nothing to back it up.
The cases that I've researched on this forum where people have had issues with Redline fluids is because they used the inappropriate fluid. Such as using MTL (which is too thin) and tracking the car. I personally wouldn't even use a mix of MTL and MT-90. I used MT-90 for 100k miles in my Nissan and about to put it into the Evo. Also, if you read up on BGII, it's also too thin and does not hold up to track use based on the experiences of others on this forum (search button comes in handy).
You're having difficulty shifting when it's cold because MT-90 is rated 75-90W whereas the stock fluid is 75-85W. So the MT-90 is a little thicker.
06MRV8Killer, no one is taking you seriously because: your comments were extreme, your comment was not based on personal experience, and you had nothing to back it up.
The cases that I've researched on this forum where people have had issues with Redline fluids is because they used the inappropriate fluid. Such as using MTL (which is too thin) and tracking the car. I personally wouldn't even use a mix of MTL and MT-90. I used MT-90 for 100k miles in my Nissan and about to put it into the Evo. Also, if you read up on BGII, it's also too thin and does not hold up to track use based on the experiences of others on this forum (search button comes in handy).
My comments were not extreme, there are plenty of people on the forum (and right in this thread) that would agree and lots of respected mechanics that say to only use OEM fluids. Your right I dont know from experience because I'm not foolish enough to put anything but OEM fluids in my car. I surely dont want to shell out thousands of dollars for a rebuild when I could have spent the extra $ and put the right fluids in the first time.
Also if you call working for mitsubishi and seeing countless drivetrains DESTROYED from using NON-OEM fluids then I guess I am inexperienced.
My comments were not extreme, there are plenty of people on the forum (and right in this thread) that would agree and lots of respected mechanics that say to only use OEM fluids. Your right I dont know from experience because I'm not foolish enough to put anything but OEM fluids in my car. I surely dont want to shell out thousands of dollars for a rebuild when I could have spent the extra $ and put the right fluids in the first time.
Also if you call working for mitsubishi and seeing countless drivetrains DESTROYED from using NON-OEM fluids then I guess I am inexperienced.
Also if you call working for mitsubishi and seeing countless drivetrains DESTROYED from using NON-OEM fluids then I guess I am inexperienced.
No. There are PLENTY of people on this forum that use Redline products in the entire drivetrain, track the hell out of their cars (Razorlab comes to mind) with no issues at all.
You're having difficulty shifting when it's cold because MT-90 is rated 75-90W whereas the stock fluid is 75-85W. So the MT-90 is a little thicker.
06MRV8Killer, no one is taking you seriously because: your comments were extreme, your comment was not based on personal experience, and you had nothing to back it up.
The cases that I've researched on this forum where people have had issues with Redline fluids is because they used the inappropriate fluid. Such as using MTL (which is too thin) and tracking the car. I personally wouldn't even use a mix of MTL and MT-90. I used MT-90 for 100k miles in my Nissan and about to put it into the Evo. Also, if you read up on BGII, it's also too thin and does not hold up to track use based on the experiences of others on this forum (search button comes in handy).
You're having difficulty shifting when it's cold because MT-90 is rated 75-90W whereas the stock fluid is 75-85W. So the MT-90 is a little thicker.
06MRV8Killer, no one is taking you seriously because: your comments were extreme, your comment was not based on personal experience, and you had nothing to back it up.
The cases that I've researched on this forum where people have had issues with Redline fluids is because they used the inappropriate fluid. Such as using MTL (which is too thin) and tracking the car. I personally wouldn't even use a mix of MTL and MT-90. I used MT-90 for 100k miles in my Nissan and about to put it into the Evo. Also, if you read up on BGII, it's also too thin and does not hold up to track use based on the experiences of others on this forum (search button comes in handy).
My comments were not extreme, there are plenty of people on the forum (and right in this thread) that would agree and lots of respected mechanics that say to only use OEM fluids. Your right I dont know from experience because I'm not foolish enough to put anything but OEM fluids in my car. I surely dont want to shell out thousands of dollars for a rebuild when I could have spent the extra $ and put the right fluids in the first time.
Also if you call working for mitsubishi and seeing countless drivetrains DESTROYED from using NON-OEM fluids then I guess I am inexperienced.
Also if you call working for mitsubishi and seeing countless drivetrains DESTROYED from using NON-OEM fluids then I guess I am inexperienced.
Again, destroyed trannies are from fluids of improper weights, improper change intervals for usage, etc, not because it's a different brand. I bet there were plenty of destroyed drivetrains WITH OEM fluids too. Using your logic, Mobil 1 is the ONLY oil you should use in the motor. While I've used Mobil 1 exclusively for the past 10 years, I'm also not naive enough to believe that it's the only good oil out there. In fact, from my research, there are plenty of oils rated better now.
Sure, there's good logic in using OEM fluids, it's what the car came with. Heck, there's good logic in using OEM tires too. I guess we should only use the stock Advans.
If you own an Elise/Exige, the OEM "fill" for the motor is some weird blend that Ferrari also uses and costs $40 quart. Hmm.... Last I checked, it was just a slightly tweaked and retuned Celica motor... even comes with a Toyota oil filter off the Lotus lot. Be my guest to use that $40 quart special motor oil though; I'll buy some Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil, etc of the proper weight and put that in at $6-$8 a quart.
If you actually analyzed what the causes of the failures where, instead of just saying, "they weren't OEM fluids", maybe you'd understand.
Last edited by spdracerut; Oct 16, 2007 at 11:54 PM.
i use all redline except for the rear diff.....i use super lightweight sp for the tranny..heavyweight sp in the tc..oem fluid in the rear diff...these people make me laugh like oem is the best and if you dont use it "O NOES!!! THez carz willZ BLOWZ UP"...the superlightweight cured my grinds from 4-5 since i got the car and cured my sometimes 3-4 grind..it shifts like butter...mind you i change this out every 15k
Last edited by SteelEvo; Oct 17, 2007 at 08:03 AM.









