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Just got the call from AMS.....

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Old Nov 15, 2007 | 09:17 PM
  #31  
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^easy does it big guy, not everybody knows everything
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 06:57 AM
  #32  
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From: In the Middle of Everywhere
Originally Posted by GT35REVO8
You obviously dont know much. Upgrade the rods and crank for starters? Well first off why would you touch all that and not the pistons,lol? Also a 2.3 comes with a new crank. So you gonna have a new crank,rods and stock pistons?LOL
Hmm lets analyze this a bit.

“Upgrade the rods and crank for starters? Well first off why would you touch all that and not the pistons,lol? “

Oliver Rods and Knife Edge crank are both upgrades from the base Stroker setup.

In the discussions with AMS these were suggestions. Clearly they “do know much” and are confident that the pistons they include in the stroker setup will suffice.


“Also a 2.3 comes with a new crank. So you gonna have a new crank,rods and stock pistons?LOL”

This is a 2.3 stroker, which means the pistons are oversized from stock considering the displacement has changed. Normally it is not a “New” crank with the stroker short blocks. They resurface the crank from the core you leave them with, when that allows, which in my case did not.


“You obviously dont know much.”

With such limited information you “obviously” were quick to judge. What you should have done was a little research and had your facts straight BEFORE you posted anything on this thread, so that you may appear the slightest bit as knowledgable as you like to think you are.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 07:09 AM
  #33  
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From: omaha
Originally Posted by pbc_2007
so from ams what would be the typical price range for them to through in a stroker?
when i called over 6 months ago they gave me a price estimate of about $6500 for the entire stroker package, including all parts, labor, machining and tuning
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 07:21 AM
  #34  
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From: Indy
TUNE IT!!! Don't forget that important part. I washed out my rings due to not tuning it. Love it otherwise.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 07:36 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by junction
Hmm lets analyze this a bit.

“Upgrade the rods and crank for starters? Well first off why would you touch all that and not the pistons,lol? “

Oliver Rods and Knife Edge crank are both upgrades from the base Stroker setup.

In the discussions with AMS these were suggestions. Clearly they “do know much” and are confident that the pistons they include in the stroker setup will suffice.


“Also a 2.3 comes with a new crank. So you gonna have a new crank,rods and stock pistons?LOL”

This is a 2.3 stroker, which means the pistons are oversized from stock considering the displacement has changed. Normally it is not a “New” crank with the stroker short blocks. They resurface the crank from the core you leave them with, when that allows, which in my case did not.


“You obviously dont know much.”

With such limited information you “obviously” were quick to judge. What you should have done was a little research and had your facts straight BEFORE you posted anything on this thread, so that you may appear the slightest bit as knowledgable as you like to think you are.
Just to straighten out some of what you posted here:

They can not resurface the crank from your core and use it for a stroker. The stock crank is 88 mm and the stroker crank is 100 mm.

Stroker pistons are not necessarily larger than stock in bore, and are often smaller than stock as far as height is concerned. The extra displacement is gained from an increased stroke (hence the "stroker" name), not from larger pistons.

-Paul
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 07:41 AM
  #36  
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From: Afghanistan
Originally Posted by junction
Well oil was really low and car started knockin. So I had it towed to AMS and I got the official call today.

One of the Rod bearings were in the oil pan and the crank is shot.

I am upgrading to their stroker motor.

Anyone out there that has the AMS stroker got any tips or opinions?

probably upgrade the crank and rods for starters.
you motor was still running when you brought it in and you had a rod bearing in the oil pan? i dont even know how thats possible...
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 07:42 AM
  #37  
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From: Eugene, Oregon
AMS FTW!!!!!

You will be riding
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 07:46 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by junction
This is a 2.3 stroker, which means the pistons are oversized from stock considering the displacement has changed.

With such limited information you “obviously” were quick to judge. What you should have done was a little research and had your facts straight BEFORE you posted anything on this thread, so that you may appear the slightest bit as knowledgable as you like to think you are.
ditto...displacement changes from stroke/rod length too. so no, considering the displacment changed doesnt mean the bore did.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 07:51 AM
  #39  
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From: In the Middle of Everywhere
Originally Posted by PVD04
Just to straighten out some of what you posted here:

They can not resurface the crank from your core and use it for a stroker. The stock crank is 88 mm and the stroker crank is 100 mm.

Stroker pistons are not necessarily larger than stock in bore, and are often smaller than stock as far as height is concerned. The extra displacement is gained from an increased stroke (hence the "stroker" name), not from larger pistons.

-Paul
Thanks for settin me straight. But not stock, none the less. They told me resurfacing, unless I misunderstood them. Thanks for the info tho. I like when people are adding something and not counter productive.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 08:24 AM
  #40  
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From: In the Middle of Everywhere
The crank IS in fact new with the short block as someone brought up. The pistons are Ross Racing Pistons.

Made some decisions.

Decided on:
---
2.3 Stroker
Oliver Rods
Pro Break In Service.
AMS/TMS T1 Headstuds

-----
Leaving the stock turbo for now. Future 35R, AMS FMIC, Fuel Rail, Injectors, Wideband... Tryin to keep this under $10k!
-----

So my debate is cams + dual springs. (together is about another $1k) but since its all apart I save about $300 in labor. With the stock turbo I will be losing a little. Leaning toward goin without for now. Right now I am roughly at $7500.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 08:33 AM
  #41  
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From: IL
if your thinking of cams, now is the best time to be doing it.....

would also be nice since everything else will be breaking in together at the same time as well.....

Roll with it, you know you wanna........
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 08:46 AM
  #42  
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From: springfield Ma
Originally Posted by chrisblueevo
I change my oil every 1k miles. I also have the hook up on 5 quarts of moble 10-30 for 10 bucks
wow man thats crazy, can you ship me your used oil
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 08:55 AM
  #43  
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From: SoCalevo-Ville
So what was the final Turn around Time on when you get her back?
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 08:57 AM
  #44  
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From: Indy
Excessive oil changes, (Mobil 1) has HARSH detergents and should NOT be changed as often as the conventional oils. the 3K mile oil change stuff was great for cars in the 1970's. Porsches from the factory use Mobil 1 like we do, but they recommend their first oil change at 15,000 miles!!! Harsh detergents can't be that good for any motor.

Mitsu, and "jiffy lubes" love the 3K oil change interval why???? MONEY for them. Sorry to jack the thread. Rant over. LOL.
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Old Nov 16, 2007 | 08:59 AM
  #45  
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From: In the Middle of Everywhere
Originally Posted by gregfromblur
So what was the final Turn around Time on when you get her back?
2-3 weeks depending on the break in period. There are like 5-6 cars getting, or scheduled to get broken in during this time frame apparently.

Do I really need the pro break in? I assume that means they make tweaks here and there when they notice room for improvement.
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