do I NEED a boost controller?
When AMS came down to do my very first base-flash, we just popped the pill out. It did have the spike/taper at that point though, but nothing more than normal.
I use an EBC. I find it easier to control the boost and get the characteristics you want want out of the car.
Depends on what you want--and how OCD you are about it.
I use an EBC. I find it easier to control the boost and get the characteristics you want want out of the car.
Depends on what you want--and how OCD you are about it.
uhm.... no. start reading up on the Stock BCS.
You can do as good a job of tuning out the taper as an MBC. Theres threads on this in ECUFlash forum.
I personally want the taper, and think its weird that people want to get rid of it. You can safely spike more boost and taper the boost to a safer level towards redline. A flat boost curve just gives up way too much torque and mid-range on the stock turbo.
You can do as good a job of tuning out the taper as an MBC. Theres threads on this in ECUFlash forum.
I personally want the taper, and think its weird that people want to get rid of it. You can safely spike more boost and taper the boost to a safer level towards redline. A flat boost curve just gives up way too much torque and mid-range on the stock turbo.
Last edited by EvoBroMA; Dec 14, 2007 at 08:00 AM.
My stock BCS was broken and it was a million times cheaper to get an MBC rather than replaces the solenoid... So I did NEED one, however if your stock BCS system is working just fine, I wouldn't waste the time or money on it, just get a tune that adjusts it to where you want... Unless you wanna be able to drive 91 octane at 20 psi and then go to the track and pop in 110 and crank up real easy to 24 psi with a few turns of a knob.
The best method imho is the method you described - modifiying the pill at the turbo, and keeping the pill at the solenoid to keep a smoother boost curve. Even though i have the JDM Map sensor, i don't know if i care to change over to direct boost control. I like to keep things simple.
It seems like the best way to utilize stock boost control and almost gives you electronic boos control for nothing seeing as how you just have to adjust it using ECUFlash or whatever comparable program.
Yeah and taper in the end is usually you're friend. The higher RPM's are where most accidents happen due to spike or creep.
Yeah and taper in the end is usually you're friend. The higher RPM's are where most accidents happen due to spike or creep.
Why does everyone think holding boost up top is a result of boost control?
The boost taper is a result of the engine being able to flow more air than the turbo can push through it. If you have a restriction somewhere you'll be able to hold more boost because you have less air flow. A good example of this is on an EVO8 without cams. Normally its easy to hold 22psi at redline but after you add cams the airflow increases and its much harder to do that.
On the stock turbo and stock motor you shouldn't be able to hold 25psi at redline. If you can you have flow restriction somewhere. If you look at my boost curve you will see it starts to drop off at about 6k rpm. That's not due to horrible boost control. Its a result of my engine out flowing the stock turbo. My WDC is set to 52% until 5k rpm then it climbs rapidly to 100% at 6k. By upping my low end WDC I could spike my car to 28psi and probably broaden the powerband but boost is still going to drop.
The boost taper is a result of the engine being able to flow more air than the turbo can push through it. If you have a restriction somewhere you'll be able to hold more boost because you have less air flow. A good example of this is on an EVO8 without cams. Normally its easy to hold 22psi at redline but after you add cams the airflow increases and its much harder to do that.
On the stock turbo and stock motor you shouldn't be able to hold 25psi at redline. If you can you have flow restriction somewhere. If you look at my boost curve you will see it starts to drop off at about 6k rpm. That's not due to horrible boost control. Its a result of my engine out flowing the stock turbo. My WDC is set to 52% until 5k rpm then it climbs rapidly to 100% at 6k. By upping my low end WDC I could spike my car to 28psi and probably broaden the powerband but boost is still going to drop.
Last edited by Jeff_Jeske; Dec 14, 2007 at 08:50 AM.
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