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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 04:40 AM
  #16  
s2krn's Avatar
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From: Arkansas
Originally Posted by SixOneNine
And remember 264's is stealthy with its stock like idle and will pass smog
I'm in Arkansas now and highly doubt they will smog any time soon. Too many redneck trucks that wouldn't pass; they would start a rebellion!
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:10 AM
  #17  
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From: Tucson, Arizona, USA
Another very important issue is the tune. I know from experience that it is very easy to get caught up in what I call Dynofrenzy. This is readily apparent at any dyno tune or Dyno Day event. Everyone wants to know the max HP.

However, most of us with street cars don't drive at peak HP. When I had my most recent tune with Chris at Mellon Tuning I advised him that I was more interested in added torque than in max HP.

Chris was able to increase my torque throughout the entire low range - 50 ft lb increase at 3,400 rpms. That is something I feel and use (and thoroughly enjoy) every time I drive my car. But, that subtle improvement is easily missed if one is caught up in Dynofrenzy.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:19 AM
  #18  
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From: new jersey
i got a 03, my mods are,
MBC
TBE(test-pipe)
drop in filter
forge dv
comp 272 cams (perfrect for what i needed)
turbotrix built and tuned, 360hp/375 trq
on 93 pump gas
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:21 AM
  #19  
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ok my previous setup put me at 320 whp on pump...if you want 350 add this to your mods: 272 cams, i would do a IX turbo w/ good aftermarket 02 (if you dont want to do the IX turbo, get a 10.5 hotside and good 02), mbc-pref forge or hallman, good dv-forge recommended here or even a IX, testpipe, fuel pump, and good tune. That should def put you over your goal and you will still have plenty of money to spare. You could even do an intercooler w/ full intercooler piping with the extra if you like, but not necessary making that kind of horsepower. (Sure looks better though)

Jim has a very good point on the tune...do it right

Last edited by jcdevo67; Jan 7, 2008 at 07:25 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:46 AM
  #20  
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I think it depends on if you are installing or having someone install. If you are having someone do the labor, I would suggest 272s, a MBC, a 10.5 hotside, and a retune.

If you are doing it all yourself, I would add the IX turbo, and if emissions isn't a problem, you could easily add a test pipe with an O2 fix
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 07:51 AM
  #21  
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From: Port Arthur, TX
SAVE SAVE SAVE, get enough money to buy a turbokit, and all supporting mods at once with a DAMN good tune. If you have an idea of what you want to change in the future then thats a good start. but if you buy parts here and there, in the end when you go big your going to end up selling all your old stuff anyways.



Cams and MBC is something you can keep in the future also, so those would be your best bet. Or find a exhaust you can use later on if you upgrade.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 09:35 AM
  #22  
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From: Imperial Beach, CA
Originally Posted by SixOneNine
Here are the mods in my 03:

-tbe w/ test pipe
-hks 264/264
-mbc @ 21-22psi
-9 bov
-arp headstuds
-k&n drop in
-tune

Everything else stock.
I got dyno tuned on a dynojet and it made 325whp (91 octane).



Who tuned your car? I've seen people with similar mods that get less than that. It's gotta be the tune.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 09:48 AM
  #23  
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From: Washington
just go for a 30r or 35r ;p hangul mal? haha!
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 09:49 AM
  #24  
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is it $2500 minus the cost of your buschur turboback? if no then for $2500 i would get the following. i am jus rounding off numbers of what parts would cost you with install and i overpriced you can prolly shop around and get better deals.

$800 - cams your choice w/ labor
Meth Kit - $500 install yourself very easy.
$300 - BOV
$400- Custom Flash
$100 arp head studs - some ppl claim you can even go without them, but i just had them done while i had my cams installed.


I had this plus an AMS FMIC and TBE with HKS 272s and on a dyno with custom flash my did 384whp and 390 tq @ 28 psi on stock turbo. Oh I also has ebay o2 housing. your total with prices i overpriced a bit would be $2100 which still leaves with some money for the factory clutch you will prolly have to replace if you do all this. To give you an idea of how much power the meth kid added before the kit i dynoed at 320 whp and 321tq. so a diff in 64whp and almost 70 tq. very nice increase for $500. i run a buschur/smc meth kit and i love it.

Last edited by BigLEVO; Jan 7, 2008 at 09:53 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 10:03 AM
  #25  
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According to Steve Dinan you should always upgrade suspension/brakes handling stuff first then upgrade power.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 10:12 AM
  #26  
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From: IL
maybe true in some cars but the evo suspension is pretty stout. i did not do much suspension until i was in the 450-500 whp category.... but dam was it nice when I had it.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 10:16 AM
  #27  
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From: Danbury, CT
buy a cruise for you and your evo

bahamas maybe??
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 10:20 AM
  #28  
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From: Albany, NY
EXEDY TWIN....just get the Standard duty....if your goals arent to high.
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 10:40 AM
  #29  
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From: in front of your car
my '03 mods are:

Perrin 3" DP
Perrin 3" testpipe
Espelir 3" catback
10.5cm hotside from '05 EVO
Hallman MBC
K&N drop-in filter
self modded wastegate
racegas tune on 104octane unleaded

324WHP/368TQ on an AWD Mustang Dyno (366whp/415tq on a Dynojet)
Mustang numbers more realistic IMO.

if u wanna keep the pumpgas setup i would do a couple things:

1) Works 269 cams- more midrange power w/out needing a full head build (valve springs/retainers required but cam gears are not). approx 25whp
2) O2 housing- Works makes a nice piece but there is a cheaper one on Ebay. 5-10whp
3) Exhaust manifold- get 1 w/short runners for midrange grunt, or long runners for topend power. get the manifold & O2 housing ceramic or Swain coated. 10-20whp
4) Works Aperture 1 throttle body- is port matched to the intake manifold 10whp
5) Lower I/C pipe- new larger pipe provide quicker spool + approx 10whp gain
6) samco I/C elbow kit- rest of stock piping is fine but put these on w/t-bolts so they don't come loose.
7) Fuel pump- if u don't have an upgraded one, this is a MUST!!!!!! Walbro 255LPH should do fine.
8) boost control- this is debatable but a good tuner can control boost thru the ECU. Hallman MBC's are rock solid reliable though.
9) upgrade stock turbo- u can do a 20G wheel conversion on ur stock turbo, or buy an EVO IX turbo & do a 20G conversion on that one. est. 30-50whp increase.
10) BRAKES- last but most important!!!!! do some S.S. lines, upgraded pads, higher temp fluid, & maybe some new rotors. unless racing regularly u don't need slotted rotors. i would avoid drilled unless they are super high quality.

Grand Total from above: possible 125whp+ gain from the above parts
Cost: about $2000 if u shop around + do most the work yourself. then take the $500 leftover & get the car retuned...

good luck
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Old Jan 7, 2008 | 10:43 AM
  #30  
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From: in front of your car
once u get all the extra new found power, i would start saving for a clutch. based on ur setup i would say find a clutch that would be no more than $2k INCLUDING installation. something just a lil stronger than stock but not an aggressive race clutch. I run a Tilton twin cerametallic but i have future plans on upgrading turbo/motor...
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