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Socket stuck on spark plug and can't back out

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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 12:51 PM
  #16  
glgz's Avatar
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From: Ohio
Here is what I did for mine. Break them loose with socket. Then I used one of those claw type grabber tools and spun the spak plug out. I also used the same claw tool to put the new plugs back and it worked great. Another method to use in a bind is a piece of hose you can put over the end of the spark plug.

For you orignal problem try tighting the plug up again by hand and tapping in the opening of the socket to knock it off.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 12:53 PM
  #17  
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Get a pair of long needle nose pliers.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 01:00 PM
  #18  
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No spark plug socket, and not to mention actually torquing to spec. Sure its just a spark plug, but its also an AL head on a $30k car
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 01:15 PM
  #19  
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An easy way to prevent this from happening again would be to ducktape the socket to the extension whenever changing plugs.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 01:20 PM
  #20  
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Get a magnet on an antenna.. one of those extendo magnets.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 01:31 PM
  #21  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barneyb
I suggest buying a real spark plug socket.

I can't believe that people don't use spark plug sockets for changing their spark plugs.




i know i have one too they are so easy to use

Last edited by gixxerman11; Jan 23, 2008 at 01:32 PM. Reason: haha
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 01:57 PM
  #22  
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From: wexford,pa
help I've fallen and cant get up. LOL sorry its funny but not.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 03:24 PM
  #23  
edmundo's Avatar
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Or get a locking extension
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 03:38 PM
  #24  
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From: Longview tx
Originally Posted by fostytou
No spark plug socket, and not to mention actually torquing to spec. Sure its just a spark plug, but its also an AL head on a $30k car
aluminum head huh. You got basically 2 dsm's and Aluminum head

Last edited by freddiet; Jan 23, 2008 at 03:39 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 03:42 PM
  #25  
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if you are replacing your plugs and don't care about the old ones gently tap the socket till it comes loose. Then retry making sure that the same thing doesn't happen again.

If you are not replacing your plugs, be extra careful when tapping the socket as not to damage the ceramic.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 03:50 PM
  #26  
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From: Virginia
Some tips:

When replacing plugs, don't use the spark plug socket to guide them in. Instead, use a foot long section of fuel line hose (vacuum hose works well too, as long as it's the right diameter) that is "plugged" on to the end of the spark plug. Drop the spark plug down in the well once the fuel line hose is connected to the nipple on the top of the spark plug and thread it in place by turning the fuel line. This will prevent cross-threading the spark plugs since the head is aluminum and doesn't take well to high torque, especially at the wrong angles. Once the spark plug is threaded in a good bit and becomes snug in the well, pull on the rubber hose to remove it and then use the spark plug socket to finish off the job, making sure to torque down the plugs to specs.

USE ANTI-SEIZE!

USE A SPARK PLUG SOCKET!
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 04:46 PM
  #27  
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+1 on the anti-seize. It sucks having to helicoil the threads back into a head.
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Old Jan 24, 2008 | 08:25 PM
  #28  
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From: new york
get a good extension and a little bit of oil and it will come right out happened to my frend with his 2g gsx and it worked.
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 03:41 AM
  #29  
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There are sparkplug socket/flexible extension assemblies available from $nap-on where the socket is permanently joined to the extension via a flexible ball joint.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 08:12 PM
  #30  
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From: MA
What are the actual torque specs im really suprised no one has posted these.. I actually changed mine today without the specs but would like to go back tomorrow and do them right..
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