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Max HP for stock

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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 01:18 PM
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Max HP for stock

The main use of my car is spirited daily driving. I do an occasional drag run (ie 2-3 times per year). What I would like to know prior to jumping into bigger turbos is at what HP levels will some of my stock components greatly augment their potential for failure, such as the ACD, Tranny, Engine internals. For example on my other vehicle for drag applications the stock engine internals are good to 500whp, but anything more greatly increases the potential of throwing a rod and the stock tranny is pretty deacent at this level, but would survive longer under stock power levels. Can anyone give me some ballparks for the ACD, tranny and internals without a big explaination that is all depends on how you drive the car.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by EgoBstr
The main use of my car is spirited daily driving. I do an occasional drag run (ie 2-3 times per year). What I would like to know prior to jumping into bigger turbos is at what HP levels will some of my stock components greatly augment their potential for failure, such as the ACD, Tranny, Engine internals. For example on my other vehicle for drag applications the stock engine internals are good to 500whp, but anything more greatly increases the potential of throwing a rod and the stock tranny is pretty deacent at this level, but would survive longer under stock power levels. Can anyone give me some ballparks for the ACD, tranny and internals without a big explaination that is all depends on how you drive the car.

Thanks!
Well it DOES depend on how you drive the car... Shock loads kill the drivetrain and even STOCK horsepower levels under the right conditions... IE 7800 rpm dropping the clutch muplitple times will smoke any drive train.

Detonation kills the motor's if you have a bad tune you can kill a motor at 250hp.

Put all those things aside and look at what people have done on stock components then your looking at 500whp on stock internals. Stock clutch will murder itself in heavy loads seemingly beyond the 450whp mark. Drivetrain with stock components (RS front diff) has seen even 9 second runs...

Now... none of that is guaranteed to last.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 01:51 PM
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500 to 550 is good on stock parts
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by inneedof
500 to 550 is good on stock parts
I agree, but if you drive the hell out of your car and want everyday reliability, stick with say ~400 WHP. That's still fast!
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 02:46 PM
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On a side note clutch holds torque not whp.

I would say 450/450 is a fun good number because you can get there on a green and race gas/e85/meth with full bolt ons and that would be a fun car to drive.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 02:46 PM
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It looks like the 400-450 range is a pretty safe bet to stick around before I am going to start to break things. So I guess going with an aftermarket turbo setup isnt for me. I am at 340 right now, without cams or a fmic. If I do put in a set of cams and a fmic, what is the cheapest way without using nitrous or meth to pick up 50 ponies from where I am at. Would a green turbo do that (I dont want to overshoot he mark)? But then I am getting into needing all the associated supporting mods (injectors, headstuds, etc..) jacking the price up.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 02:54 PM
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ill take 400 and then ill be good.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by soontobe
ill take 400 and then ill be good.
+1 going north of 400 I would be upgrading other mechanical parts to at least try handling the additional power.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 06:55 PM
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EgoBstr- What mods do you currently have? Either way e85 would get you there quick if you do want to stay on pump gas your going to need at least a green + cams, most all other bolt-ons.
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Old Mar 10, 2008 | 08:04 PM
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From: springfield Ma
Originally Posted by EgoBstr
It looks like the 400-450 range is a pretty safe bet to stick around before I am going to start to break things. So I guess going with an aftermarket turbo setup isnt for me. I am at 340 right now, without cams or a fmic. If I do put in a set of cams and a fmic, what is the cheapest way without using nitrous or meth to pick up 50 ponies from where I am at. Would a green turbo do that (I dont want to overshoot he mark)? But then I am getting into needing all the associated supporting mods (injectors, headstuds, etc..) jacking the price up.
what are your current mods? you dont have headstuds? You sound like you dont plan on getting them, in my opinoin they ar cheap insurance. I dont have them either but if and when i get cams i plan on it.
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 03:08 PM
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I have injen intake, UICP, LICP
Megan manifold, o2, dp, resonated TP
Greddy ti catback
MBC at 21 psi
Walbro
Brotherz racing tune
Stock mivec cams, stock intercooler
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