so over the past few days ive been working on my car with my dad istalling aftermarket parts to my evo as a father son project because we havent hung out in about 2 years because ive been in the army. all the wrenchwork is finished as of today, the parts we installed are as follows:

ACR Super induction box
samco turbo induction pipe
MR BOV
Buschur UICP
AMS LICP
GT-Spec exhaust manifold
Buschur O2 housing
Buschur Turbo back exhaust
PPI Small battery kit


alright so you know how everyone gets anxious when they complete their work, and they wonder if the car is going to start? well i got nervous too. the car turned over fine, and idled smoothly. so we decided that we should go for a test drive to make sure that al the parts were working in conjunction with each other. so the test drive was perfect, not a single hitch. i didnt push the car at all though because it was a military base, and they are **** about gassing it. so after the test drive we brought the car back to the shop and noticed that the service engine light was on. at this point i was pissed thinking that it was O2 sensot related, and who knows it very well could be. but i called one of the other local evo guys down here in KW, his name is Dave (idk what his profile name on here is) anyways he said that he did similar mods, and drove his car all the way to orlando to get tuned by Jestr (which is exactly what im planning on doing) all the way up there with a service engine light on. so with that reassurance that the car could make it that far without a tune i set off for home. on the way home (10 miles away) the battery light came on, as well as the brake light. now this scarred me, so i pulled over on to the shoulder and sent my pops off to get the jumper cables at our buddy Joes shop. so while hes gone, im freaking out trying to figure out what the hell went wrong. at this point the car wont start, and is clicking like a dead battery would. so not but 5 minutes into waiting, another Evo owner down here, his name is Ramises, just happens to drive by, and sees me in distress. so he pulls over and checks out my mods, and compliments the work and the ride, so we talk, mean while my pops returned with the jumper cables. as we are inspecting the car, Ramises notices that the MAF sensor isnt even plugged in (the car is running at this point) and i say to myself "yep that will do it" so i plug the sensor in, not even thinking to shut the car off first and the damn engine starts immediately running smoother. so im relieved. we get in our respective cars and head down to Joes shop. now, on the way there, i noticed that none of my gauges were working! and once i got down to the island of Key West (3 mile drive from where i pulled over) the car starts running like pure ****! idling issues like a ****! it was just running terrible! anyways, so we shut the car off at joes shop, and he said that hes going to look at it in the morning to check to see if any codes were thrown. im just hoping that plugging the MAF back in while the car was running would screw up the ECU. so when i went to put the windows in the car up, i put the key in the ignition, and turn it to the half way point to put the windows up, and the windows are just creeping up, like the car is out of battery, and i tried to start it just to humor myself, and wouldnt you know it, the car didnt even have enough power to make that clicking noise.

anyone have any idea (after having described exactly what happened) what the hell i might have done wrong? or how i could get the car up and running again? i would really appreciate input.

 

which brand battery did you end up getting?

pretty weird tho..cuz yur mods are pretty normal..but the induction box with the samco pipe could be the main problem.......dunno tho?

You need a MBC thats for sure.

 

PPI sent me the Odyssey battery, i checked to see if the cold crank amps were sufficient

 

also i have an MBC ready for install, i just wanted to make sure that all of these parts worked before cranking up the boost, and i wanted to install it right before i got a tune you know?

 

well...sounds like a power issue....i would say put your stock batt back in but im sure you have the short route UICP....check out the battery i know people up in my area sometimes have trouble with them in COLD weather but...and your in southern florida i dont see that being a problem...could possibly be a defective battery but you said to see if the cold crank amps were sufficent....or your connections to the battery arent good enough or tight...considering your MAF sensor wasnt plugged in... no offense...just check over your connections... also check to see if a clamp slipped and you have a large boost leak etc..

 

yea, well can someone please explain to me why my spedo and tach arent working?

 

no one has a theory as to why my gauges stoped working? no one?

 

Fuse? Power lines? Short?

 

you know how there in a bracket holding the battery line away from heat sources? well it wasnt giving me enough play, so i removed it, not im kinda scarred that that bracket was a ground?

 

Are you sure that your alternator is completely hooked up? Usually when the battery light comes on while driving that means insuffucient voltage-which while driving comes from the alternator. Check fuses for your gauges. I hope you didnt pop your ecu too. Plugging a sensor in with the key in the ON position-not good, but the engine did start to run smoother so it doesnt sound like it was damaged. Hope this helps.

 

I'm not sure what bracket you're talking about but if it was the one that hooks to the area just behind the stock battery location to the shock tower, then yes that is a ground and the Evo needs every ground it can get plus some! As stated earlier check all your connections and grounds also, since it may have been run without a ground connected you need to check your wiring harness for any damage or evidence of over heating or melting. Something similar happened to a buddy of mine and his harness burned itself up. I hope this helps.

Josh

 

well, i took your advice this morning, and looked at the positive battery terminal. if you look under the stock insulation, on the positive connector, there are what appear to be 2 fuses built right in. one of those fuses popped. ive got some solder completing the circuit right now, but thats kinda ghetto, so i was wondering, does anyone know what i should ask for if i call mitsubishi up to order a new one?

also i have seen people use different positive terminal conections, im not sure where they are getting them, or what the pros/cons to using them are, anyone have any info on these?

 

Hey Davethewave, Did you find out anythng on those fuses, cause im having the battery problem too.