My feeling is, you can keep your 5hp and I'll just break my engine in like the majority of normal people who never have problems instead of doing some goofy "run it hard right away" method that can only offer increased chance of screwing something up.

 

"heavy load, change the oil right away to non synthetic (change the oil at 20 miles to get rid of all the metal suspended in it) petro based stuff"

if you do this....from personal experience....expect your turbo to wear quicker, and you will void your warranty..

and.....here comes the the flamers ready to yell at me....i acn hear it now...

 

just a thought...why would mitsubishi recommend a break-in period or method that would allow for less than optimum performance or wear factor ?...as they are the ones paying for warranty repairs, wouldn't they want or know which method is best/most efficient ?...i am not an engine builder, grant you, but it just seems to make sense to me...

 

mprtklr: seems how you only use none synthetic for the short "break in" time (about 600 miles)... your statement is un true



1krautburner: Are you aware that once your engine is completed in the factory it is started, warmed up, then reved to red line (fuel cut) cooled down then turned off

why would the FACTORY do this at 0 miles, then when you get it with 5 miles or so on it they say not to go above 5000 rpms...??

the metal manufacturing proccesses are so advanced now that you dont have to use this break in proccess (wich orginates from like ww2 era, when you broke it in soft to "polish" the internals) the interals come practicaly polished from the factory

seating the rings properly not only gives MORE power, but makes the engine last longer too... but do it how ever you want

btw, as far as the warentee goes, dont tell , and they wont know :P

EDIT: "The key to exceptional engine reliability is to first achieve an exceptional ring seal" - remeber that and you'll do well
it's also the key to a small power increase

 

that was actually my question...why would they recommend something that wasn't optimal for engine life or performance ?...it seems that if what you say is correct, then mitsu is doing themselves a mis-service by recommending the opposite...why would they, as a manufacturer, do that ?...i don't know myself which method is correct, i was merely asking the question...

 

Proof please?

 

toured a factory while i was TDY in japan (military stuff)

where do you think those 5 miles on the clock come from? they run it to redline through every gear on a dyno then roll it out of the factory (its a shake down, looking for oil leaks exahst ect ect...)

(watched em do it to a eclipse )

 

Amen god damn it

I did the factory recommended method...but I will change my oil once I get to 1000 (3~4 weeks old )

 

seating your rings not only gives you more HP, BUT ALSO LENTHENS THE LIFE OF YOUR ENGINE!!!!

thats why this break in method is so revolutionary,, the better your rings are sealed the less oil (if any) you'll burn, your cylenders wont go "oval" on you from super hot gasses escaping the combustion chamber past the ring seals...


Just be cause you've been doing something for a long time, doesnt mean its right

 

From some things I have read the NSX used to get topped out before they shipped it. Now they stopped doing that because of problems and also the NSX comes with special oil in it to break in the motor.

 

5 miles? I've seen cars with less than 3 miles on the odometer at time of delivery (unless you're specifying the Evo exclusively, but we're talking general car break-in procedures here).


Except that there's never been problems doing it the right way, so why do it another way?

 

yes i was refering specificaly to the evo in that case, but they all go through something similar (and the NSX still does too)


WAIT, not right away?! i thought we where talking about engine relyability?!!??!

a good ring seal is extending the LIFE of your car, its not something you'll see right away

the only thing you see right away with the hard break in is an HP increase (that stays) and after about 7000 miles when you tear down the engine you'll notice that the pistons that where broke in the hard way look damn near perfect, where as the factory way will be stained with carbon from the oil that burns up when the hot gasses leak out of the combustion chamber

I know its very hard to think out side of your comfort zone but dont let your self be blinded by that instant feeling that "oh its gotta be wrong" when you haven't even read the material i provided

I've done this on 2 cars and 1 motor cycle, and ive torn down the bike after 10k miles.. the pistons and cyl's looked BRAND NEW! with only some slight carbon build up on the top (where it should be)

after i saw that for my self i was hooked..