Ebay LICP
Ebay LICP
Anyone tried one? $80 and looks like good product.
Here's a link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Inter...=p4506.c0.m245
Thx for the opinions
Here's a link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Inter...=p4506.c0.m245
Thx for the opinions
I'd be asking you why.
Why would you change your stok for that one?
is it for a shiny pipe? you want an extra join?
Sure that pipe is a shorter route to you I/C but is it worth the $80?
if its for gains, i really doubt you'll gain anything as its pretty much the same as stock - that tappered part cuts out any gain you "could've" gained had it been 2.5' all the way...
Why would you change your stok for that one?
is it for a shiny pipe? you want an extra join?
Sure that pipe is a shorter route to you I/C but is it worth the $80?
if its for gains, i really doubt you'll gain anything as its pretty much the same as stock - that tappered part cuts out any gain you "could've" gained had it been 2.5' all the way...
Looks like an AMS copy. There is debate about the tapered design over the ones that use a straight 2.5". I had the old version AMS (came with the car), from what I was told. It looks just like the one posted above. I noticed a slight improvement when I switched for an ETS stainless one.
That said, there is one reason I recommend the straight 2.5" over a tapered design. Tapered design use an extra joint in the middle which has a coupler that can rub on a bracket that is really close to that coupler.. When the licp doesnt have the brackets to support it, it can hit and rub that piece. Over time, that coupler can slowly get torn. Unfortunately for the licp to make a more efficient route, it gets routed really close to that tab, which I forgot now what the bracket goes to. iirc, its the tow hook?.
With the straight 2.5" style LICP you dont have that rubber joint to worry about in case the pipe starts to rub up against that piece under heavy boost conditions. Just someting else to consider.
That said, there is one reason I recommend the straight 2.5" over a tapered design. Tapered design use an extra joint in the middle which has a coupler that can rub on a bracket that is really close to that coupler.. When the licp doesnt have the brackets to support it, it can hit and rub that piece. Over time, that coupler can slowly get torn. Unfortunately for the licp to make a more efficient route, it gets routed really close to that tab, which I forgot now what the bracket goes to. iirc, its the tow hook?.
With the straight 2.5" style LICP you dont have that rubber joint to worry about in case the pipe starts to rub up against that piece under heavy boost conditions. Just someting else to consider.




