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change it yourself or shops

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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 09:19 AM
  #46  
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fre
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From: Idaho
Originally Posted by still*boostn
its not bad at all dude, unless youve have an aftermarket clutch alrdy and someone put the transfer case bolts back in with locktight(what happend in my case), had to take off the intake mani to get to the bolts with enough leverage. i did a tranny swap last month(same process)
I actually know why they used locktight. Those transfer case bolts have a tendency to strip even if putting factory spec torque on them (50ftlb) because of the aluminum threading. They probably didn't want to have to tighten them as much and just used locktight to ensure they stayed in place with less torque.

I stripped two of the bottom transfer case bolts just trying to apply factory torque. Good thing that location allowed for a bolt and a nut on the other side to be used.

Originally Posted by tsidrift1
I can have my dsm tranny out and in in about 3 hrs.


I am getting ready to buy an 06 evo9. It currently has a ATP twin disc on it. I have heard the great things about the twin discs, but I dont know if I can take the sound for too long. If I decide to get rid of it, I am gonna try the clutch job myself.

I have pulled my 1g motor many times as well as other cars. I would think I would be intelligent enough to change the clutch out on an evo?
I have no doubt you have the skill to do it, but keep in mind the evo tranny is MUCH harder to get out then the DSM. I have a buddy that has owned both and he said his DSM trannys were way easier. He does mechanics for a living too.

Last edited by fre; Jan 7, 2010 at 09:23 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 10:00 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by JohnDoe1984
+1 ^^^

I've met quite a few mechanics. 95% of them I would not trust to put a clutch in my evo.

It's a hard job. Don't even attempt it unless you consider yourself a competent mechanic in your own right. You're going to need a nice set of tools. That said it is doable. Having done it myself one thing that comes to mind is am I going to trust a guy that works by the hour to take the transmission back out again if he banged up the TOB retaining clip? He has to get done and on to the next job. If it works he'd rather not take that tranny back out. Me personally I want that clip to be perfect. It's going to be depended on at every shift. Nobody is going to take the time and care that you will with your car. Later when you drive off from the shop and 1,000 miles later your TOB pops out do you think the mechanic is going to fess up to it?
I totally agree. Too many of them are rushing just to get the job done. I am now a competent mechanic, because over the years I had to learn to fix my own cars. I learned if I want it done rightm I have to do it myself. It was driving me up the wall to pay someone to fix my car and have to redo their work. I have help out other people with their cars problems, 3/4 of the work I have done is fixing other mechanics mistakes.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 10:28 AM
  #48  
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Well, I'll let you know in a couple of days when I pull my car in the garage. I have a full size Snap-On box filled with tools, air compressor, jacks, jack stands, engine hoist, and lots of other stuff. I was a full time mechanic for about six years so I have all my stuff still. Anyhow, I'm just going to take my time. I have an Exedy twin disc/avid motor mounts/shep racing tranny and transfer case going in. So it's going to take some time. I'll be sure to take lots of pics and possibly write a DIY up.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 11:47 AM
  #49  
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I tried doing my own clutch job when I first got my Evo. I read the write-ups on it and felt like I could do it considering I had a plethora of tools and "some" mechanical competance. It was a biotch to say the least. I struggled a lot and was wanted to set my vehicle on fire at times. I won't ever do it again no matter how much time or money I have (or lackthereof).

BUT I have since then made friends with a guy who owns a tranny shop and has a 700hp evo he mods himself, has pulled and installed countless Evo motors and he will hook me up with great labor prices and a job done right the first time. I cant complain as he makes my modding addiction affordable.....

Last edited by Lilredbox; Jan 7, 2010 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 02:45 PM
  #50  
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if you have the money give it to a shop.. especially if you have the money..
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
$1400 for 60k is very high if it just consisted in timing belt job (all pulleys / tensioner + waterpump) and fluids... timing belt stuff only cost around $414 and fluids like $100


clutch jobs for evo's ussually cost around $650 for a evo 8.
dude, where are you getting your parts? mitsubishiparts.net had all the original parts i was looking for and they were the cheapest. gold package is $700 by itself. i don't do that aftermarket fluid crap in my trans and transfercase so diaqueen is sold only by the gallon. $150 for the trans and transfercase. add tax and shipping, you have about $1000 bucks. sadly, the 60k is more than just the t-belt pulleys/waterpump. and it would still cost me time to do it. so, $1400 is expensive but was a deal in my eyes. and a quote from works on an installed stage 1 clutch and lightened flywheel, parts and labor was about $2000. that's about normal for an installed clutch at a good shop. i'm glad your parts are cheap though.

Last edited by heavens turbo; Jan 7, 2010 at 10:08 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 08:42 AM
  #52  
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The more complicated the job like a clutch change the less I trust a shop to do it correctly. I would do it myself. When it comes time to do the timing belt I will pull the motor to make the timing belt and clutch change much easier.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 10:19 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by njboy
I would do it myself. When it comes time to do the timing belt I will pull the motor to make the timing belt and clutch change much easier.
I don't own an Evo, but is really that difficult to do the timing belt and clutch that it would easier to pull the motor? I am used to RWD cars, but I usually have to drop the transmission anyways to get the the input shaft into clutch, so unless you can get the motor out w/o dropping the tranny, that would be almost a wash.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 10:48 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by JohnDoe1984
I just said a "nice" set of tools. You do need a good variety. A bunch of extensions help, a tranny jack, an engine hoist. A full torque wrench set, slide hammer, fairly large sockets in some areas bigger than would come with most socket sets, a few pry bars, air tools are almost a must as well. It's not like you can buy a socket set in a case from sears and have everything you need.

Those items just aren't in everyone's garage. That's all. I'm trying to describe it to someone who will be doing it for the first time like me. There's no reason to even attempt to get the tranny out in 2hrs doing it yourself the first time. Take your time. I'm glad it gets so much quicker with each time. I'm sure I could go twice as fast on the next clutch.
ya theres a bunch of little things i didn't mention, but its nothing out of the ordinary. you don't need air tools..... infact the only thing you'd use air tools on with the entire process is breaking the axle nut loose... the only special tool you need is the yellow dent puller that threads into the input shaft to yank it out... the part # is on the transmission how to on the forum (for the OP)
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 10:54 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by heavens turbo
dude, where are you getting your parts? mitsubishiparts.net had all the original parts i was looking for and they were the cheapest. gold package is $700 by itself. i don't do that aftermarket fluid crap in my trans and transfercase so diaqueen is sold only by the gallon. $150 for the trans and transfercase. add tax and shipping, you have about $1000 bucks. sadly, the 60k is more than just the t-belt pulleys/waterpump. and it would still cost me time to do it. so, $1400 is expensive but was a deal in my eyes. and a quote from works on an installed stage 1 clutch and lightened flywheel, parts and labor was about $2000. that's about normal for an installed clutch at a good shop. i'm glad your parts are cheap though.
JNZ tuning and Russell from the site you mentioned. But I get good discounts. you only use diaqueen for the transfercase + rear... and the aftermarket fluid is not crap. Using OEM trans fluid is dumb when they have stuff out like AMSOIL that will make it shift like butter and last longer.

What all did your 60k consist of?
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 11:00 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by dgoodhue
I don't own an Evo, but is really that difficult to do the timing belt and clutch that it would easier to pull the motor? I am used to RWD cars, but I usually have to drop the transmission anyways to get the the input shaft into clutch, so unless you can get the motor out w/o dropping the tranny, that would be almost a wash.
the timing belts easy to do with motor in, u just remove the passenger side front mount and jack it up via oil pan to get your clearance... of course its easier with motor out but not needed. the transmissions a complete ***** to do on a evo because its so heavy and you have so much **** in the way (the rear trans mount bracket) and you have to angle it in or it wont ever line up... you could pull a honda motor 6 times before someone can have a clutch job done in a evo. and the transfercase is an even bigger ***** to get out.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by njboy
The more complicated the job like a clutch change the less I trust a shop to do it correctly. I would do it myself. When it comes time to do the timing belt I will pull the motor to make the timing belt and clutch change much easier.
id say the only important thing doing a clutch is making sure they torque the flywheel bolts to spec and do it in the proper pattern and use some loctite also. If cars were not dirty i would love to work on them all day long, but i cant deal with the constant **** that comes off them.


EDIT: and make sure everythings torqued to spec and that the lower arm ball joints are pushed all the way up where they lock in place for the bolt to go through.

Last edited by tscompusa2; Jan 8, 2010 at 11:07 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 11:16 AM
  #58  
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One thing is that some shop won't warranty what they do if the clutch is not from them. They might say that they will but when things happen, they'll probably blame you for a faulty clutch because it was not one of theirs. I guess a lot of guys have answer your question already so hope you'll make up your mind on one of the other. GL
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 11:20 AM
  #59  
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i had mitsubishi change my clutch...best decision ever. haha...i dont think i would want to mess with a clutch install...everything else ill tackle...
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Old Jan 8, 2010 | 02:43 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by tscompusa
JNZ tuning and Russell from the site you mentioned. But I get good discounts. you only use diaqueen for the transfercase + rear... and the aftermarket fluid is not crap. Using OEM trans fluid is dumb when they have stuff out like AMSOIL that will make it shift like butter and last longer.

What all did your 60k consist of?
t-belt/b-belt, pulleys, waterpump, drivetrain fluids, coolant/hoses, plugs, wires, serpbelt,(which was really bad by the way), and of course, you get charged for things like the washers and stuff like that. and yeah, as i said, being a mechanic for a living, it was not a question of ability to do the work, but other factors like time, my daily driver being down for a period of time, and price of parts vs. price of having a trustworthy shop just do it. i would have done it if the cost of parts were better. and when i say crap, i don't mean that aftermarket is crap, i just say crap alot. but i haven't had any issues with diaqueen, so i just use that. like i said, if you have the time and means to diy, go for it. i just weighed a few options relative to me.
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