You don't just replace the tranny/diffs etc because you don't need to remove them to do the belt. When you actually go to replace your belt, the pump and tensioners are all RIGHT there, so it becomes cheap insurance to replace it.

 

I agree like I said do it all do it right. Cheap insurance. WP failures aren't fun. Never seen one sieze in an EVO but in other cars I've seen a seized pump wreak havoc.

No a chance in willing gonna take. I order it all and do it right

 

What else is a good idea to change at this point? I'm willing to change anything, I want to have fresh parts to keep my evo running strong. I want it to be ready for my turbo upgrade later this year and don't want any worn down oem parts. I've been considering motor mounts and fresh gaskets to add to my list, anything else I might be missing?
Here is what I have on my list thus far:

-Water pump
-Balance belt
-Balance belt tensioner
-Timing belt
-Timing belt tensioner
-Timing belt tensioner pulley
-Timing belt idler pulley
-Spark plugs
-Wires
-Boot
-Thermostat
-Coolant flush
-Samco radiator hoses
-1.3 bar cap

 

If you were operating a big time race car then I suggest you would be replacing some of the parts you mention just to be safe because, here, it is more important to you that the vehicle keep operating.

In the case of water pumps, the main reason for replacement at belt time is just to avoid having to do a premature belt job to change out the pump.

Water pumps run a ceramic seal which consists of two ceramic washers rubbing together as the shaft turns. Ceramic is used because it is very hard and wears very slowly. However, get a particle in the seal that is harder than the ceramic and it can be toast very quickly.

The other part of the equation is the bearing. The bearing is outside of the seal. Bearings have a certain lifetime but no two seem to be the same. We had two electric motors at work that ran all of the time. One went 35 years and then failed. The other is still running as far as I know. The replacement motor for the one that failed lasted 6 months.

I suggest forecasting how long a water pump will last is impossible. However, I also suggest, that if you tested a thousand new water pumps and a thousand used pumps, the new pumps would out last the used ones on average.

 

The numbers seem about right, especially for a dealer. Perhaps you can find a specialized shop for Mitsubishis which may be a couple hundred dollars cheaper.

 

Coolant hoses

 

Do not get samco hoses for a street car. Samco uses silicone which is porous and actually loses coolant over time. For a race engine where water is checked frequently, this is fine. Otherwise, stick to a rubber hose.

 

^^thanks bro

 

Thanks for the info. I guess what im factoring in is there is a chance you could get a defected new pump, have a leak from an improper install, having to fork out more money and time to get it right and so on when the pump you have could have easily lasted the life of the motor. I guess its just a gamble you have to decide if you want to take.

 

Agree. However, once the new pump is in and has survived its initial use, it is probably going to continue to be okay into the near future. In that case I'd rather be a thousand miles from home with a new pump than a used one. On the other hand, the water pump on your car could be like the electric motor I mentioned, one ready to run for 35 years. If only we could see the future.

 

ehhh i just had my belts done. The tensioner was brandnew replaced last year (previous owner) and the waterpump wasnt showing signs of failing and still looked good so i didnt have them change it and thats alot of money at the dealership for cheap insurance to drop. ill order it from mitsubishiparts.net get it swaped out next but at the time im not about to drop 1300 bucks and dont have cash to throw away at the stealership.