its the standard metal type bov and the cars running stock boost, im going to try all of the above now and see how i get on

 

I woulding recommend this method as you could risk frying the ecu. Always disconnect the battery before removing the plugs on the ecu.

 

so i check the plugs today and they look good and with a nice gap. put the standard airbox back on too, too it for a little test drive up the road... it doesn't seem that slugish anymore at part throttle but when i give it full throttle the boost spikes to around 1.8 bar with my boost guage flashing and beeping at me, so im guess its a over boost problem due to in increased flow of the exhaust? i did the boost leak test and my throttle body shaft seal is leaking also i need to get that sorted, untill then i cant really look for any other leaks

i'll put the standard exhaust back on tomorrow and this should hopefully fix the problem right? am i correct in thinking a jdm 8 mr should boost around 1.6 bar as standard?

 

Ok, I go to a bar, can't read it though, and convert it in my head. If you have a cone, or newly oiled K&N airfilter, some of the oil could have contaminated your tungsten Wire. Get some MAF ONLY cleaner (NOT brake cleaner) to clean it. Anytime you add or subtract a mod on your car, always do an ECU reset (Remove negative terminal for 10 minutes, then reconnect, and start the car (DO NOT TOUCH ACCELERATOR) and let it idle for 10-15 minutes. This will let the ECU re-learn all the new parameters.

"The plugs looked ok?" so did the O rings on the space shuttle Challenger before launch. You have to get a gap tool, and tell us what the gap is. The wider the plug gap, the easier for spark blow out, and stumble while in boost. If you have a MBC, what is it set too?? Just some ideas.

 

yea i reset the ecu etc, the gaps are gapped to 0.55mm as recommended by the uk evo forums, what do you mean by MBC?

i should add it pretty cold here at the moment, like -0c

 

MBC = manual boost controler. It lets you raise or lower the boost. Do you have one and what boost where you running before? It could be cause of the cold air.

 

no boost controler, the car was running 1.6 bar peak before fitting the catback

 

boostlick!!! u have to check it

 

It's more often spark blow out, then fuel cut. I would just start with your most recent mod, and put the previous part back on, till you see what the problem was. I don't see what a cat back exhaust would cause so much trouble.

whats "Boostlick?" is that like turn signal fluid? LOL. I've never heard of that....

 

Hilarious. I think its headlight fluid but what do i know.

 

too much boost at 1.8 bar is not stock something is wrong make sure all your hoses from the boost solenoid are hooked up and didnt come off

 

so today i put the standard catback exhaust back on as well as the standard airbox and the car now runs 1.5 bar and all feels normal as it was... slow lol, time to start saving for that remap i think

thanks for the help guys

 

Explain the reasoning behind this please.

Either way you are removing power to the ECU. It is not much different than unplugging a computer that is turned off IMO. It loses power just as fast and gets power to it just as fast either way you remove the power going to it.

Of course you are not doing this while the car is running only while it is turned off.

Raistlin

 

Any chance you just got used to the way the car felt? I have to admit after ever setup ive ever had whether it be 350whp, 400whp and now 452whp....i always get "used" to how the car feels and it loses the "whoa" factor.

 

Your spark plug gap is wrong, it should be about .026 inches which is .066 mm