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mass airflow sensor

Old Apr 1, 2010 | 07:28 AM
  #1  
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From: fairfield, pa
mass airflow sensor

who on here is pretty knowledgeable on mass airflow sensors?
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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do you plan on elaborating?

it would help to ask your question
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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Meh, they are overrated!
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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sorry haha. i was in a bit of a hurry this morning.... i just got my car back from the shop today. it will not idle right when starting the car up from a cold start. it tries to idle but it wants to shut off. after the car runs for a little bit it starts to run better. im thinking it might be my MAF but im not sure.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:17 AM
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A cheap way to start, is use some CRC MAF Cleaner and disconnect your Neg. Battery Cable for at least ten min. Start the car and let it idle with out touching it for ten minutes. This will cost you $7 and thirty minutes of your time and might solve your problem. You have to start some where.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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ill give that a try. also i forgot to mention the car from a cold state was reading about a 10 degree difference with the MAF.
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 02:00 PM
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do you have upgraded cams?
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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what was done to the car in the shop?

maybe they messed with your BISS screw
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Old Apr 1, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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From: The Sticks
Originally Posted by chaotichoax
what was done to the car in the shop?

maybe they messed with your BISS screw
The more information the better. You can leave off what you had for breakfast.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by metalsaber
The more information the better. You can leave off what you had for breakfast.
haha you sure you dont want to know what i had for breakfast??? jk lol.

ok like a month ago i was driving my car and came to a red light and it just randomly shut off on me. after that it wouldnt stay idling when i would turn it on. id have to leave my foot on the gas for it to idle properly but as soon as i let it off it would shut off. my friend who is a mechanic looked at it and cleaned my throttle body, adjusted my idle, and put new spark plugs in because the old ones were fouled pretty bad somehow (they were only like 5 months old). the car ran fine for that day. the next day they went to start it up and it wouldnt stay idling. he took it for a spin around the block by the shop and after he got back it would start idling on its own. when my car is idling its fluxuating so much. it wont idle at the proper 850 until its been driven for like forever and the car is completely warmed up. its constantly jumping anywhere from 500-770. i watch the turbo timer and the number never stays the same and it never seems to get up past 800. i went to start it up this morning and usually it jumps up to like 1400 rpms until it warms up and slowly works its way down, well it started at like 700 and dropped to about 550-560 and kept fluxuating right there from anywhere to 400-600. after you drive it for a few minutes it seems to be fine but once you let it sit for a while and it cools down it starts to do this crap.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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Is the check engine light on? If yes, get is scaned and post the codes.

Do you have a boost gauge? If yes, what does your vacuum read?

What are the mods on your car?
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 08:24 AM
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my check engine light did come on last night when me and my girlfriend were coming home from getting ice cream.

I have the boost gauge that came with the car and it does read the vaccum on it. i dont know exactly what it reads but I can tell you when i get home.

as far as mods go the car has injen intake with upper ic piping, APS bov, invidia exhaust manifold, invidia o2 housing, perrin hi flo cat, hks carbon ti exhaust.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 12:46 PM
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See what vacuum the guage reads and since you have a CEL, go get it scanned at autozone for free.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 07:42 PM
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loose piping/connections can cause bad idle I have had my BOV blow off it's hose and car would not run right. Is it only idle that is bad?
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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From: L.A.
When my MAF started to go, my engine would load up and then I had to hold the throttle open to keep it from stalling. I then thew a P0103 code. The funny thing is that my car ran fine for about a month and then it did it again. I then replaced my MAF with another used one from a friend and the car ran fine for about another month and then I threw another P0103 code and the car ran like crap again. I played around with the MAF plug and got it to run again, but only for a couple of days. I borrowed another MAF which was working perfectly on another Evo and I had the same problem. I ended up having to solder in another MAF plug that I bought from a member here on Evom and my car has been running great so far for almost 3 months now. So I ended up having a bad MAF and a bad connecting MAF plug.
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